The problem making both parts out of wood is strength and rigidity. By having a removable insert you are left with only a little crosswise throat plate framework at each end. There is not much beef lengthwise either. I believe that is why they were made from aluminum. The insert is dovetail shaped- wider on the bottom.
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The problem making both parts out of wood is strength and rigidity. By having a removable insert you are left with only a little crosswise throat plate framework at each end. There is not much beef lengthwise either. I believe that is why they were made from aluminum. The insert is dovetail shaped- wider on the bottom.
I could be totally off base here, but wouldn't a ZCI for a bevel cut be made and cut into the same way as one for a 90º cut. I wouldn't think that you would have any change in the opening with cut depth adjustments at the same bevel angle, except for length of the slot front to back. Just like a 90º insert. The front to back slot length wouldn't have any effect on the usefulness of the insert as the main purpose of the ZCI is in the side to side clearance.
Dave
Don't know about cabinet saws, but with my contractor type (Ridgid) I make the 45 (or other angle) insert the same as the 90: Just run the blade up through the blank. Works with both saw blades and dado blades. For saw blades I run them to full height. For dados, I just run them a little higher than I plan to cut, (mainly just as a time saver as I go a lot slower with a wide dado).
(Note: For the 10" blade on the ridgid you will still have to precut with a smaller blade if you haven't routed/dadoed a 1/4" slot in the bottom because the top of the 10" blade will not drop below the bottom of the insert).
Go
(Note: For the 10" blade on the ridgid you will still have to precut with a smaller blade if you haven't routed/dadoed a 1/4" slot in the bottom because the top of the 10" blade will not drop below the bottom of the insert).
Go
DaveO, for reasons owing to my inability to spatially visualize in 3 dimensions when rotation is a factor, I was thinking that the blade would rise in a purely plumb manner irrespective of the tilt of the blade. Thinking that was the case, I thought the blade would make cove molding out of the ZCI as it rose.
Just to make sure I was wrong and you wuz right, I went out and tilted the blade and then raised it. Sure 'nuff, it raises at the bevel angle, so you wuz right and I wuz wrong.
I had the hardest time visualizing how my bowl blank would be transformed from end grain to face grain until I actually cut it with the chainsaw, and even then was mystified until I bolted it up. I still can't rotate the darned blank in my mind without trouble. BTW, this is a known genetic defect, so I place all the blame on my ancestors, immediate and beyond. I can't hep it. It's like syldexia.
Just to make sure I was wrong and you wuz right, I went out and tilted the blade and then raised it. Sure 'nuff, it raises at the bevel angle, so you wuz right and I wuz wrong.
I had the hardest time visualizing how my bowl blank would be transformed from end grain to face grain until I actually cut it with the chainsaw, and even then was mystified until I bolted it up. I still can't rotate the darned blank in my mind without trouble. BTW, this is a known genetic defect, so I place all the blame on my ancestors, immediate and beyond. I can't hep it. It's like syldexia.
Zero clearance inserts can be made out of wood. This is one I have been using for years. It is made out of 1/4 in plywood and hardboard. The insert is cut at a 45 degree angle like a dovetail. See attached pictures with captions. The bracing on the bottom is half-inch plywood so it does not warp.
The URL below is for one of four pictures posted in my gallery.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=20281&ppuser=675
The URL below is for one of four pictures posted in my gallery.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=20281&ppuser=675
That will work! :icon_thum
M
McRabbet
Alan,
I'd be interested in one for my Grizzly G1023 series cabinet saw.
I'd be interested in one for my Grizzly G1023 series cabinet saw.
I also have a Delta contractor saw. It is about 5 years old and I have the same issue. The red metal insert will no longer fit in the opening...not even close. My top is also flat.
I do not have a Delta saw (Skil & Craftsman TS's ) but this has gone beyond weird
to downright spooky :dvamp. I hope that SOMEONE can solve this mystery.
I do not have a Delta saw (Skil & Craftsman TS's ) but this has gone beyond weird
Me TOO, Glenn!!! Since Susan has the same problem maybe everyone will not think I'm just crazy... or stupid.:5duh:
There is a thread on making one of these using a router table. (Yes aluminum works with carbide router bits.) I believe the thread is located in the "Shop Shots" over at Wood Central. Many years ago, Shop Notes did an article on making inserts using UHMW and hardboard. The cut out that goes all the way through, could easily be done on a Bridgeport. The channel for the replaceable insert could be roughed out with an end mill, and then the sides beveled with a dovetail bit in the router table. Somehow, the last time I went to salvage yard, I just happened to come home with some 1/2" 6011 aluminum. :eusa_thinBefore this thread dies- my brother (also a tinkerer :-D ) is adding stepper motors, gears, cog belts, computer interface, etc. etc. to convert his Bridgeport mill to a CNC mill.
One of the first things he is going to machine for me is a tablesaw throat plate; an aluminum throat plate that will accept removable wood inserts so you can have multiple, inexpensive, zero clearance inserts with the same plate, easily change the insert for different blades and angles, and easily make you own replacement wood inserts. It will likely look something like the Wood Dynamics insert pictured below that Norm used on the NYW. It is no longer available since Wood Dymanics folded a few years back.
I don't know if my brother would be interested in making more and selling them, and if so, what he would charge (I think the originals were a bit pricey at around $120 - $140).
I would like to know what kind of interest you guys might have in something like this?
I have a Jet contractor saw with a red metal insert, zero-clearance Jet componsit insert, and several wood inserts that I fashioned myself. I've never had a problem with them though, but your situation worries me.
Looks like most of the obvious possibilities have been covered, but here are a couple more to check:
Looks like most of the obvious possibilities have been covered, but here are a couple more to check:
- Is there anything inside the insert hole that feels or looks out of place or might prevent the insert from fitting?
- Can the insert be turned around and/or upside down to see if it fits - that would indicate that one end or side of the insert is out of shape.
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