Any experience w/ epoxy garage floor coating?

[HMH]

Hey folks,

Does anyone have any experience, good or bad, w/ the DIY type epoxy garage floor coating systems?

I'm "re-organizing" my garage workshop to provide more storage/ efficiency, which will include re-building my main workbench. Since the bench is pretty much the only thing that is stationary, I figure now would be a good time to address the floor situation.

The concrete is roughly 3 yrs old, no cracks, but a few random stains;oil, (I change my own), finish, etc.

The garage will still pull "garage duty" from time to time, so I need a fairly utilitarian finish, if in fact I do anything at all. While I have everything mobile, dismantled, this just seems like a cheap & easy way to freshen up the place.

 

[mike_wood]

I put down the epoxy paint sold at Lowe's (Rustoleum?). Went down ok and looks ok. I did not use the glitter pieces included - just didn't see the point. Followed all the instructions that came with it and it all worked out. Generally I am satisfied. If I don't wipe up glue (wood glue) it scrapes up ok but leaves a mark. If I drag a piece of plywood across it there is a mark.

When I first considered what to do for a floor covering I thought seriously about the industrial 1'X1' (vinyl?) tiles that used to be prevalent in commercial settings. They seem to take a lot of abuse and can be replaced if needed. Also, they would provide a bit more cushioning. I still may do it.

All in all the paint worked out fine. Don't see any reason not to use it.

 

[skysharks]

Hey Heath
I have put down several coatings on garage floors.
First off the floor will definitely need to be thoroughly clean, concentrate on the oil spill spots.
I have used the 2 part epoxy from lowes.
Mix it up good and roll your self out of the building. Be sure not to paint your self into corner hahahaha.
as you go you can add the paint chips to the wet areas to add a semi non slip surface to it.
HTH

MAC

 

[Phil S]

I have had both good and bad experiences. Wanting to brighten my shop floor I bought the Big Box product - latex based two part epoxy and spent too long prepping and painting the floor, waited two days before moving everything back in place. The coating was so poor that I could scrape it off by dragging a piece of wood across it. In disgust I finally removed it all with a wide razor.
Then I bought Duron Industrial epoxy floor coating. It went on easy, was ready to move equipment across within 24 hrs and still looks good after two years. Well worth the price.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I used Rustoleum epoxy gray. I put it down on a new concrete floor and added the sprinkles to make it look good. I cleaned the floor first using the stuff provided except in one little corner. I have one piece of advice. Clean everywhere! That one little corner started flaking paint within a few weeks and now I have big sections missing. Everywhere I cleaned is still looking good after 10 years.

Wipe up the glue quickly. Even wood glue, once it dries, is a boogar to get off without pulling up the paint.

 

[Bernhard]

Done it in my workshop. Couple of pointers:

• Don't use the 'house brand', use Rustoleum INDUSTRIAL or equivalent. The other stuff is more of a paint than a surface, will scratch easily , etc.
• Mix in Shark Grip or equivalent to make it non-slip. Epoxy is very slick, especially when wet. The Sharks Grip (Sherwin Williams brand) will give enough traction, but will not affect cleanup or sweeping. The flakes in cluded in some products actually do not do much for traction. Thedo howver hide imperfection well. I just think the flakes are ugly. BTW do NOT use sand for traction: It will settle in the can or on the floor due to its weight. The stuff from Sherwin Williams will stay suspended.
• Get a bottle of xylene in case you spill some so you can clean up.
• Use a roller to apply, but don't roll to much.
• large cracks/gapd need to be filled before..otherwise you will use the epoxy as an expensive gap filler.
• Make sure your concrete is fully cured and dry. If there is no vapor barrier below, the epoxy will eventually lift off. Easy way to test: tape a a piece of plastic (1x1ft) on floor for a couple of days, if there is no condensation you are ok.
• Since your floor is a couple of years old, may want to use a primer. BUT be sure the primer is compatible with the final product (I did run out of primer/bonding agent and used a different primer in one area>>> epoxy did not bond and flaked off)
• May want to etch your concrete to assure good adhesion
• Get a respirator with a charcoal filter: the epoxy stinks and is full of organic solvents (toluene, xylenes, etc)
• Amount of coverage listed on the container was much more than my yield. You may want to do 1/2 at a time.
• Everything used in the application will need to be thrown away, there is no good way to clean up.
• be careful choosing color: too dark will make your workshop look like a dungeon, I have mine in a light gray.

BUT in the end it does look good and cleanup is a breeze.

Good luck,
Bernhard

 

[WoodWrangler]

Did it about 2 weeks ago at my new house. Used the same stuff when I lived in Charlotte too. It is super easy to apply and very durable. I had a garage up there that was "drenched" in oil. I used a pressure washer on it along with a degreaser, then etched with a light acid. One thing I noticed this time around was that they included the etch with the kit (a nice bonus). I also did the clear coating on my new garage ... and it looks awesome.

 

[HMH]

Thanks for the input guys,

Looks like that may be the way to go. It'll be a few weeks before I actually get moving on this, but I'll be sure to post pics & a review of the project.

Just to recap, everyone is satisfied w/ the results from the Rustoleum product? Phil, I'll do some research into where I can find the Duro product & compare the prices.

How about coverage? Pretty close to advertised, or assume 75%?

Thanks again.

 

[Douglas Robinson]

I used the Rustoleum product about 4 years ago. Still loks good. I agree with what has been posted and will add: Apply it in 3 x 3 ft sections and I agree with Mike skip the glitter. I applied it and it makes find a dropped screw or nut harder.

 

[WoodWrangler]

To each a different opinion ... but I'd use the "glitter" (not really glitter, just small pieces of plastic or something). I think it gives it a better look and disguises any variance.

The instructions say apply in a 4ftx4ft section, but at the same time you need to get the product down relatively quickly to get the best results. Therefore, I ignored those rules and did 6ftx6ft sections and it worked out fine (even in 90+ degree weather).

As for the coating ... I'd say the estimate is dead on for what the box says. 2 1/2 car garage kit covers it about exactly ... both times I've used it.

However, the clear coat was a different story. It is 1 gallon for a 2 1/2 car garage kit ... and I started out too heavy then ran out at the end. I made it work, but it is obviously thinner on one side of my shop than the other. Oh well.

I did put the "grit" in the clear coat (it comes with it) to give it some traction and make it less slippery (I would not even call it slippery now, just glossy with grit)

 

[jhreed]

To each a different opinion ... but I'd use the "glitter" (not really glitter, just small pieces of plastic or something). I think it gives it a better look and disguises any variance.

The instructions say apply in a 4ftx4ft section, but at the same time you need to get the product down relatively quickly to get the best results. Therefore, I ignored those rules and did 6ftx6ft sections and it worked out fine (even in 90+ degree weather).

As for the coating ... I'd say the estimate is dead on for what the box says. 2 1/2 car garage kit covers it about exactly ... both times I've used it.

However, the clear coat was a different story. It is 1 gallon for a 2 1/2 car garage kit ... and I started out too heavy then ran out at the end. I made it work, but it is obviously thinner on one side of my shop than the other. Oh well.

I did put the "grit" in the clear coat (it comes with it) to give it some traction and make it less slippery (I would not even call it slippery now, just glossy with grit)

OK Jeremy, you got me all interested but did not provide the specifics of brand, model, part number etc for the base coat or clear coat. Please give it up.
James

 

[dlrion]

We just got done doing this to the Hangar floors where we work on the Jets at work...


We used some industrial Rustoleum knock off... I don't have any suggestions except one thing.

Not only do you have to clean the floors, but where we sanded down into the concrete with this big ol rental machine you can tell a HUGE difference in how well the paint took. There was one spot in the hangar where we keep our tools where we did not do this. The paint is already scratching and peeling up off the floor. I would DEFINITELY take the time to rent this sanding machine and SAND THE FLOORS!

Dan

 

[WoodWrangler]

OK Jeremy, you got me all interested but did not provide the specifics of brand, model, part number etc for the base coat or clear coat. Please give it up.
James

Sorry 'bout that :gar-La;

I used the Rustoleum product both times I've done this.

Lowes also has a newer product that is supposedly more durable, but also costs about twice as much. Based on my experience, I decided the extra durability may be there, but I can't imagine what it would offer me in my hobby shop ... so I stuck with Rustoleum. The clear cost is a Rustoleum product too and is right next to the kits at the BORGs.

 

[BobcatBob]

I got my epoxy paint at Sherwin Williams and have been very pleased with it. My floor was new without a sealer on it. If water beads up on your floor, then it probably has a sealer sprayed on the concrete when they pored it and that could cause a problem with the epoxy sticking over time. I also suggest you acid wash the floor to etch it. I used the flakes on mine because I liked the look, but the choice is yours. I also put a clear coat on top of the epoxy. It's been 3 years and and it still looks great, except for all the sawdust.

View image in gallery​

View image in gallery​

 

[zapdafish]

I got a box of borg stuff when my house was first built and ended up never using it. Instructions said to wait x months for fairly fresh concrete and by the time it was up, it was too cold, and then I had bought some tools I no longer wanted to move out of the garage to apply it, :eusa_doh:

If anyone wants it, they can have it. It was bought in 2004. I don't remember the brand but can look it up when I get home.

 

[HMH]

Well, that'll work! PM sent!ccasion1

 

[AviOren]

I think that if the floor is concrete then a good cleaning and etching are the keys. I had a subcontractor apply the Home Depot stuff on the concrete floor in my basement's woodshop without the etching. Well, the next day it all flaked up andI really had a rough time scraping it all off. Next time I'll look for a proven experienced worker to do it.

 

[Rob]

You need help, let me know. I've never done it, I'm curious. I've thought about doing it, but figured it wouldn't hold up to the welding I do. Maybe I should do the back of the shop.

 

[JackLeg]

You WON'T regret sealing that floor. It sure makes clean up easier! :wsmile:

 

[jerrye]

Having sold commercial epoxy coatings before I can say that there is a big difference between epoxy paint & epoxy coating. Commercial coatings are always a 2 part mix, and will cost $90 per gallon & up. I had a customer that put down our 100% solids product in a garage bay and the only time he ever had it chip was when he dropped a ring gear from the rear end of a 2 ton truck off the 3' high workbench onto the floor. Good and HARD stuff. Expensive, but if done right you only do it once.

Prep is the key. Degrease until you see no more oil, and then degrease at least once more. Rinse to neutralize, then acid etch. Rinse again to neutralize. Once dry you are ready to coat.

If I had a concrete floor commercial 2 part epoxy is all I would use.

MTCW, YMMV