Bandsaw drift

Mrfixit71

Board of Directors, Secretary
Rich
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have a Grizzly 17" that's about 10 years old and doesn't have all rollers for guides. It's set up according to Snodgrass and I don't have any drift once I get the blade centered, which sometimes takes some test cuts and tweaking. I've switched to with the Woodcraft blades and am very happy with them. I call in the morning and the blades usually arrive the next day.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
I have recently RE-setup my Grizzly 17" bandsaw and made sure its on the highest speed, but no matter what type of wood I have it seems to drift AND burn the sides of the wood. anywhere from .5 inch and up to 2" causes this same drift - which always seems to be to the inside. I watch videos on youtube of people just plowing through wood with little to no effort and making straight and curved turns without much effort... this is frustrating.

I have checked the blade is centered on wheels, guides are within .004ish of the blade on all sides, blade is square to table from front to back and side to side. Its a standard blade from Grizzly and I havent had a chance to buy a NEW one yet.

Any ideas of what I should be checking on to fix this problem?
I have the same saw, nothing wrong with it, a great machine.

The blade is everything.

I have been around the block with just about all the blades in the market, from $10 to +$200 blades.

The only thing I use today is Lenox Diemaster II. They are affordable, seem to last forever and do everything extremely well.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
The only thing I use today is Lenox Diemaster II. They are affordable, seem to last forever and do everything extremely well.
The blade is 131.5" l, 6 tip. About $55 for a Lenox Diemaster II. That seems really affordable. Am I wrong? Just curious
 

zdorsch

Zach
Senior User
Willem,

Which diemaster II?

I’ve heard a lot of folks mention that brand, but not specs. For example, I can get a 1/2” blade in thicknesses of .20, .25 or .35 with various hook angles and (I would order a 1/2” for my 14” bandsaw, but realize the 17” saws probably handle wider and possibly thicker blade)

My basic understanding is that we want a lower tpi, like 4 or less, but is it better with wood to use a thinner gauge blade or does this depend on the saw; eg larger saw can handle a thicker blade similarly to handling a wider blade).

Edit: I also wonder if the wood craft guy is using die master II coilstock since he carries Lennox? Anyone know?
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Willem,

Which diemaster II?

I’ve heard a lot of folks mention that brand, but not specs. For example, I can get a 1/2” blade in thicknesses of .20, .25 or .35 with various hook angles and (I would order a 1/2” for my 14” bandsaw, but realize the 17” saws probably handle wider and possibly thicker blade)

My basic understanding is that we want a lower tpi, like 4 or less, but is it better with wood to use a thinner gauge blade or does this depend on the saw; eg larger saw can handle a thicker blade similarly to handling a wider blade).

Edit: I also wonder if the wood craft guy is using die master II coilstock since he carries Lennox? Anyone know?
Due to wheel diameter on the 17” Grizz it is a bit of a limitation on blade thickness, you can’t go above 0.025” otherwise the blade life will end with stress cracking. Unfortunately that limits you to narrower blades.

I use Lenox Diemaster 2, 10’,11 1/2” long 1/2” wide 0.025” thick and tooth set is 4S.

It’s been a while I must have that blade in the saw for at least 4 years now, with two spares still unopened in their boxes. It has done a lot of work from resawing 12” high to cutting profiles etc.

I purchased mine online from bandsawbladesdirect.com but your cheapest source is Lowe’s if you can find someone smart enough to order it for you.

I also have 3/8” and 1/4” for small radius cutting but have not used them for years.

For cutting logs I use a cheap blade.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Get the fence adjusted for drift and see what happens. That said, the blades that come with a bandsaw are the cheapest, so the first thing is get a good quality blade on the machine.

Drift is always a given with a bandsaw. I can be adjusted out follow your manual for adjusting the fence to drift. Once you get that dialed in, very important: don't adjust the tracking or blade tension, as both with change the drift. And be sure you tension the blade up. The tension guides on bandsaws are usually too low. For a 1/2" blade you will probably be tensioned above 3/4 on the guide.

I'm not surprised about the video. Snodgrass is a polished presenter, and if you can duplicate it on your saw, great. I couldn't get it dialed in on either of my saws. I think if you have a Powermatic, it will probably work.

To me, drift is no big deal but Snodgrass I think lots of guys watch his video and believe their saw isn't working right.

I would also mention, you can also align the table itself to the drift. This is important if you plane on using the miter slot. Michael Fortune has a video on this.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Just saying, but for those who like their Woodslicer blades, in the headboard pic below one veneer cut of Pau Amarello with a brand new 3/4” Woodslicer and the blade was dull. Also, the blade could not handle 3/32” 8” wide cut, so both the first slice of veneer and the new blade was scrap.

Proceeded to cut ten slices with my little 1/2” Lenox blade and four years later after a whole lot of work, that blade is still doing great.

188975
 

Pop Golden

Pop
Corporate Member
I have a old (USA made) Delta 14 inch. It has the Delta fence. Use a new "SHARP" blade. That can make or break your cut . I get my blades from Farris Belt & Saw here in Charlotte. Sandy who makes the blades makes them to order. Very good quality. If they break she will reweld them.

Pop
 

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