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Looks like this saw is also know as a Carbatec TSC-10HB. Maybe you can find some reviews?
http://www.carbatec.com.au/tsc-10hb-heavy-duty-cabinet-saw_c3031
Looks like its maybe made in Australia/New Zealand so you might have problems with parts.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/tsc-10hb-heavy-duty-cabinet-saw_c3031
Looks like its maybe made in Australia/New Zealand so you might have problems with parts.
Did you check out the ads at the top of the home page?
The saws are made in Taiwan by Mao Shan (www.maoshan.com) who make a lot of machines that are rebranded for various companies worldwide. Toolex in Canada, Transpower and Northstate in the US, Carbatec in AUS and NZ. Laneave has had them for years.
If you are comparing the Northstate to a used new design Unisaw I would not hesitate to go with the Unisaw. The riving knife alone would clinch the deal for me.
If you are comparing the Northstate to a used new design Unisaw I would not hesitate to go with the Unisaw. The riving knife alone would clinch the deal for me.
Comparing the northstate as seen here http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/2244555302.html located at LeNeave and the Unisaw in the classified section on this site.
I looked at the northstate today and it is solid. I haven't seen a unisaw in person though.
I looked at the northstate today and it is solid. I haven't seen a unisaw in person though.
I'd be PM'ing Greg right now if I was interested in his Unisaw. Fit and finish, better class of motor, minimal runout on the arbor, top grade arbor nut and washer, flatness of the top, blade height/angle adjustment smoothness with little to no backlash are the differences you expect with a Unisaw. The X5 gets you some extras and some bling.
+1. The X5 is the same saw that I have. I've used it everyday for the last 6 years. It will last several lifetimes. You can't go wrong with the Unisaw.:icon_cheers
Lyell
With the same fence and hp buy the Unisaw and don't look back. In 10 yrs it will be worth twice the other one on the used market. This is not meant to be a bash at the other saw which might be every bit as nice, but the Unisaw is a much better value and will be easier to buy accessories for.
The X5 on the end.
Delta ran a promotion a few years ago with a 5 year warranty, and stuck X5 on the end of the name.
I have an X5 and it's the same saw as those that don't have that label.
I don't have anything specific to that particular model number. I have no idea how much experience you have at buying used and using woodworking machines in general so I hope I don't offend you with the following checklist. If I do please just tell me to go make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and we'll know.:gar-Bi Nobody will ever want to sell me anything now... but here are the things I would have on a general checklist and use in my value assessment:
Run it for a few minutes with the size blade you intend to use on it. Does it spin up to full speed instantly? Does it pass the nickel test? (Stand a nickel on edge on the top and see if it stays there) If not it may need the belt adjusted or a new belt (best case) or need a new belt and new bearings (worse case).
How old is it? Hours? If it's in a commercial shop it may have a lot of use and need motor and bearing work.
Are the 4 machine screws holding the top on in place?
Does it have the original motor? Any leaking or evidence of a cleaned up leak around the start capacitors on the motor case? Don't tell the seller but they're cheap to replace at Central Rewinding on Hwy 29 in Concord...just a pain to match and get stuffed back into the covers.
Does it have the original open and closed end arbor wrenches? The OEM closed end wrenchs are hard to find and not absolutely essential but it's nice to have a matched set.
Are the arbor, arbor nut and arbor flanges in good shape? (ie no nicks, crossthreads, etc) The nut and flange washer are not too expensive to replace.
How much run-out does the arbor have? Should be very small (<0.003"). Get a dial indicator and a magnetic base for ~$6 each at Harbor Freight if you dont already have one. You'll need it later on) Major pain in the rear to fix this if it's messed up. http://www.sawcenter.com/ will rebuild them for $89. They're also a great source of Unisaw information btw.
Is the fence complete? All the adjustment set screws? Smooth working? Sturdy when locked? Push against it a little in the middle and see if it moves on the rail when locked. The Beisiemeyer fences are pretty bulletproof. The teflon pads on the bottom can come off.
Does the switch work? Any sparks?
Any deep pitting on the top? Light rust is nothing to worry about and easy to remove with wet and dry sandpaper and WD40. Pitting is impossible to fix without machining down that whole section of the top.
Set it up and run a 10" blade all the way up and then all the way down, then all the way up and tilt. Should be smooth as silk with no slop or snagging. Adjustment stops for 90 and 45 degrees should be present and not worn. Middle locking hubs on the handwheels should be present and not be stripped.. (they get lost easily for some reason)
Other things to consider are original manuals and getting a bill of sale.
Good luck!
Run it for a few minutes with the size blade you intend to use on it. Does it spin up to full speed instantly? Does it pass the nickel test? (Stand a nickel on edge on the top and see if it stays there) If not it may need the belt adjusted or a new belt (best case) or need a new belt and new bearings (worse case).
How old is it? Hours? If it's in a commercial shop it may have a lot of use and need motor and bearing work.
Are the 4 machine screws holding the top on in place?
Does it have the original motor? Any leaking or evidence of a cleaned up leak around the start capacitors on the motor case? Don't tell the seller but they're cheap to replace at Central Rewinding on Hwy 29 in Concord...just a pain to match and get stuffed back into the covers.
Does it have the original open and closed end arbor wrenches? The OEM closed end wrenchs are hard to find and not absolutely essential but it's nice to have a matched set.
Are the arbor, arbor nut and arbor flanges in good shape? (ie no nicks, crossthreads, etc) The nut and flange washer are not too expensive to replace.
How much run-out does the arbor have? Should be very small (<0.003"). Get a dial indicator and a magnetic base for ~$6 each at Harbor Freight if you dont already have one. You'll need it later on) Major pain in the rear to fix this if it's messed up. http://www.sawcenter.com/ will rebuild them for $89. They're also a great source of Unisaw information btw.
Is the fence complete? All the adjustment set screws? Smooth working? Sturdy when locked? Push against it a little in the middle and see if it moves on the rail when locked. The Beisiemeyer fences are pretty bulletproof. The teflon pads on the bottom can come off.
Does the switch work? Any sparks?
Any deep pitting on the top? Light rust is nothing to worry about and easy to remove with wet and dry sandpaper and WD40. Pitting is impossible to fix without machining down that whole section of the top.
Set it up and run a 10" blade all the way up and then all the way down, then all the way up and tilt. Should be smooth as silk with no slop or snagging. Adjustment stops for 90 and 45 degrees should be present and not worn. Middle locking hubs on the handwheels should be present and not be stripped.. (they get lost easily for some reason)
Other things to consider are original manuals and getting a bill of sale.
Good luck!
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