Watco Danish Oil finish?

[ZachEakes]

Hi Guys,

I am building a 1942 Coast Guard Cutter and turning it into a yacht. http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/

We are building mahogany and sapele faced cabinets, and are curious to hear what you have to say about Watco Danish Oil finish for cabinet faces and tops. We'll have a mahogany plywood counter top, with a mahogany fiddle rail across the face.

The owners like the color the danish oil gives the mahogany, but I would like to hear how it holds up. Will it withstand a soda can sitting on it sweating, will a spilled glass of wine stain it permanently?

I'll take some pictures to share.

We have been talking about spraying a catalyzed polyurethane finish, or varnishing over epoxy... but as the complexity of the molding and trim increases, we are looking more towards oil finish. It has turned into a design that isn't suited for a hard finish, as the detail isn't easily maintainable, nor will it be able to be removed from the boat to spray, and later installed.

Thanks,

Zach

 

[bash]

Have you considered the Danish Oil with 2-3 coats of Waterlox over it? I am certainly not an expert (in fact very much a finishing novice), but like what the Waterlox/Danish Oil/Waterlox sequence (kindly shared with me by BrianGeib) did for some small tables I built out of QSWO. I am sure others can chime in with more experienced advice.

 

[Jeff]

Zach,

Wow, that's an impressive undertaking to say the least! :eusa_clap

In a marine environment I'd think that you'd want a "flexible" finish that'll accommodate swelling and shrinking without cracking. A high quality marine spar varnish will provide that and also give protection against spills, staining, etc.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...id=92&familyName=Epifanes+Gloss+Clear+Varnish

http://epifanes.com/na/2010/gloss-varnish-for-mahoganyteak-and-humidity/

http://www.epifanes.com/products.html

You could try mixing some Epifanes with Mineral Spirits (2:1 or 3:1) and testing it on some of the raw wood for penetration; then topcoat a separate section for the finished visual effect. Your clients may like it too. :dontknow:

 

[jdulaney]

For your first coat, do a mix of six parts Danish Oil, three parts spar varnish, and one part Japan Dryer. Your second coat should be five parts Danish, four varnish, and one Japan Dryer. After that, a couple of coats of varnish and you'll be set. Spar varnish is self leveling and can be brushed on.

 

[Bas]

Danish oil (which is essentially an oil/ varnish blend) doesn't offer much protection. If you're going to go with an oil-based varnish like Waterlox, applying Danish Oil first won't do much extra. I think Waterlox would be a good choice. It provides good protection without looking like plastic, and you can apply additional coats without having to sand it. By contrast, polyurethane must be sanded in between for proper adhesion. Having said that, I do think you need to sand a little to remove any dust nibs after 2-3 coats, but it's not terribly labor intensive. It's definitely a good choice for a boat where space is limited and you have to finish stuff in place. The only downside is that oil-based finishes smell for a good 3-4 weeks, especially in such a confined space.

 

[Jeff]

+1 to the comments made by BAS. Watco Danish Oil is not recommended for exterior use per se. Waterlox Marine Sealer, Marine Finish, and "Original" sealer/finish are a bit more forgiving depending upon the degree of exposure to the elements and uv rays. All 4 are made from tung oil so the finished effect should be about the same.

http://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guides/Marine.aspx

Waterlox application does not require wiping it off or sanding between dry coats. Reapplication, when necessary, is easy too. Clean the surface and re-coat without wiping it off.

IMHO, a yacht cabin qualifies as a harsh marine environment even without interior uv exposure; hatchways, ports, and funnels are usually open so it's the same inside as on deck.

 

[ZachEakes]

Thanks guys!

Your input has been great, and some new things to think about.

I will get my hands on some waterlox and see what the finish looks like.

Zach

 

[Howard Acheson]

In addition to being only slightly protective, oil/varnish mixtures like Watco the linseed oil component will provide a great base for mold growth.

I would use a good dark varnish like Waterlox Original. It very protective and long lasting.

 

[Jeff]

Zach,

An important point that we all forgot to mention. The Waterlox products cure by oxidation when exposed to air. If not protected from air the residual stuff in the original can will eventually turn to a useless gel. Get some "Bloxygen" (argon gas is heavier than air) to protect your investment each and every time you close up the original container. Do not return unused finish to the original can, it's better to just discard it because its already begun to cure.

I learned the hard and expensive way about this. :BangHead:

http://www.bloxygen.com/

Let us know how it works for your application...and, pics or it didn't happen!

Thanks guys!

Your input has been great, and some new things to think about.

I will get my hands on some waterlox and see what the finish looks like.

Zach

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> The Waterlox products cure by oxidation when exposed to air.

All oil based finishes cure by oxidation. The reason Waterlox Original deteriorates faster is because of the driers that they use in their product.