Advice for a desktop?

[donaldball]

I recently got a GeekDesk base; it's a desk base that raises from a sitting desk to a standing desk. I now need to build a desktop for it, and could use some advice. I'm looking to build a desktop maybe 5'x3', with a raised monitor shelf running along the back.

First, what material should I use? A hardwood plywood seems reasonable, perhaps birch? If I used it, what could I do to make the edges more attractive? If I didn't want to use plywood, it seems like I'd need to use a planar and joiner to prepare a few smaller solid hardwood pieces, then glue or join them with biscuits or pegs or something?

Second, if I wanted to give the desktop a non-rectangular shape, perhaps to fit into a corner, or simply by rounding the corners, what tools might I use? I've only got the basics now: circular saw, miter saw, crappy little jigsaw, and an assortment of basic hand tools.

Thirdly, what finishing options might I consider? I used oil-based polyurethane on a kitchen shelf recently and it looks fairly nice, but cleanup was a real pain in the butt, and I don't really care for working with volatile organic compounds. Are water-based polyurethanes worth anything?

Thanks for any tips.

 

[Canuck]

Donald,

Any hardwood plywood would work ok (preferably 3/4" ply). If you are purchasing your plywood from the local home center, I would strongly suggest looking at the oak plywood by Columbia Forest Products (Purebond) at your Home Depot.

You can use a jig saw to round corners of your top. Just try and keep the edge square (to the top) and smooth. You can then edge band with an iron-on veneer sold for this purpose. (Ideally, if you can get access to a planer/jointer, hardwood strips would be better and take more abuse.)

Polycrylic by Minwax is a pretty good water based finish - low odor and dries pretty fast and hard.

Wayne

 

[donaldball]

Thanks for the advice, Canuck.

I have taken the basic operations class on the planar and jointer at TechShop RDU, so I could try to do the solid hardwood strips option there. If I did that, how would you suggest I join the pieces? Would the jigsaw still be the appropriate option for rounding the corners? And would the wood available at the big box stores be appropriate, or would I be better served to go elsewhere?

 

[Canuck]

Thanks for the advice, Canuck.

I have taken the basic operations class on the planar and jointer at TechShop RDU, so I could try to do the solid hardwood strips option there. If I did that, how would you suggest I join the pieces? If you decide on solid wood banding, you will need to make sure the solid wood banging is ripped thin enough to navigate the rounded corner. (If the radius is too sharp, you may be better off using the iron on veneer). I generally just use Titebond II glue and plenty of masking tape to serve as clamps and just stick it to the edge. Make your banding about 1/16" wider that the thickness of your plywood and either sand it flush or again, use a router and flushtrim bit to level it to the top. Would the jigsaw still be the appropriate option for rounding the corners?If you have access to a hanheld router, I would rough cut the radius with your jigsaw, staying in the waste side of your line. Then make a template out of 1/4"mdf, install a top bearing pattern bit in you router, double stick tape your template to the corner and then router out the final curve. This would give you a nice smooth, square radius. And would the wood available at the big box stores be appropriate, or would I be better served to go elsewhere? The oak ply at Home Depot - as for the Purebond Columbia Forrest would be fine. For the solid hardwood, if that is the route you take, you can get better deals at places like the Hardwood Store of NC in Gibsonville or Anchor Hardwoods in Raleigh.

Describing this sounds quite complicated but it is not really that bad.

HTH

Wayne