#3 smooth plane

[pop-pop]

Already have a #3 with a corrugated sole but bought another today anyway.

After all, having more planes increases the odds of picking up one that is sharp.

 

[Oka]

Yeah that is way easier than sharpening them.......

I have not found many corrugated planes that work well. The ones I have took alot of effort to get set up maybe you have the secret to tuning them up.

 

[pop-pop]

Just went out and looked at it. I did add a PVM iron (and it needs sharpening).

Used layout dye when flattening the sole and liked the look of the dye left in the grooves.

 

[tvrgeek]

Hmmm. Everyone has different experiences. I found #3 to be too small to hold and, well pretty useless. My #4 ( type 18 I think) is my go-to smoother. I have had smooth soles, and even a WoodRiver, ( I keep trying to like, though not so far) but the one I grab is the old corrugated. HOCK iron of course. I have been tempted to try the REED yoke and adjuster mod for even tighter adjustment.

As I fell in love with my antique wood jointer, I am almost afraid to try a wood smoother. I think precision adjustment is more important on a smoother, so sticking iron. I am still trying to decide how heavy my adjustment hammer needs to be.

Picked up a compass plane as I could have used it on a project last year. I wonder if I will do another that needs it or if rasp and scraper as I did is really just as good. 100 ways to do things. 99 of them work. Pick one.

 

[pop-pop]

As I fell in love with my antique wood jointer, I am almost afraid to try a wood smoother. I think precision adjustment is more important on a smoother, so sticking iron.

Have you tried a transitional yet? Wooden sole plus fine adjustment.
My only transitional is a jack but I like the feel of it.

 

[tvrgeek]

Tempted. Yes, tempted. Guess I'll look at next years picnic.

 

[Jack A.]

Jim (@creasman) had what appeared to be a transitional in the 5-6 size range for sale at this year's picnic. Maybe it's still for sale?

 

[creasman]

It's still for sale. I'm asking $30. PM me if interested. I was using this up until getting a second #3. I like the feel of a tote better than none.

I now have a #3 and #3c. The latter is a family hand-me-down. It has a fairly open mouth and is used for rough planing (think scrub plane). The standard #3 was acquired more recently and has a narrow throat with a very sharp iron.

 

[Graywolf]

That’s a great price on the transitional plane.

 

[mpeele]

Already have a #3 with a corrugated sole but bought another today anyway.

After all, having more planes increases the odds of picking up one that is sharp.

My #3C and #65 block planes are I use the most. The older I get the better the #3C works for me.

 

[tvrgeek]

I should make a wood smoother. Kind of one of the hand woodworkers right of passage, like one's first mallet.

 

[pop-pop]

I encourage that.
Here is my first traditional wooden plane. A coffin smoother made in 2008 with Bill Anderson teaching. Later I added a tapered iron.

Recently found this smoother that I started but never finished.

 

[pop-pop]

This wide mouth was probably why I put this project aside some years ago.

Looks like about a 1/4” of bed padding will be needed for a proper mouth.

I’ll start another thread when I get to this project once again.

 

[danmart77]

Mike have you read any of James Krenov's books? In one of them he details building a wooden plane for better surface results and NO Sanding.

A Life in Cabinetmaking – The Krenov Archive

thekrenovarchive.org

 

[pop-pop]

The very first wooden plane that I made was a Krenov style. I disliked the Krenov wedge and crossbar design and since have only made traditional wedges. Others are OK with that wedge.