Opinion on Walker Turner

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JohnW

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John
Anyone ever seen or used this scroll saw? It was mfg in approx 1953, maybe on the same day I was manufactured...:lol: so we could be twins??? I was able to find a manual and exploded view parts list on OWWM so I know more about her innards than my own.

It was left to me by my FIL, who got it when his father passed, so it's staying in our family. He mostly used it to cut metal with abrasive blades. A quick going over shows that it still works well. It will need a good cleaning, rust removal etc...but mechanically it seems fine.

I've never used a scroll saw so I'm not in a position to judge. So my question is...
Is this saw something an experienced scroller would like to have/use?

It tilts both ways, is VERY heavy and has no noticeable vibration when running. Throat is 24" and the blower still works.

The blades are not "quick change" but not too difficult to get to. He used BIG blades on it relative to what I've seen at woodworking shows.

As I said, it will be cleaned up and kept in the family but I was wondering...thinking....considering...:eusa_thin climbing into the scroll saw abyss and would like to know if this is worth a tear down and spending money & time to get it in tip top shape or just clean it up.

Any and all opinions or comments welcome. Except wisecracks about us being the same age and it being in better shape. :eusa_naug
 

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JimmyC

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Jimmy
I have an old Delta (institutional machine) that is a lot like your machine, it's really not good as a scrollsaw in the true sense. I use it alot for shaping wood (much like a bandsaw) and rough cutting scrollwork, If you have the room, it is a nice addition to the bandsaw and scrollsaw, but IMHO it can't replace either. But, it is a nice old machine.

Jimmy:)
 

nelsone

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Ed
Looks like a neat piece of ol' arn! I'd think it would be worth getting it running and see what you think!
 

Ray Martin

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Ray
IMHO, the old iron is ALWAYS worth getting, restoring, keeping. All the more so if it's something thats been in the family for generations.

Ray
 

sawduster

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Robert
Man that is too kewl !! :eusa_clap 24" throat and variable speed. I think you should restore it just for GP. It would definitely be useful in a shop, like a small band saw with better blade control :icon_thum
Thanx for sharing the pics !
 

Hook

New User
Gregory
I also have an old Delta Milwaukee, variable speed belt drive (with a cover over the pulleys) with a similar spring like concept - I don't use it for fine scroll work (too much play in the blades), but my grandad really knew how to use the thing way back in the day.
 

JohnW

New User
John
Folks, I'm bumping this thread in search of a little more info...

Looking at Marks recently acquired Hawk scroll saw...(You SUCK Mark)

This is one of the machines I've seen and been impressed with at some shows. Can anyone discuss differences between these modern top-of-the-line saws and my older style pictured at the front of this thread? What's the Hawk got that the old saw doesn't?

Jimmy has a similar old saw but it's "not a scroll saw in the true sense" Jimmy, (or anyone)...can you explain what features a modern scroll saw has that the old one doesn't?

Greg states "too much play in the blade" for fine scroll work. Not sure what this means...Are the blades longer or more flexible? Or are there issues with the way the blades are attached and held on the older saws?

Greg & Jimmy, I appreciate your info but my pea brain is not comprehending. Having never used a scroll saw, I'm running blind. I'm keeping the old saw...I'm cleaning it up...BUT what I'm trying to determine is...If I "restore" the saw back to original specs, is it a scroll saw that an experienced artisan (Like Cathy or Scroller) would enjoy using? Or is it just too big and clunky to perform the delicate tasks. (clunky: Leave it to Beaver technical term)

Just to clarify...My definition of "restore" involves a complete breakdown and replacement of parts..linkages, bearings, bushings etc...It's a major job. The saw works just the way it is so I'm trying to determine if it's worth my time to restore it or just clean it up.

Thanks for the help.
John W
 

Hook

New User
Gregory
John, the tensioner in that system is a spring. Modern Scroll saws allow for much tighter tension on the blade, in fact I'm used to saws that I can play a tune on a very taut blade. This is just not the case with the spring system in my Delta Milwaukee and shown in your saw, which was probably state of the art for its day and not a bad find at all. I get frustrated with my Delta Milwaukee because of the blade tension - and maybe it's the user (me) and not the machine. It might just be that I need someone to help me set the machine up correctly to get better tension on the blade (and thus, less play while cutting).
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
John,

I got what I consider a great deal on my saw, it's around a 1960 Rockwell model, I paid $100 for it and it was an already refurbished saw. The OWWM manual on my saw is listed below. I've only owned it for about 6 months now, but I've enjoyed it. It's definitely not what you would want for fine cuts, but general cuts it works great on. I've cut 6/4 White Oak on it and had no problem. It doesn't have as much control as a good scroll saw (I've used my FIL's Hegner) but it has much more control than my Grizzly bandsaw. I've got the room, so I keep it around. I use my bandsaw mostly for resawing, my old scrollsaw for shaping, and an inexpensive Delta 16" (I really do need to replace it) for anything finer that I need, very little blade changing. I'm not a scroller, nor do I pretend to be one. So, so far everything has worked out well for me.

Jimmy:)

http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Delta/1962-24ScrollSaw.pdf
 

JohnW

New User
John
Jimmy & Greg

Thanks for the info. Based on this I took another look at the tensioning and the spring / eccentric lobe configuration. My light bulb came on...
:widea:

I have the O&M for this saw and it actually had some accessories available, none of which I have. The bottom assembly had optional saber saw, router & disc sander attachments. The upper arm rotates left or right to get it out of the way when routing or sanding.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain further.
John W
 
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