Big Glue Ups

Oka

Oka
Corporate Member
I usually glue up 12" wide. I use a board on top and a ratchet strap to hold everything flat.

Then I will run through the planer to make flat and true, then glue the sections together.

One other thing Titebond 3 is waterproof, that is the darker colored one. The Titebond 2 is not waterproof. That is the yellowish one. Per the manufacturer, not to be used for outdoor application
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
That isn't snipe and you probably couldn't close that gap with 50 more clamps.

How long is that crack? I can send you some information about how to fill it with epoxy.
That is, or was, snipe.
The snipe was on the top/bottom of the board coming out of the planer. The board was then rotated 90 degrees before gluing, so the snipe rotated with the board and is now between the two boards being glued together.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
That is, or was, snipe.
The snipe was on the top/bottom of the board coming out of the planer. The board was then rotated 90 degrees before gluing, so the snipe rotated with the board and is now between the two boards being glued together.
Thanks Mark. It still looks like a crack to me even though it's snipe rotated 90 degrees.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks Mark. It still looks like a crack to me even though it's snipe rotated 90 degrees.
Yeah, it does. I have seen it so many times on my own projects that I have gotten into the habit of sanding, scraping or hand planing each board before glue up to try to eliminate that gap. I hate having to cut off and discard 3-4" from each end of an expensive blank.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
That's a good article. I have tried some of these techniques, when I remember, with varying levels of success.

I don't get a lot of snipe from my planer when it is properly set up. I mostly seems easier to just remove the small amount after planing.
 

Sourwould

Taylor
User
Yeah, it does. I have seen it so many times on my own projects that I have gotten into the habit of sanding, scraping or hand planing each board before glue up to try to eliminate that gap. I hate having to cut off and discard 3-4" from each end of an expensive blank.
This is interesting to me. I have the opposite approach, since my labor is always so much more than my material.
 

Oka

Oka
Corporate Member
FIrst mask off the area to be worked then use a sliver of wood with black super glue to hold it, then get worked in and then use super glue accelerator

I think water will dissolve hide glue.

I'm going to need some suggestions on hiding small gaps. I was originally told this counter would be 42 inches, so I rough cut everything to 4 ft to give enough room to scribe and cut off any snipe. After I cut and milled everything, I'm told "oops I mean 46-47". So I need to fill small gaps where there's snipe. I was thinking maybe epoxy putty?
 
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Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
Starbond CA glues may be an alternative to epoxy if the cracks/snipe aren't too wide. I've usually used West Systems epoxy but in this case the CA glue may be better for gap filling the cracks.



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