Bandsaw Considerations

[SabertoothBunny]

Alrighty, I am looking to get a larger bandsaw. I am currently operating with a 10" WEN bandsaw. The WEN has a resaw capacity of 6" with a max 1/2" blade and is a 1/2 HP motor. Does a great job for small stuff that is not terribly dense but being a small saw with limited power it does have obvious limitations. I "need" more biggerer and betterer. I want the ability to cut larger wood pieces on the bandsaw, resaw wood and have better success with cutting bowl blanks and items like that.

SO I have been doing some research and reading, looks like 14-18" is the area I am evolving too. I am not hung up on brand preference and frankly don't care all that much about brand specifically, just want a quality tool that will do all I need it too and last many, many moons. So here is the cut list (all have a minimum 12" resaw capacity):

Rikon 10-326, 14"
- 3/4" blade max
- 1 3/4 HP
- $1499

Laguna 14-12
- 3/4" blade max
- 1 3/4 HP
- $1,599

Laguna 14bx
- 3/4" blade max
- 2 1/2 HP
- $1,999

Grizzly G0555XH
- 3/4" blade max
- 1 3/4 HP
- $1,595

Grizzly G0817
- 3/4" blade max
- 2 HP
- $1950

This list may seem a little long but trust me, it could be a lot longer. I know Grizzly has had some good tools historically but it seems like they have fallen behind in recent years in the power tools market. Of this list, I am leaning towards the Rikon. It is an older model that has been out for a while but has had consistent and solid reviews since its release. The next one is the Laguna 14vx because of the HP but I'm not sure on the type of outlet plug that requires. The $1999 is the extreme max price point I am looking at.

Regardless of what saw I go with I need to upgrade the breaker from a 10amp to a 20amp. My question with that is should that break be a single pole or double pole? Or does that depend on a 1 3/4HP vs a 2 1/2JHP saw?

So basically I am just seeking input from all you more experienced guys. This is not a small purchase and I approaching it cautiously because its a lot of money. So let me know your thoughts and insight into this subject.

 

[Oka]

Also look at the Harvey bandsaw. They used to manufacture for Laguna, the the design is similar.

But 1800 bucks and you get a saw with 3 hp motor. They always fluctuate their pricing so it can price down to 15-1600 bucks if you are patient.

3HP Bandsaw

 

[PeteM]

Let me know if you decide to sell your 10" WEN.
I'd definitely be interested!

 

[drw]

I have had the Rikon 10-325 for about 12 years and it has proven to be very serviceable; I have no complaints. Since this machine is the only bandsaw that I have every owned, I can't compare it to other machines, but should it crap out tomorrow I would seriously consider buying another. However, as you are doing I would look around...there could well be better machines for the money). That said, my experience with Rikon has been positive.

 

[Echd]

I have a 1412 and am generally happy with it. I don't think the rikon 326 is inferior; I imagine the biggest practical difference is ceramic guides vs carter style.

The rikon also has storage built into the base, a minor consideration but a consideration nonetheless.

If I was wired for 220 or could do so easily i would buy a higher power saw- you've already felt the pinch once with your lower power WEN so don't let it happen again- although honestly i feel a 1 3/4 bandsaw can probably meet most people's needs.

 

[RickR]

Another nod for Rikon. Not a heavy user but have had my 10-326 for 4 yrs and am mostly happy. I think the claim of 3/4 blade might be a bit optimistic. Never could get it to work well with one. I resaw with a 1/2 blade and find it suitable. Wish it had a blade brake.

 

[ssmith]

The standard disclaimer - you should consult an electrician before doing anything to your wiring because code requirements have to be met, but perhaps I can offer some insight.

One concern - the breaker and wire from it to the outlet have to be properly sized to accomodate the load, so you can't just change a 10A breaker to a 20A one without confirming the wire is adequate for 20A (typically 12GA or larger). Also, it's odd that you have a 10A breaker - most 115V circuits are either 15A or 20A so you may want to confirm what it is.

In residential wiring, all 115V circuits are fed from a single pole breaker. All 230V circuits are fed from a double pole breaker. All the saws you mentioned except #3 will operate from either 115V or 230V.

Saws 1, 2, and 4 on your list seem to be switchable to 115 or 230. You could run any of them on a 115V, 15A circuit. The problem is, you could get breaker trips when fully loading the saw, because they all pull nearly 15A under full load. If you DO have a proper 115V, 20A circuit, these 3 saws should be fine on it.

Saw #3 on your list (Laguna 14bx) can be bought with two motor configurations, but the one you mentioned (the 2 1/2 HP version) requires a 220V feed.

Saw #5 on your list (Grizzly G0817) is also switchable between 115V and 230V, but the 115V setting would require a 20A circuit because it pulls 19A under full load. Again, that's really close to what the circuit can carry, so you may get nusiance breaker trips when you push the saw hard.

Hopefully the above makes sense. The solution that covers all saws is to install a 220V, 20A circuit, and switch whatever saw you choose over to 220V operation. If you don't want to do that, you'd need to drop saw #3 from your list and go with a 115V, 20A feed.

 

[tvrgeek]

Welcome to come look at my C-14 Harvey. Now, it is a 220V, 3 HP 14 inch. I learned to buy right or buy again and again, and again. Much cheaper.
I liked the Rikons and Lagunas, but for the total package, went Harvey.

 

[cobraguy]

I went through this same process last year. I settled on the 14bx, mainly because of it being a little beefier and available in 220. I also like the layout and table height of the Laguna best. Which brings up another consideration, ergonomics. Most of the saws listed are very similar and I believe will perform alike as well. Try to get some hands-on with as many as you can to make sure you like the way things are laid out and how the controls/fences/etc work. There are differences. Klingspor has the 10-326 and 14/12 on display for a side by side comparison or take Scott and some other members up on getting some touchy feely.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I recommend larger than 14”. I have an 18” and wish I had room for a 36”. This would allow more flexibility for longer more complex cuts. The other major advantage of a size larger than 14” is the table is lower to the floor at table saw and bench height making it more comfortable to use. In addition, the larger table is provides nore stability for work while cutting. As with anything else, the larger, the more it costs, it is more difficult to move and it will have a larger motor requiring 220v. Also go with the largest motor possible. You will not regret it

 

[JimD]

I bought a Jet jwbs 14 sfx. It is a steel frame bandsaw with 13 inch resaw capacity and a 1 3/4 hp motor. I've had it a couple years. It works on a 20A 120V circuit like my other power tools. I've resawn cherry and poplar up to about 8 inch thickness so far entirely satisfactorily. I tried a 1/2 blade first but quickly switched to a 3/4 and I like that better. It seems to track better. The upper blade guides are easy to adjust but the bottom ones are more challenging. But I rarely mess with them. I set them up initially and I don't think I've changed them, even with a blade change. My Jet came with a tall resaw fence which really helps. It has good dust collection. No complaints. I was looking at the Rikon and Laguana but I saw the Jet on sale for $1000 and bought it.

I think other people have said this but 20A 120V circuits use larger gauge wire than 15A 120V circuits. If your wire is big enough, it is as simple as swapping in a new breaker but that would be surprising. If your wire is 14 gauge as I suspect, it will mean you need a new circuit for any larger power tool. I have 2 20A 120v circuits in my shop and a 15A light circuit. Many here will say that isn't enough but it works for me. I use the second 20A for my "2hp" DC. The difficulty in adding a circuit is basically that you have to figure out a way to get the wire from your breaker box to where you need the power. I added the second 20A by taking out a strip of drywall in my car garage and waferboard in my shop garage to drill the holes and run the wire. It wasn't terrible but isn't super easy either. Many want 220V power and it is not any harder to run a circuit or two for that but the wire will cost a little more. Outlets cost more too. I think 120V tools work fine but a 3 hp motor certainly has more power than a 1 3/4 hp motor.

If you have the space, I would keep the Wen and keep a smaller blade in it. I have 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 blades for my Jet but I do not like changing them so the 3/4 pretty much lives in the saw.

 

[Echd]

I think Jim has a good point. How many of us impress an inappropriate bandsaw blade into resaw duty because we really don't want to change the blade? I know I do sometimes.

 

[junquecol]

Don't forget the used market. There are millions of used 14" band saws out there. Seems everybody wants biger, newer saws, so used market is, at times flooded. Best thing about buying used, is there is no "supply chain" issues.

 

[teesquare]

Rikon.
Why? Warranty - that is meaningful. If you buy a Laguna product - may you also have a rosary, a yarmulke, and pictures of Laguna execs in compromising situations. They have the worst reputation for customer service of any machinery company. Don't take my word - Google it. ( And before anyone feels the need to waste electrons with response like:" I have always had good service..." - fall down on your knees and thank the Lord above that you have a guardian work working angel....you are the lucky ones )

Now -
Ig you want to buy once - Buy the Rikon 10-347. 18 inch. FOUR H.P.. Tool-less adjustments of ball bearing guides. Dual suction ports for duct collection. Really beefy frame. Very good fence. Find your best price online - and then speak to someone at Klingspor - they often price match.

 

[Rwe2156]

I have a Rikon 18" (10-345). Decent saw. Replaced the bearings once. Replaced the crappy stock fence with a Kreg. Came with a 2HP motor which died after about 12 years. Replaced with a 3HP all that was available - can't tell the difference. 4HP seems like overkill to me, not worth the electric req's.

IMO the most important factor for resawing is not the brand, its the blade. Carbide is really the only way to go if you're either doing it a lot or just want the best, longest lasting blade.

Don't get rid of your small bandsaw. I think its nice to have a smaller bandsaw for those curvy cuts or quick cutoffs.

 

[teesquare]

I have a Rikon 18" (10-345). Decent saw. Replaced the bearings once. Replaced the crappy stock fence with a Kreg. Came with a 2HP motor which died after about 12 years. Replaced with a 3HP all that was available - can't tell the difference. 4HP seems like overkill to me, not worth the electric req's.

IMO the most important factor for resawing is not the brand, its the blade. Carbide is really the only way to go if you're either doing it a lot or just want the best, longest lasting blade.

Don't get rid of your small bandsaw. I think its nice to have a smaller bandsaw for those curvy cuts or quick cutoffs.

I have been thinking about a carbide blade…. But then I think about the nails, bullets, and other metal hardware that I seem magnetic to

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I have been thinking about a carbide blade…. But then I think about the nails, bullets, and other metal hardware that I seem magnetic to

When in doubt, use a cheap blade.
I have never experienced an issue with lumber from Hardwood store, Wall lumber and other higher end suppliers. Perhaps i am just lucky?

 

[JNCarr]

I have a Laguna 14/Twelve. Don't do it. The table had to be relapped and the ceramic guides are a nightmare when changing blades. 3 minutes to change the blade and 20 to dial in the guides.

 

[teesquare]

When in doubt, use a cheap blade.
I have never experienced an issue with lumber from Hardwood store, Wall lumber and other higher end suppliers. Perhaps i am just lucky?

I uses Lennox bi-metal blades. Lucky to have a sharpening service that makes great blades - at 1/2 of what typical prices are at woodworking stores. But - my saw usage is primarily cutting large billets and blanks from wood I harvest, so my risks are probably much higher than most.
But I still love the idea of the carbide saw blades.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

Let me know if you decide to sell your 10" WEN.
I'd definitely be interested!

I think am keeping the WEN at this point, it is a great tools honestly. It actually is higher rated than most of the name brands in the 10" category. That saw is ideal for slicing up small stuff and doesn't have a large and it really wasn't too much money. A better saw at a lower price than name brand this time.