A stanley #8 will get it smooth.
A stanley #8 will get it smooth.
How about an epoxy/sawdust mixture?
I've done this with 5 min epoxy and I think it's darkens too much for this application. I think my buddy is going to use osmo.
That isn't snipe and you probably couldn't close that gap with 50 more clamps.
How long is that crack? I can send you some information about how to fill it with epoxy.
That is, or was, snipe.
The snipe was on the top/bottom of the board coming out of the planer. The board was then rotated 90 degrees before gluing, so the snipe rotated with the board and is now between the two boards being glued together.
Thanks Mark. It still looks like a crack to me even though it's snipe rotated 90 degrees.
I hate having to cut off and discard 3-4" from each end of an expensive blank.
Yeah, it does. I have seen it so many times on my own projects that I have gotten into the habit of sanding, scraping or hand planing each board before glue up to try to eliminate that gap. I hate having to cut off and discard 3-4" from each end of an expensive blank.
I think water will dissolve hide glue.
I'm going to need some suggestions on hiding small gaps. I was originally told this counter would be 42 inches, so I rough cut everything to 4 ft to give enough room to scribe and cut off any snipe. After I cut and milled everything, I'm told "oops I mean 46-47". So I need to fill small gaps where there's snipe. I was thinking maybe epoxy putty?