rust gloat: $20 Rockwell Bandsaw

[Sully]

.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Looks ... well, rusty. But I'm sure it will clean up nice and will actually look like a huge turnaround with just a little cleanup!

 

[Gotcha6]

It's always good to get a bargain with a lot of 'potential'. Nothing wrong with using a little elbow grease to save some o' that 'green grease' we keep in our wallets.:icon_thum I even see the possibility of a riser block there.
You [STRIKE]rust[/STRIKE] ROCK!

 

[sapwood]

Looking forward to the results of this project. I love to see old 'arn rise again :icon_thum

Hmmm, that's not rust . . . it's patina :mrgreen:

Roger

 

[CrealBilly]

great save

 

[HMH]

I've been looking for one of those for awhile...

Nice grab!

 

[toolferone]

I am excited to see how it turns out! I think it will be a fun project.

 

[JohnW]

Sully,

I restored a 1953 model. Looks exactly like yours...well except for the patina. :gar-La; You still have the belt cover which it great. Most are missing by this time. Does yours have a multi-step pulley?

About the bearings. Approx 5-years ago, when I was looking for parts, the local Delta parts dept here in Charlotte wanted over 20 bucks for the bearing and even more for the spacer. (metal sleeve) Over $70.00 for a small spacer.:icon_scraThese are still avail at any place that sells bearings. Don't remember how much I paid but it was around 5 bucks total. Don't remember where I got them. Probably an auto parts store...but there are specialty bearing places around.

I have a pdf of an O&M manual with an exploded view of the parts. Not the same model year but they didn't change for many years so this should be +95% accurate. If you would like me to e-mail, PM your address.

 

[Gotcha6]

If you are needing/wanting bearings, get the # off the bearing seal if you can. You can cross over or reference a comparable # from WW Grainger, then go online and search. This also works if you have the I.D, O.D., and thickness of the bearing. I did this for jointer bearings on my 'Kenmore' jointer & found I could use roller skate bearings at <1/4 the price asked at Sears Parts.

 

[Sully]

Sully,
I have a pdf of an O&M manual with an exploded view of the parts. Not the same model year but they didn't change for many years so this should be +95% accurate. If you would like me to e-mail, PM your address.

Thanks for the tip about the bearings and PM sent about the manual.
J

 

[HMH]

Not to discount the others advise on bearing sources, but when you get to that point, call Accurate Bearing in Illinois. Do an internet search for the 800 number - (I'm not sure what the rules are for posting company info here). When you call, ask for Lynn, and tell her you are one of the "old tool guys". Read her the serial number off of your old bearing and she will cross reference her data to find you the modern replacement. I'm in the process of building my shop w/ all vintage tools, and I've used Accurate for all of my bearings - all of which have been a perfect fit. They stock all of the major brands, and their prices and shipping are unbeatable, (much much much cheaper than Delta).

Just my two cents worth.

 

[LeftyTom]

Sullly, you have taken on a love of labor...er, I mean labor of love. :elvis:

 

[gator]

First stop: reverse electrolysis tank for a long soak :rotflm:

J

Might want to try this from another recent thread:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f57/new-use-potatoes-21065/?highlight=potato+rust

George

 

[fsdogwood]

Nice acquirement, once restored, it should serve you well.

Pinwu

 

[Sully]

Might want to try this from another recent thread:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f57/new-use-potatoes-21065/?highlight=potato+rust

George

That sounds interesting, but I'm probably too impatient for that. Electrolysis ought to knock out most of it in a few days. I have had good luck with on hand planes.

I made good headway today disassembling the saw. I'm tagging and bagging all the parts as I go so that I'll be able to put it back together correctly. :confused_

J