Surface rust on table saw

[kooshball]

I have some "top saver" that I have been using on my tools but am not happy with it; I can develop surface rust on my table saw within a day or two of applying this treatment.

I read an old thread on this site and am now sold on the Boeshield product but would like recommendations on the right way to remove the rust prior to applying the boesheild.

Thanks

 

[gdoebs]

Boeshield rocks! To remove the rust I use T-9 Rust Free. Same company makes the Boeshield.

 

[Bas]

I have some "top saver" that I have been using on my tools but am not happy with it; I can develop surface rust on my table saw within a day or two of applying this treatment.

I read an old thread on this site and am now sold on the Boeshield product but would like recommendations on the right way to remove the rust prior to applying the boesheild.

Thanks

Clean off any surface rust with an abrasive pad (those green ones work great) and WD40 or some other rust remover if the surface rust is stubborn (Bbarkeeper's Friend is a good one). If it's really stubborn, an abrasive pad mounted to a random orbit sander should make short work of it. Then thoroughly clean the table with mineral spirits to remove any old coatings, apply Boeshield, and let dry. Then buff thoroughly. Boeshield is not very slick, so a topcoat of paste wax is a good idea.

 

[mkepke]

Like Bas, I would use some sort of a soft abrasive pad. Steel wool if that's handy for example.

David - What's your shop environment like that you're developing rust within a day or two ?

-Mark

 

[kooshball]

Like Bas, I would use some sort of a soft abrasive pad. Steel wool if that's handy for example.

David - What's your shop environment like that you're developing rust within a day or two ?

-Mark

I'm in the garage but it is only the table saw top with the issue. I haven't touched the jointer with any rust inhibitor that I bought a few weeks ago and have been using it more than the table saw. My bandsaw and drill press are covered with dust but none of them have any surface rust. Maybe I got a rust-prone top??

 

[ehpoole]

I'd be curious what the humidity level is in your shop. I had to break down and install a dehumidifier in mine because the humidity at times would reach 80-90% during Spring and Summer months.

Although my main motivation was comfort and maintaining a more stable humidity level for the wood I store in my shop, it has also had a huge impact in the rate at which tools rust in my shop.

I use Top Saver on most of my cast iron surfaces and it went from lasting an average of 4-6 weeks per applicaiton, to lasting 6mo to a year between applications when I hold the workshop at a stable 40-45% humidity.

If your shop warms rapidly (e.g. little insulation, lots of windows, etc.) once the sun rises, that will also contribute to surface rusting since your cast iron surfaces will be amongst the coolest surfaces in your shop each morning. High humidity and a cool cast iron surface and your just begging for rust. If your shop warms very slowly then it is probably just the ambient humidity alone that's to blame.

 

[JimmyC]

I also don't have much of a rust problem since I put a dehumidifier in the shop.

But as far as taking care of the rust goes, Boeshield works good as a protectant, but if you see rust that isn't that deep here's a CHEAP maintenance program :

After using a top sealer, rust will occur after some use, but only where yopu've been working. So take a piece of aluminum foil and ball it up and the rub the surface rust away, after it's gone use a piece of wax paper and rub it on the spot that was rusty. You won't get anymore rust until you wear the protectant off.

It takes very little rubbing with the foil and wax paper to achieve this, and buying a roll of each at the dollar store costs $2.00 plus tax.

I've been using this method for years.

 

[kooshball]

Blue Label Paste Wax from Behlen good enough for a top-coat after the boshield?

 

[MarkE]

I also don't have much of a rust problem since I put a dehumidifier in the shop.

But as far as taking care of the rust goes, Boeshield works good as a protectant, but if you see rust that isn't that deep here's a CHEAP maintenance program :

After using a top sealer, rust will occur after some use, but only where yopu've been working. So take a piece of aluminum foil and ball it up and the rub the surface rust away, after it's gone use a piece of wax paper and rub it on the spot that was rusty. You won't get anymore rust until you wear the protectant off.

It takes very little rubbing with the foil and wax paper to achieve this, and buying a roll of each at the dollar store costs $2.00 plus tax.

I've been using this method for years.

I am definitely going to try this! Thanks.

 

[BillPappas]

After you cleanup the rust and put on the protective coating cover the top with clean dry bath towels. I started doing it about 5 years ago and have not had rust on any of my tools. My shop has air-conditioning and it certainly helps but I have become convinced the towels somehow help as well. It would be interesting to see if it works in a shop without air-conditioning.

Regards,

Bill

 

[Gofor]

Bill:

I think you are right about the cotton towels.

I was using a plastic sheet (actually, an old air mattress that leaked) to cover my saw and was still getting frequent rust. I switched to an old cotton quilted blanket, and no more problems.

My "shop" is the two-car garage: The only heat is from a freezer that is running, no cooling except a fan in the summer, or climate control other than the sun hitting the south-facing metal roll-up door ( sun heat in the winter, but the eaves shade it in the summer, and the white reflects concrete driveway heat to a point.)

Go

 

[randwool]

I've had good results using the Deep Creep spray from the Seafoam company and wiping it on the surfaces of my machines between uses. No return of rust spots.

 

[4yanks]

+1 on T-9 Rust Free. Used it once about 4 years ago, Boeshield periodically after that. No more rust.