Ridgid TS3650...

[pslamp32]

Anyone have the Ridgid 3650 and attach a unifence? The March pricecut is appealing but I've really grown to love the unifence I've been using. Just wondering if it will be a major PITA. For the the slight upgrade over my old Craftsman contractor I'm not sure if I'm willing to sacrifice the fence. Thanks!

 

[alleng]

i have the 3650, and i love it. even with the ridgid fence. the blade that came with leaves a lot to be desired.i replaced mine with a freud avanti, for 40 bucks i love that blade, leaves a very smooth edge. im not sure about putting on the unifence,but i dont think it would be imposible. i would sugest trying the ridgid fence after setting up the saw and see how you like it. like i said,i dont think it would be imposible to instal the uni.but then i have no idea hoe they mount up. but imo the saw is a good saw for the money

 

[TracyP]

I have the TS 3650 with the factory fence and with careful set up of the rails I find it easy to use and dead on accurate even for a beginner. I have never came out with a crooked cut unless it was my fault. Locking in place is precise and repeatability is good even when moving the fence and placing it back on the previous mark. Just make sure rails are good-n-tight Do not know what the unifence could add to accuracy and ease of use over the factory since I have never used it.

Tracy

 

[NCPete]

Peter, IIRC, the unifence you have has the 30" rails?? the Ridgid has a 36" rail, which can actually be forced out to 37 1/4" or so, if measuring with a tape, and the fence locks in tight. the saw seems pretty stout and cuts well when equipped with a decent blade.

 

[ebarr]

Peter,

I have the 3650 with the stock fence. I love the table saw. I think it is a wonderful deal for the money.

You can check out http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/index.php It's been awhile since I have been on this forum. But I found some very helpful info.

 

[jaustin]

I like mine and been thinking about getting a second one, what is the going price now for the saw?

have any of you made a insert for your saws, for dado blades?

 

[TracyP]

SEE THIS THREAD
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13335

 

[Gofor]

....have any of you made a insert for your saws, for dado blades?

I have about six homemade inserts (1 for TK, 1 for full kerf, three for different sized dadoes and one for a moulding head. ) I also have 10 more squared blanks awaiting bandsaw time to round out the ends and then drill the screw hole.

I start with "1/2" ply (15/32) and cut it to 3 23/32w x 14 3/8 long. I then cut a 1/2"w x 1/4" deep rabbet across one end to allow for a 3/4" wide tongue in the back. (Actual dimensions of the insert without the tongue are 3 23/32 x 13 7/8". I then trace the curves from the original and bandsaw them. I finish up with 4-in-hand rasp to get a good fit. I use the original or one of my others to locate the hole for the #10 screw and countersink it.
If you have a template bit for your router, you can use the original as template. Just don't cut into the tongue of the original if you use a top bearing bit.
I adjust the height with about 3 layers of duct tape on the ends, which brings it up flush with the table top.

For ZCIs for a full 10" blade, you will either need to cut a 1/4" deep slot in the bottom over the blade (the 10" blade only drops 1/4" below the table top and the insert is 1/2" thick) or start the cut with a smaller (i.e. circular saw) blade. This is not a problem with 6 or 8" dado sets. I install the insert and put the fence over the right third when running the blade up through it the first time.

My full kerf ZCI I made from a piece of HDPE (Plastic) and it works really well, and some have used corian scraps. The rest are Lowe's Arauco ply which works fine. You can cut the curves with a jigsaw or hand coping saw if you don't have access to a bandsaw (I didn't have a bandsaw when I made my first ones so used a jigsaw).

I would suggest making several at a time. The way lumber dimensions are changing, (I have seen "3/4" ply ranging from 19/32 to full 3/4) and the brittleness of some causing tearout, its nice to have a spare to quickly make one for the exact width of dado.

Go

PS: The above dimensions are for the Ridgid TS3650.

 

[NCPete]

Mark, why the need for a Dado ZCI???? for my Dado insert, I just maxed out the Dado and lifted the spinning blade through my insert.

 

[Gofor]

A ZCI will reduce tear out because it supports the edge of the wood on the cut. This only works if the insert is just clear of the sides of the cutting blade (mainly on the front edge where the saw is cutting). If you just have a max width dado insert, that works as far as supporting the work piece as a whole, but does nothing to reduce tearout on the edge of the dado/rabbet on the open side of the slot unless it is a maximum width cut.

To get the best cut, you only raise the dado thru the insert to the depth of the dado. That way you also prevent the leading edge of the blade from ripping out a chunk that may extend into the side cut. I have never had this happen, but then I don't work with some of the exotic hard-to-machine woods that the more rich and talented ones here do.

I do know a ZCI dado insert has made a difference for me using the less expensive oak and hardwood surfaced MDO ply.

By the way, you may also experience tearout if you make a crosscut sled for a full kerf blade and then put a thin kerf blade on the saw. If you do this, place the keeper piece on the same side as the arbor shoulder (drive belt or motor side) of the saw.

I'm not saying any of this has to be done. It does result in a cleaner cut in my experience.

Go

 

[NCPete]

makes sense! Thanks for the tip, now to see if I have some more of the magic Yellowfins plastic...