Rant

[Larry Rose]

I am almost done with my second and last piece using ash. This stuff works like a dream but I can't get the stinking wood to take a finish without blotching terribly. The first project was a glass front cabinet and I used gell stain on it with less than go desirable results. This one is a sideboard (Pics later) that I used a conditioner on and then an oil stain with the same results. I guess a clear finish or paint would work, but basicly I think ash should be left to baseball bats and firewood:tongue2:. Has any one had better results?

 

[zapdafish]

I used several coats of sanding sealer and a minwax gel stain when I used ash. I didn't have any problems with blotching but I did hate using the gel stain.

 

[Larry Rose]

Steve, you've got me beat hands down. I must not be using enough conditioner

 

[TracyP]

The end tables I made a few years ago were done with ash. I used a self made danish oil mix.Blo, Mineral spirits, and poly mixed in thirds. Finished off with Johnsons paste wax.

 

[zapdafish]

I just got lucky and followed the instructions on the can. I also tested out the process on some scrap. Using the gel was the worst, took me awhile to get used to it.

Steve, you've got me beat hands down. I must not be using enough conditioner

 

[Cato]

Larry, I made a work table top out of ash, and finished it with several coats of Danish oil and then Johnson's paste wax and it seemed to do quite well with that.

I am not super skilled with finishing though so I weinie out and use some of the more porous woods for staining and use natural finishes on the really hard woods.

 

[Trent Mason]

Larry,

I made a coffee table out of Ash about two years ago. The top is finished with bar top epoxy. The skirt and legs were finished with poly.

View image in gallery​

That epoxy will make your driveway look good. :rotflm:

 

[Larry Rose]

Thanks guys. Maybe I expected too much as I was shooting for a darker color. Your more natural finishes look good. Then again it could be that I hate finishing and never seem to get it just right:BangHead:

 

[Jeff]

Thanks guys. Maybe I expected too much as I was shooting for a darker color. Your more natural finishes look good. Then again it could be that I hate finishing and never seem to get it just right:BangHead:

Larry,

Your disdain for finishing may have become your own worst enemy. You deserve better after all of that hard work. :evil:

What is the "conditioner" that you used? Gel stains are supposed to be pretty forgiving on blotch prone woods as long as you work small areas and thoroughly wipe it off before it begins to dry. Then move on to the next section and do the same in increments. If it dries too much before wiping then the end result could appear blotchy.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30460

Maybe take a representative scrap piece of your beloved ash and first apply a 1# cut wash coat of Zinsser SealCoat (100% dewaxed shellac). Then apply your gel stain and wipe like a bandit (1 or 2 coats?)! Then apply the finish coats of your choice.

It'd be informative to see your pics that highlight your problem/frustration. :icon_scra

 

[FredP]

that'll teach ya to stain pretty wood.:rotflm: just kidding. when I stain light collored wood [not often] I use plain old minwacks oil stain. soak it down and wipe off imediately [regardless of what the can says]:gar-Bi If I want darker I repeat the process. I have found that if I want to [or have to] stain it helps to sand more than I would for clear finishes. I sand to 400 grit and don't skip any grits. it makes the stain not penetrate as far but it takes the stain more evenly. YMMV.:icon_thum

 

[Larry Rose]

Larry,

Your disdain for finishing may have become your own worst enemy. You deserve better after all of that hard work. :evil:

What is the "conditioner" that you used? Gel stains are supposed to be pretty forgiving on blotch prone woods as long as you work small areas and thoroughly wipe it off before it begins to dry. Then move on to the next section and do the same in increments. If it dries too much before wiping then the end result could appear blotchy.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30460

Maybe take a representative scrap piece of your beloved ash and first apply a 1# cut wash coat of Zinsser SealCoat (100% dewaxed shellac). Then apply your gel stain and wipe like a bandit (1 or 2 coats?)! Then apply the finish coats of your choice.

It'd be informative to see your pics that highlight your problem/frustration. :icon_scra

Jeff, I used Minwax Prestain Conditioner and Minwax Early American Oil Stain. I did a test piece that looked great but there is too much varience in the wood to use oil stain. Next time I'll try gell. Here is an example of what I am talking about.

View image in gallery​

 

[JackLeg]

Larry, I share your "disdain" for finishing. I'm nowhere near your skill levels:nah: (you are one of my idols!) but I hate to do a decent job on one of my simple undertakings only to screw it up trying to put some kind of "finish" on it! :embarrassed:

 

[Jeff]

Jeff, I used Minwax Prestain Conditioner and Minwax Early American Oil Stain. I did a test piece that looked great but there is too much varience in the wood to use oil stain. Next time I'll try gell. Here is an example of what I am talking about.

View image in gallery​

Larry,

Thanks for the pic. I see what you're talking about. +1 to the comments made by other members.

You gave it a good shot and your test piece looked good, but Murphy's Law prevailed as it usually does. Don't despair, it's still a nice looking piece. How many folks besides you have noticed your "finishing" signature"? :dontknow: Count them on one hand or less perhaps!