Adirondack Chairs

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Splinter

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Dolan Brown
DavidF said:
Just a note of caution when using hardboard as a router template, especially with a smallish (1/2") bearing bit. If you happen to push too heavely on it, maybe to change direction, then the edge of the board will dimple and ruin the next pass - DAMHIKT!!:BangHead:

Best bet is MDF or maybe 1/4 ply -just a thought.

Have you had this problem with 1/4" Tempered Hardboard? I have used 1/4" Tempered Hardboard for several project templates and never had this problem. When I rough cut the wood I try to leave just a small (1/16" - 1/8") of excess to cut off with the spiral router bit.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Splinter -Yes it was the 1/4 tempered, however, it was being used on the top of large piece of padauk 3' x 18" x 1.5" so a lot of weight to move around and it was VERY easy to apply too much pressure to the bearing. I would imagin smaller pieces may not cause the same problem
 

Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
yellofins said:
Slinter,
Thanks for posting the pics of your chairs. They look great. I ordered the same plans a few days ago and am waiting for them. I need to build a few chairs and planned on going the hardboard pattern route also. I was planning on building the rockers also.
Did you find any problems with the plans I should look out for?
Ron

Ron, the only thing I think is wrong is on "Step #4: Seat Frame Assembly" they say use a 3/16" pilot hole and a 1/4" clearance hole. Rather big for a #10 screw. I bought the plan 2-3 years ago so they may have corrected this by now. Oh and the font size on the cutting list chart is kind of small but readable. Good luck.
 

JEM

New User
Matt - JEM Watercraft
Very cool.

One of these years I'm going to get to work on the Jake chairs. Although I like the looks of that rocker.
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Splinter said:
Have you had this problem with 1/4" Tempered Hardboard? I have used 1/4" Tempered Hardboard for several project templates and never had this problem. When I rough cut the wood I try to leave just a small (1/16" - 1/8") of excess to cut off with the spiral router bit.

I had problems with tempered hardboard templates deforming after heavy use. I finally made my chair templates out of 3/8" acrylic and made them into vacuum templates for easier use.
 

yellofins

Ron
Corporate Member
Steve D said:
I had problems with tempered hardboard templates deforming after heavy use. I finally made my chair templates out of 3/8" acrylic and made them into vacuum templates for easier use.
Steve, Thanks for the tip...I've got plenty of acrylic 3/8" and 1/2" lying around. Now I have a good use. When you made the vacuum templates did you use foam weatherstripping to make the plenum?

Ron
 

Bill Julson

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Great looking chairs! Going to try my hand at it one of these days. I have been making what I call a "deck chair" out of cypress and like working with it. I need to check out your supplier as I have been getting mine locally in Asheville: 4/4 X 8" X 14' & paying $2.70 a BF, with some knots! Steve Wall Lumber has it @ $2.40 bf, but gas will kill me.

The finish I have used for the past 2 years has been General Finishes "Outdoor Oil" that I get from Klingspor. It is a clear penetrating oil with mildewcide & UV and really like the stuff. Last year when we put up our new deck, I used the Outdoor Oil & Cabot semi-transparent stain, mixing 2 gal of OD Oil to 1 of the stain. The deck is holding up great so far & so are my chairs. Cabot has a clear penetrating oil also and is about $6 cheaper, so will be trying that out as soon as I run out of OD oil.

My 2 cents worth. Really like your chairs.

Bill Julson
 
T

toolferone

I built that same chair. The plans are good and the chair is very comfortable. I second the notion on the General Finishes Outdoor Oil. I also happen to know that Woodcaft carries it. (LOL)
 
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