She (he, it?) cleans up real nice!!

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Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
In my previous thread about my new beast, I included some pics including the cleaned up left side and the yet to be cleaned right side. Here now are the before and after shots of the right side:

Before:

PC140062.JPG


And after: (quite a bit nicer- almost new looking. Heck, the original paint hasn't even worn off the sprocket teeth yet!!!)

PC170063.JPG


And if you are interested in how heavy-duty this thing is constructed compared to today's equivalent- in addition to the heavy castings that hold the cutter head and rollers, the upper frame is welded from 3/8" steel! The lower "sheet metal" section, including the big access doors, is a hefty 3/16" steel more like steel plating than sheet metal! The gray painted steel visible on the side of the bed is sheet metal bolted to the big cast iron bed. I haven't measured the thickness of the cast iron bed but the casting includes a 3" wide skirt all the way around it (under the steel panels.) No wonder this thing weighs over 1000#.

Question: Anyone have any suggestions for lubricating the chain and sprockets. On the OWW web site there is one recommendation to use dry grease to limit dust adhering to the grease. I have a spray can of Dry Lithium Grease already so may use that.
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
Alan,

Looks like you're making good progress. I guess at over a thousand pounds, it's not actually considered mobile...:roll:

Ray
 

dino drosas

Dino
Corporate Member
Alan, Looks great: :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap but it is no less than I expected from you. I should have waited another week to pick up that walnut so that you could get some serious run time on that beast; it looks hungry
 
J

jeff...

I see a lot of places that are only spot welded - it's no good. Bring it to me and I'll dispose of it for you, don't forget the extra knifes.

Thanks
 

Terry

New User
Terrence P. Rielly
Great Job Alan!:icon_thum It is well built by current standards. You definetly got to keep an eye on Jeff.:5obsessed But have no fear Jeff will never get that off the 2nd floor :crybaby2:unless he is ready to invest in the "Beast" or Whatever it is!.

You should be OK with the Grease but have given you a web site you might want to check. It's very good!
Doing a great job Alan on the Beast.:eusa_clap Jeff :spam:your sneaky! HE! HE!:eusa_naug:jealous:
Terry

http://geargrease.com/
 

Dusty Sawyer

New User
David
The beauty of the beast is that it is neither he nor is it she, but that it is the beast. One has to love the smell of aged heavy grease and the faint odor of oxidizing iron.

That's a nice piece of equipment and it looks like you've done a great job with it.

Cheers,
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I found this stuff that I had purchased for the lead screw on my router lift. It sprays on wet but dries quickly, won't attract dust, and according to what I read on the web, it is perfect for lubricating chains. I used it to lubricate all the chains.

dupont.jpg


Tonight after reinstalling the chains and installing a new plug, I powered it. It started smooth, feels powerful, but is quiet and vibration free!

I also ran into the first problem- I couldn't adjust the table height. The actuating lever, gear box, all the gears (all in the area I just cleaned) work fine. The chain that connects to the sprockets on the four table support lead screws won't budge, however. Either the table is jammed or one or more of the lead screws is seized or has some other problem. Hopefully it is nothing serious and that there is no damage from when the planer fell on its back on moving day. Anyway, I'll need to do a little trouble shooting.
 

BarryC

New User
Barry
Question: Anyone have any suggestions for lubricating the chain and sprockets. On the OWW web site there is one recommendation to use dry grease to limit dust adhering to the grease. I have a spray can of Dry Lithium Grease already so may use that.

I bet bicycle chain spray lube would work well. The carries evaporates and leaved the chain well lubed and stuff (in this case wood dust) wouldn't be as likely to stick to it.
 

DIYGUY

New User
Mark
Alan,
The suggestion for bicycle chains is a good one - but you don't have to get overly concerned or fancy. For years I used ATF on my chains. It works great and is easily cleaned off by soaking in kerosene when it eventually needs it. I heat it up so that it is around 110-120 degrees or so. You can do that in a tin can on a stove, just watch that it does not get too hot because it will smoke up the house and it will burn! Soak the chains in it over night and then hang them up to drip back into the pot. If you ever need to take them off or shorten a link you can use the chain removal tools found in a motorcycle shop. I will bet that the ones for a bicycle are too small to fit.
 
J

jeff...

I found this stuff that I had purchased for the lead screw on my router lift. It sprays on wet but dries quickly, won't attract dust, and according to what I read on the web, it is perfect for lubricating chains. I used it to lubricate all the chains.

dupont.jpg


Tonight after reinstalling the chains and installing a new plug, I powered it. It started smooth, feels powerful, but is quiet and vibration free!

I also ran into the first problem- I couldn't adjust the table height. The actuating lever, gear box, all the gears (all in the area I just cleaned) work fine. The chain that connects to the sprockets on the four table support lead screws won't budge, however. Either the table is jammed or one or more of the lead screws is seized or has some other problem. Hopefully it is nothing serious and that there is no damage from when the planer fell on its back on moving day. Anyway, I'll need to do a little trouble shooting.

It's those pesky spot welds - like I said bring it to me for proper disposal
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I bet bicycle chain spray lube would work well. The carries evaporates and leaved the chain well lubed and stuff (in this case wood dust) wouldn't be as likely to stick to it.

Alan,
The suggestion for bicycle chains is a good one - but you don't have to get overly concerned or fancy. For years I used ATF on my chains. It works great and is easily cleaned off by soaking in kerosene when it eventually needs it. I heat it up so that it is around 110-120 degrees or so. You can do that in a tin can on a stove, just watch that it does not get too hot because it will smoke up the house and it will burn! Soak the chains in it over night and then hang them up to drip back into the pot. If you ever need to take them off or shorten a link you can use the chain removal tools found in a motorcycle shop. I will bet that the ones for a bicycle are too small to fit.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did a little research on the Dupont Teflon stuff- according to a Dupont engineer, the stuff I used it identical to their bicycle chain lubricant- just different label on the can. I read another thread that says this stuff is great for any chain, including motorcycles! that works for me!!!

Now it is time to head to the shop and see about freeing up the table.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I solved the table height adjustment problem. The table on this planer has two guides on either side of table in the back that are bolted to the cabinet. They must have moved when we dumped the thing over on moving day. Anyway, I just loosened the bolts and repositioned the guides. Now the table moves up and down easily via both motorized and manual handwheel operation.

I hooked up a temporary DC line to the 6" outlet on the dust chute, fired it up, and planed an oak board. Everything worked well. The four knive cutter head did a nice job. I left the bed rollers up for the first two passes and lowered them for the final passes. It is nice to have adjustable bed rollers. I put some Top Coat on the bed, but will wax it tomorrow.

I need to buy some 6" DC hose- a good reason to visit the new Woodcraft.

I also need to replace the four rubber boots that protect the table height lead screws. The rubber on these accordian looking things is shot. Delta wants $52 apiece for new ones. The McMaster Carr price is similar, so I'm looking for other sources.
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
My new motorcycle owners manual says to just use kerosene for both the clean and lub. The chain is sealed o-ring.

Given the abuse those chains see, mainly when leaving the asphaulted path, might work too.

I also have read that ATF is good, but be warned, its a smelly option.

You may recall, I purchased your old shopsmith jointer. Are you planning to mount this one to your shopsmith :p That'd get it up off the floor.

Jim
 
M

McRabbet

I need to buy some 6" DC hose- a good reason to visit the new Woodcraft.
Alan,

I bought a 25' length of McMaster-Carr PN 56355K34 6" Economical Clear PVC Duct Hose (6" ID x 6-7/32" OD) for $67.25 plus shipping. It is nice stuff and cheaper than the heavier hose sold by Wynn Environmental. Hope this helps. :lol:
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Alan,

I bought a 25' length of McMaster-Carr PN 56355K34 6" Economical Clear PVC Duct Hose (6" ID x 6-7/32" OD) for $67.25 plus shipping. It is nice stuff and cheaper than the heavier hose sold by Wynn Environmental. Hope this helps. :lol:

Thanks! I'll look into that. Actually I want to run a 6" line to my bandsaw too, so 25' would not be too much. I'm sure there will be some other run I need to make.
 

walnutjerry

New User
Jerry
I also need to replace the four rubber boots that protect the table height lead screws. The rubber on these accordian looking things is shot. Delta wants $52 apiece for new ones. The McMaster Carr price is similar, so I'm looking for other sources.

Alan------------Is it possible that a canvas sleeve might do the job? I could not see the rubber boots in the pics you mentioned.

Just a thought,-----------------------------Jerry
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Alan------------Is it possible that a canvas sleeve might do the job? I could not see the rubber boots in the pics you mentioned.

Just a thought,-----------------------------Jerry

Thanks. Sewing some from canvas or vinyl was my fall back. I started looking at automotive shock and rack boots, when a friend suggested aftermarket motorcycle or ATV fork boots, so I order four of these for a tad over $30- total for four! I will need to figure out a mounting (bushings on the top and ? on the bottom), but that should be no problem and definately worth it for the cost difference. They are probably heavier duty than the flimsy Delta boots also. (they come in colors, so I ordered red ones :-D )

58SeriesForkBoots.jpg


416001_gallery_156591.jpg
 
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