Re-sawing by hand--frame saws?

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jarrett

New User
Jarrett
I just made a screen door out of 1x3s, and the most expensive bit was the small 1/2" trim I used to cover up the screen edges. I was starting to want to work with non-dimensional sizes anyway, so I've been doing some research in re-sawing.

I don't have a bandsaw, and I don't really want such a big piece of machinery around (nor do I want to carry it up to my attic). I've watched the Woodwright's Shop episode where they're sawing out veneer by hand, but I don't think I could be that good with a rip saw. Plus, those saws can cost more than all of my other tools combined!

So, horizontal frame saws came into the picture. The idea is that with such a large frame, it makes it a lot easier to determine if your saw is straight or not, since your sawing angle is exaggerated at the ends. Has anyone tried these techniques? Anyone built a horizontal frame saw?

http://hyperkitten.com/woodworking/resaw.php
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/32750

I found a kit at Woodworker's supply:
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=900-335&LARGEVIEW=Off
Since I don't have a hand-saw to cut up for the blade, the idea of having a kit with everything I need is intriguing. Anyone try this kit before? Does it come with the blade?

Or, anyone with other neanderthal re-saw suggestions?
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
That saw is gonna work great!

You can pretty inexpensively get a bow saw blade up to 30" long. Woodcraft carries one that $11.

You can also order a nice selection of sawblades from Highland Hardware.

Jim
 

woodArtz

New User
Bob
Jarrett... Let me know if you decide to just bandsaw it. My saw is always looking for a good re-sawing opportunity. Heck, it re-saws in it's spare time. You know I don't have the patience that Jim has, so... :gar-La;
 

James Davis

New User
James Davis
Get your self a good rip filed handsaw and go at it. It is easier than you think. If you need a good hand saw let me know, I think I can fix you up.

James

000_00281.jpg
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
I have used a couple of saws belonging to this guy:
andyroy.JPG


in class to resaw the one piece bookstand. I found the frame saw was harder to get a straight cut with and Roy said he preferred the simple ripsaw as well. It is easier to correct an errant path with the framesaw but harder to stay on the right path, IM(limited)E.
 

jarrett

New User
Jarrett
Thanks for the ideas. I do need to try a rip handsaw at one point, but I guess my "operational drift" with my dovetail saw is making me want to try new methods.

Sounds like we might experiment in the Hillsborough Orange Woodworkers meetup group...

And thanks for the offer/suggestion of bandsaws, but that entails that I did any planning beforehand!
 

tjgreen

New User
Tim
After reading this thread, I grabbed a dull old yard sale handsaw from the wall, filed it to rip, and spent part of my Father's Day resawing a block of cherry. Granted it needs a lot of practice - after the first 1/2" one I made the rest a bit thicker to give me plenty of room to plane to 3/8" - but it actually worked! And while a lot slower than my bandsaw, it really wasn't that bad, and I'm sure it would've been even faster if it wasn't the first time I've sharpened a hand saw.

Of course, as a result of struggling to resaw with a cheap metal face vise on my plywood/2x4 bench, I got diverted to start building a real woodworking bench, before I get back to planing and using that cherry. Still, even that's another valuable lesson from this experience - the importance of a good bench. Thanks ncwwer.
 

ebrant

New User
Ed
I picked up the kit sold by Woodworkers Supply. It's on clearance for $15. I was disappointed. It has a hex head bolt, a length of 1/2" threaded rod, washers and wingnuts and two small bolts to hold the blade to the larger bolts. It also has about 5' of 1 1/4" bandsaw blade. The bandsaw is a 3TPI hook configuration that looks like it would be a bear to get started. You still have to slot the bolts yourself and I'd rather use a carriage bolt than a hex head. Best bet as I see it is to order a blade from Highland @$8 and go the Borg for the bolts.
 

GrantW

New User
Grant
Jarret, do you remember which episode of the Woodwright's Shop they showed the hand resawing? Was wondering if I could find it on the show's website. Thanks.

Grant

I just made a screen door out of 1x3s, and the most expensive bit was the small 1/2" trim I used to cover up the screen edges. I was starting to want to work with non-dimensional sizes anyway, so I've been doing some research in re-sawing.

I don't have a bandsaw, and I don't really want such a big piece of machinery around (nor do I want to carry it up to my attic). I've watched the Woodwright's Shop episode where they're sawing out veneer by hand, but I don't think I could be that good with a rip saw. Plus, those saws can cost more than all of my other tools combined!

So, horizontal frame saws came into the picture. The idea is that with such a large frame, it makes it a lot easier to determine if your saw is straight or not, since your sawing angle is exaggerated at the ends. Has anyone tried these techniques? Anyone built a horizontal frame saw?

http://hyperkitten.com/woodworking/resaw.php
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/32750

I found a kit at Woodworker's supply:
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=900-335&LARGEVIEW=Off
Since I don't have a hand-saw to cut up for the blade, the idea of having a kit with everything I need is intriguing. Anyone try this kit before? Does it come with the blade?

Or, anyone with other neanderthal re-saw suggestions?
 

SubGuy

New User
Zach
Another option for re-sawing is using a combination of your table saw and a rip saw. Cut both sides of the board on the table saw then clamp and finish with the rip saw. Use a planer or hand plane to smooth and make final thickness. You have to be careful that you cut exactly the same with the table saw. But it virtually eliminates having to worry about straightness.
 

jarrett

New User
Jarrett
I picked up the kit sold by Woodworkers Supply. It's on clearance for $15. I was disappointed. It has a hex head bolt, a length of 1/2" threaded rod, washers and wingnuts and two small bolts to hold the blade to the larger bolts. It also has about 5' of 1 1/4" bandsaw blade. The bandsaw is a 3TPI hook configuration that looks like it would be a bear to get started. You still have to slot the bolts yourself and I'd rather use a carriage bolt than a hex head. Best bet as I see it is to order a blade from Highland @$8 and go the Borg for the bolts.

Thanks for being the guinea pig, Ed! Guess I'll go the blade route too from Highland. I tried looking in Woodcraft, but they didn't seem to have one locally, and the one on their website was 24tpi anyway.

We'll have to get a group buy together since the folks at Highland want $6 to ship a single blade all the way from Atlanta...
 

CatButler

New User
Bryan
Wow, I just watched one of the videos in the original post. That guy made resawing look easy. I have a 28" bow saw (This one in fact http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_126_570/products_id/2035) that I thought I could use to resaw, but it is a beast to handle and balance. The center mounted blade looks much easier to balance.

I think I should set mine up so the motion is up and down, that way the weight of the saw is working for me. I just need to figure out how to set that up on my bench. That said, I would love to try building a frame saw.
 

rgmcnabb

New User
Ryan
Frame saws can be great but you will be glad of a partner to help guide the cut and keep on track.

The frame saw's great benefit is its ability to cut a radius, not something you want resawing 12" wide boards. With a wide blade, say 2" or so, and a good frame, and a wise and willing partner, you could probably resaw anything. I was like you in my hesitance to get a bandsaw, but man are they ever nice!
 

Dean Maiorano

New User
Dino
Jarrett,

Thanks for posting this, I was considering building a frame saw myself recently. Now I have more 'frame of reference' with which to work!

Nice picture Andy, you and none other than the Godfather of Hand Tool Revival himself! Thanks for the input, I think I'll try the rip saw and see how it goes. I've heard it said many a time that reliance on our power tools is what makes it hard to pick up those skills and that once you try and do, it's easier than we think.

Dean
 

michaelgarner

Michael
Senior User
I have plans to build one of these panels saws when I get back from my deployment.

http://hyperkitten.com/woodworking/frame_saw.php3

A generous member from this site sent me a bandsaw blade piece just for this purpose (and some off cuts so that I can fix my Bailey handles as well. )

I also purchased one of these bow saws from traditional woodworker, with three different blades.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Frame-Saw-28-with-Two-Blades/productinfo/547-2544/

But after getting it I am glad that I didn't order a second saw frame, its a simple design I just made another one for the rip blade that I ordered so that I have one for rip and crosscut. The saws work wonderfully, the blades are from Germany as well, (Go figure i ordered it from the states and it is made in Germany where I am stationed at) They handle smaller resawing well, but not large stuff. That is why I am gong to make the frame saw that I posted above. Hope this helps, have a blessed day friend.

P.S. If you can wait a month or two I know a guy by the name of MichaelGarner that could kick you out a frame once he is home for free. Thats if you choose to wait.
 

Dean Maiorano

New User
Dino
Michael,

God bless you for your service to our great country! Good luck building the replacement when you get back, keep us posted, I'd like to see pics.

Dean
 

rgmcnabb

New User
Ryan
Of course it's important to keep in mind that a panel saw and a frame saw are different. I'm not sure I'm clear on which is which. In my mind I think of a "panel" saw as have the blade in the middle with a box frame on either side (like in the hyperkitten blog above). Frame saws strike me as being large, aggressive bow saws as in Michael's other link. Then there are the panel saws that have a handle at one end like Wenzloff and Medallion sell, and I have seen large aggressive cross cut hand saws with one wooden handle referred to as "framing" saws for use in timber framing for quick fitting of joints. It gets confusing.

I think the center-blade, box frame saw would be great for resawing, but I've used them and they're pretty useless unless you have someone else to grab the other end. A large bow saw, with the blade turned 90 degrees, could also work, but I've tried it and it's miserable to use. If I had help in the shop, I'd make a good long box frame saw for all sorts of things I use a bandsaw for now, including cutting rifle stock blanks out of 4" thick maple. But working by myself, it quickly becomes a comedy of errors and I fire up the bandsaw. Guilty as charged. :embaresse
 

CatButler

New User
Bryan
I got the 28" bigger brother of saw you have on order. It's a bear to use horizontally at least. Too hard to control. I have used a smaller 12" turning bow saw with good success. I have seen videos of Krenov using one where the board is held down on a bench and he is ripping vertically on the down stroke. He's gripping it two handed by the frame and pushing it down. It may be easier to control that way. I just need to figure out how to set that up. My saw bench is too short to support that but my work bench may be too high.
 
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