TS splitter

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NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
I have seen that splitter before, but under another name? (edit) same name, Woodcraft!
 
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jmauldin

New User
Jim
I've seen that one advertised, but have never used that splitter or any other. In my 40 yrs of wookworking I haven't seen the need for them unless you are sawing green or damp lumber. And, although I don't like Norm, have you noticed that he has removed guard and splitter from his saw? I personally think it is a sells gimmick and an OSHA hang-up.
Jim in Mayberry
 

mshel

Michael Shelley
Corporate Member
I think you might get a lot of differing opinion on whether to "use" or "not use" a splitter. Personally, I do whenever possible and feel good about my decision to do so. Not having a serious kickback has cemented my decision to use a splitter and the one time I did have a kickback, there was no splitter in place. That particular incident involved ripping a narrow piece of stock and I couldn't get a push stick on it. It ended up at the far end of my home shop but only after going through a 1/4" piece of plywood. For those who don't know how kickback occurs, watch this video http://woodcraftnews.com/t.aspx?S=1&ID=1883&NL=1&N=1132&SI=439237&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.woodcraft-gallery.com%2fStreamingMedia%2fGripper1.wmv.

Just my 2 centavos

Mike
 

Monty

New User
Monty
I have used the MJ Splitter... I bought it because it was simple and cheap, and I thought having a splitter was a very important safety feature (which it is, by the way). I had what I would regard as luke-warm results with this splitter, though. It works fine as a splitter for stable workpieces like plywood panels. This is good, because plywood panels can really give you a nasty kickback -- see my kickback analysis here.

As long as you realize that the MJ Splitter is just a cheap little piece of plastic, then you'll have an appropriate understanding of how it should be used and what its limitations are. You can NOT rely on this splitter to keep an odd-grained or case-hardened piece of hardwood from binding your blade. Only a good strong metal splitter can do that. Even wood that is properly dried and stable will sometimes move a little during rip cuts, and this little plastic thing will provide little support to keep things in line.

One of the biggest advantages of the MJ Splitter is that it is easily removeable, and that aids in compliance... in other words you're more likely to actually USE it. Of course this may not be a good thing if you're relying on it as your only safety feature when ripping hardwoods. It also does not have any pawls or other obstructions, so you don't have to remove it to use your crosscut sled.

Bottom line: it's cheap. Give it a try if you want, you won't be out much $$$.
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Mike, that was an interesting video. I remember you said you were thinking about getting one of those Grippers. Have you picked one up yet?

D L
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
Todd, I'd buy a splitter designed for your saw that is easily removed and rotates with the trunnion. Still, if the alternative is nothing I'd say go with an inexpensive stopgap.

I initially took the stock splitter off my unisaw. I hated the splitter and the blade guard. About a year ago I made a decision to buy a splitter after reading of a few kickbacks.

Biesemeyer made a very nice splitter for 150 dollars. More careful searching yielded that Delta sold a splitter for the unisaw (P/N 1349941)for 35 dollars...and I believe it is the SAME splitter as the Biese. The only drawback is it is for a full kerf blade but that's all I use. Comes off in a few seconds and a few seconds to install. Can be used with beveled cuts.

A splitter is a good idea IMHO. I only remove mine for dadoes or tenons (and a few jigs).

Mike, I watched the Grrripper video and have considered using one before but the guy making the sales pitch acts like an idiot pushing the extreme right side of the stock without a splitter with that simple pusher. :lol: :lol:
Yeh, I know, he's trying to sell his product! Still, I'm not sure I can be comfortable running my hands over the blade.

Chuck
 

wapitiscat

New User
Todd Earnhardt
Sounds like I should look into a solid aftermarket splitter. I vaguely remember an article about modifying the stock splitter for the G1023 to make it quicker to install and remove. Anyway, thanks for the commnets.

Todd
 

clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
I have used the splitter before. I can't say I am excited about it. ( I took it off ) But it is easily removable. Some people swear by this product, I do not.

consider the words of Insom...
"As long as you realize that the MJ Splitter is just a cheap little piece of
plastic"

Then you can go from there. I guess I would say.. having this is better than nothing?
 

Jonz

New User
Chris Jones
wapitiscat said:
I vaguely remember an article about modifying the stock splitter for the G1023 to make it quicker to install and remove.

I'd like to see that myself.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Jonz said:
I'd like to see that myself.
Me two! I have a 1990s 1023 Griz and the splitter has not been installed by myself nor the previous owner. It's still wrapped in plastic and covered in cosmoline (sp?).

Sapwood
 

WoodWrangler

New User
Jeremy
I have the MJ Splitter and I'd only give it TWO STARS of five. It works well, but it's made of plastic and the "pegs" that hold it down are weak and flemsy. Half the time the MJ Splitter is pulled out of the table saw insert and stuck between the pinching wood ... not cool.
 

SteveColes

New User
Steve
For an after market splitter/guard, I can recommend these. Well I can recommmend them for the BT3100 and the dewalt 746x. For other models, I haven't personally tried them, but this guy does good work.
 

mshel

Michael Shelley
Corporate Member
D L Ames said:
Mike, that was an interesting video. I remember you said you were thinking about getting one of those Grippers. Have you picked one up yet?

D L

Yea, I finally found one at a reasonable price and have used it a fair number of times however it has not been my go to push stick so far. I do a lot of ripping and feel more comfortable using my splitter and the Gripper won't go over it. To be honest, I have just been lazy and just use the quickest way sometimes and that just so happens to be the regular splitter. I have also used it on my router table and a couple of times on my jointer to hold some stock down when I was face jointing. I would like to have two but I'll hold off til the price falls off some more. Yea, right :lol:


Mike
 

mshel

Michael Shelley
Corporate Member
SteveColes said:
For an after market splitter/guard, I can recommend these. Well I can recommmend them for the BT3100 and the dewalt 746x. For other models, I haven't personally tried them, but this guy does good work.

Steve,

That is the same guy I worked with to develop the Shark Guard for the PM 66. Good quality at a fair price IMHO.

MIke
 
M

McRabbet

Re: Shark Guards. I first looked at his site before I joined NCWW.net and knew then that he had a good product. I'm considering getting one for my Grizzly G1023SLX, because, like many of you all, I ditched the blade guard and pawls early on because I do a fair amount of sawing where the consarned thing gets in the way. I do have a pair of Shop Fox Board Buddies mounted on my fence that take care of almost every kickback potential, but I still experience some blade burning on stressed wood and have no above-table dust collection as offered with his unit. At ~$125 in your choice of 8 colors, it looks to be a pretty good deal. Any comments on his "Shark Feeder" and add-on pawls?

I also like his home-made Dust Collection System and his ventures into CNC routing. The guy is resourceful, to say the least!!

Rob
 
J

jeff...

No but I like the disclaimer "Saw guard removed for clarity." Yeah right and if you want to use the saw for anything useful...:lol: When I first got my TS I put it together with the guard on, after the first cut it came off and has not been back on since. Lets see that was how many years ago?.?.?.:eusa_whis
 
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