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Thanks Fred - when I use the spray glue on my scroll saw patterns I use mineral spirits to get the pattern off - I will try it on this application as well - I wonder if I am brave enough to try the spray glue on this as well:eusa_thin Maybe not today:no:
Philip, don't use the spray for turnings, it isn't strong enough.
The brown paper will work, but usually isn't needed for bowls if you have a parting tool, just part-off through the glue line.
Craft or Kraft paper is most often used when making split turnings, like a column, where the piece is turned as one, then split, using each semi circular half on something like a fireplace mantle or clock.
howzat for a run on sentence... :gar-La;
Phil.
The brown paper will work, but usually isn't needed for bowls if you have a parting tool, just part-off through the glue line.
Craft or Kraft paper is most often used when making split turnings, like a column, where the piece is turned as one, then split, using each semi circular half on something like a fireplace mantle or clock.
howzat for a run on sentence... :gar-La;
Phil.
Thanks Phil - that was a pretty good run on that sentence man:icon_thum Do you thing holding wire hooked on to dowels and running it down through the glue line would work on slow speed:icon_scra
Wires are generally used for burning in decorative lines, would be really slow. You could probably remove the bulk of the waste with a spindle gouge, then stop the lathe and complete the cut with a hand saw.
A parting tool is easy to make, I use a piece of hacksaw blade for my small turnings. Some make parting tools from old saws-all blades, grind the teeth off and attach a handle of some sort.
Most any flat piece of steel will work, just keep the kerf wider than the tool so it doesn't bind.
Phil.
A parting tool is easy to make, I use a piece of hacksaw blade for my small turnings. Some make parting tools from old saws-all blades, grind the teeth off and attach a handle of some sort.
Most any flat piece of steel will work, just keep the kerf wider than the tool so it doesn't bind.
Phil.
I glued one up and let it dry for about half hour and turned it - it worked great - I was kind of worried when I had several "grabs" while I was turning the inside of the bowl but it held it tight:eusa_pray - it is in the shop drying I will post picture later - I have some "tear out" "lift" or what ever you call it and I tried to get it out while I was turning but other things started to happen so I decided to sand it out - I sanded and sanded and still didn't get all of it out :nah: my other Sapele bowl did the same thing - does Sapele have problems like that? I am really going to have to learn to turn these things better:help:
oh-did I mention that I SANDED :gar-La;
oh-did I mention that I SANDED :gar-La;
Yea, I see right now that this dark side is going to cost me a lot and get me in trouble with the wife = I either need to get another part time job or sale more stuff:gar-La;
I haven't turned much sapele, but "tearout" is easy to do with any wood, it has more to do with how you hold the tool than the wood.
Have look at this picture, notice the position of the cutting edge to the line of the wood being cut, the tool handle and gouge flute are horizontal.
You can do the same inside the bowl with the flute facing away from you.
Get the tool rest inside the bowl best you can. Make your cuts from the rim to the bottom.
Start with the tool handle away from you, across the lathe bed, then pull the handle toward you as you swing an arc from the rim to the bottom center. This will greatly "reduce" tearout,notice "reduce", some pieces with wild grain just don't cooperate. :wink_smil
Have look at this picture, notice the position of the cutting edge to the line of the wood being cut, the tool handle and gouge flute are horizontal.
You can do the same inside the bowl with the flute facing away from you.
Get the tool rest inside the bowl best you can. Make your cuts from the rim to the bottom.
Start with the tool handle away from you, across the lathe bed, then pull the handle toward you as you swing an arc from the rim to the bottom center. This will greatly "reduce" tearout,notice "reduce", some pieces with wild grain just don't cooperate. :wink_smil
I use to have a bass boat and my grandmother told me that it was nothing but a whole in the water that you throw your money in - but with the lathe I can make some money I hope
I haven't turned much sapele, but "tearout" is easy to do with any wood, it has more to do with how you hold the tool than the wood.
Have look at this picture, notice the position of the cutting edge to the line of the wood being cut, the tool handle and gouge flute are horizontal.
You can do the same inside the bowl with the flute facing away from you.
Get the tool rest inside the bowl best you can. Make your cuts from the rim to the bottom.
Start with the tool handle away from you, across the lathe bed, then pull the handle toward you as you swing an arc from the rim to the bottom center. This will greatly "reduce" tearout,notice "reduce", some pieces with wild grain just don't cooperate. :wink_smil
Thanks Phil for the heads up - I guess I am going to have to take some classes so that I can learn how to hold the tools correctly
I had the same problem today with some cherry:BangHead:.Pics later this week.I found it helps to have a SHARP tool. I used my scraper with fine cuts. AND a lot of sanding 
. I would like to know about Sapele though I got some I want to turn?:dontknow:
. I would like to know about Sapele though I got some I want to turn?:dontknow:
I made sure that my tool was sharpe while I was cutting - I am pretty sure that my problem is the "holding the tool correctly" thing as Phil suggested
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