Self Adhesive/Iron Edge banding

[caadkins23]

I typically don’t use a lot of birch edge banding, but recently I decided to for some small drawer boxes I was building. I had purchased some a while back from Amazon, and honestly it was junk. Not enough glue to get it to bond well so I haven’t used it since. But I picked up some from Lowes and it seems to be better quality. My question is does anyone have preferred brand that is consistently good quality and be more durable that what I purchased a Lowes? Project source was the brand I used from Lowes.

 

[bob vaughan]

Imagination Tech here in Roanoke has the good stuff.
How much do you need, roughly?
You're not too far from me.
There should be some place in Martinsville that has it.
The problem with short pieces sold in retail stores is that it is about the worst stuff available. The good stuff comes in large rolls. Maybe search out a cabinet shop and try to buy some strips from them.

 

[ErnieM]

I've been making my own for years. If you have a bandsaw or tablesaw and a drum sander it's quite easy to do although it does take some time. Cost is zero (or next to zero) as I make it from scraps and cut offs. It doesn't limit you to birch or whatever the big box stores carry, and you can make it in whatever width you need. Just cut your strips to whatever width, length, and thickness you need. I normally make them about 1/32" thick. Use a wet sponge (wet with water) and wipe on the non-glue side of the edging. This will control the curling caused by the glue. Turn the edging over and apply regular yellow glue to the other side of the edging strip and to whatever you're gluing it to. Allow the glue to dry to the touch. If you're concerned about having enough glue on, apply another coat and let dry. Then take an iron set to high and iron the edging on. Trim as you would normally. With two coats of glue the whole process takes about 45 minutes - less time than it takes to go to the big box store. I've been doing this for years and have never had a failure.

Ernie

 

[bob vaughan]

Hmmmm.
Activate the semi-cured titebond with heat. Interesting. I'll have to try that some time.
It makes perfect sense.

 

[junquecol]

In working years, bought 250' rolls from Wurth.

 

[bob vaughan]

In working years, bought 250' rolls from Wurth.

My rolls date back way before those guys were around but the same type of cabinet shop suppliers. I still have a roll or two of red oak , cherry, and of all things, teak.
Who in the world can afford teak veneered plywood?
The point is that the best edge banding comes in 250' rolls from cabinet shop suppliers.

 

[Rwe2156]

I've never had a problem with Amazon heat activated edge banding.

On a big project I buy a roll from my supplier.

You can over do or under do the heat. Did you roll it after ironing? Very important to do that.

 

[bob vaughan]

You can over do or under do the heat. Did you roll it after ironing? Very important to do that.

Excellent point about the pressure. Usually I'll heat about 18", set the iron down and run the pressure stick along the edge. Been doing it this way for decades. The "pressure stick" is a piece of wood with 1/8" round over on the edges. The one pictured below is about 20 years old. It doesn't take fancy equipment. Those 'trimmer' gadgets don't work all that well because grain direction can change every 6" or so.

 

[mpeele]

If I buy edge banding I get it from Edgeco at edgecoinc.com. The only issue you might have is that there minimum order is 3 250' rolls. I think they have the best selection of wood species and any non-wood material you could want. They also have 1/2 mm and thicker. Their glue is the best I have ever used. I have bought the Sauers a couple of time and threw it away.

I have done the reheated Titetbond several time and found the original titebond seemed to work better that 2 or 3.

As for technique i sand the panel edge being banded a couple of strokes with 150 and then heat it with the iron until its hot to the touch. When you do this the banding will grab the banding when it touches it. I then run the iron back and forth on the banding with pressure until glue ozes out. I then burnish the banding with a 1/4" polished rod for 3 or 4 strokes. I burnish it to get an invisible glue join. For an iron I use my mother in laws clothes iron on the linen setting.

I don't trim the banding until the glue has cooled. I'll setup 4 panels, apply the banding and then trim all 4.

 

[golfdad]

I think Klingspors has it

 

[bob vaughan]

Nice write up.
Never heard of heating the panel edge but it makes perfect sense, at least for starting the banding. I'll have to try that.

 

[Rwe2156]

Another thing, I like to sand the edges of ply first.

 

[bob vaughan]

Another thing, I like to sand the edges of ply first.

I'll usually get a pretty smooth cut right off the table saw, but maybe that strategy could be improved upon. Does sanding (assuming 150 ± grit) improve the probability of a better bite with the adhesive?

 

[junquecol]

Never done edge banding with the heat method and Tite Bond, but have done curved edging with high pressure laminate that way. Heat gun and "J" roller.

 

[Mike Wilkins]

I have read about the double-glue and hot iron method in a couple of WW magazines. Interesting concept.
Never had a problem with the Birch banding from Lowes; I also use a roller to apply pressure while the glue is drying. I think this is what makes the difference.

 

[mpeele]

I'll usually get a pretty smooth cut right off the table saw, but maybe that strategy could be improved upon. Does sanding (assuming 150 ± grit) improve the probability of a better bite with the adhesive?

The sanding just ruffs up the edge and I think the banding glue grips a bit better because the banding glue is only a mechanical bond. It also removes any loose material from the edge.

I started pre-heating the panel edge the first time I used some prefinished banding. The smell from heating the prefinished made me think the finish may be damaged by too much heat. It also makes it easier when using 1 or 2 mm banding much easier.

 

[ChemE75]

Never did much edge banding, mostly the white plastic to match the white melamine. Never had much of an issue. I do recall a friend who worked with laminates told me about rolling or pressure “rubbing” as mentioned above. Never had any complaints. For wood, I’ve also cut thin strips and glued/clamped in place. But I like the method glue, recoat, let dry and iron on. Makes sense, I know luthiers use heat to loosen parts on guitars like damaged necks to replace them.