I need help making a good miter with a cross cut saw. I have tried this for years now and still can't seem to get a decent miter. There must be a secret that someone can share. I searched the web earlier this evening. One thought was to make sure I had a good fine tooth blade in the saw. My saw sits lower than the sides of my table and I have a rail in which to clamp down a stop. I think one of my problems is movement while the cut is being made. How can I hold the piece securely during the cut? :gar-Cr
Miter cuts for picture frames
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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That maybe what is on my tablesaw as well. I may just give you a shout. I have a super sled that came with my tablesaw but I haven't figured it out yet. Guess I need to get some hands on, thanks for the offer, I will let you know.
Inca or IncRa? I'm not aware of Inca having any well known or popular miter gauges. :wink_smil
I have the Incra 1000SE miter guage, which I highly recommend. Once you have it tuned for your saw you can generate repeatable cuts with up to 0.1deg accuracy. It includes fixed stops every 5 degrees (plus 22.5deg) and a vernier scale for setting up angles in between stops. The miter fence has adjustable stops for repeatable cut lengths and fixed 1/32" adjustment steps (with the ability to further fine tune in sub-1/32" steps).
If you have an even greater budget you can opt for Incra's 1000HD model which has fixed stops every 1deg (plus 22.5deg) plus a vernier for custom angles with 0.1deg accuracy.
Both models can be adapted to left and right tilt table saws. Out of the box they are setup for right-tilt saws. However the fence setup can be easily disassembled and reversed for optimal use with left-tilt saws (as well as for bandsaw use).
I have 2 of the Incra 1000SE miter gauges, one for my left-tilt tablesaw and a second for my bandsaw. I may eventually purchase a third for my router table (which uses a right-tilt configuration).
The typical miter gauge that ships with most table saws is really only meant for approximate cut angles in construction. With a lot of setup it is possible to get them precisely setup for a specific angle (most will keep them fixed at 90deg) but it requires a good deal of adjustment to set them up for another angle. Most also have some free play within the table's miter slots that further throws off angle settings unless the user has corrected the play with a center punch and ball peen hammer.
HTH
Lorraine,
If you'll PM me with your email address I can share some information about a homemade sled that cuts complimentary angles. So even if they're a tad off, the sum of the two will still be 90 degrees. Minor fine tuning, if necessary, can be done with a well tuned block plane.
I have almost bought a lion miter trimmer probably 13 times. One day I will own one. They produce the slickest miter joints of most any tool. I want one. there was one in the classified ads a few weeks ago, too bad the cash flow didn't allow the purchase:nah:. One day though:wink_smil.
Sometimes the force of cross-cutting with a miter saw will make the wood slide into the blade (especially when making a strong angle like a 45 degree), resulting in an uneven cut. Putting some 80 grit PSA sandpaper on the fence or the table will help secure the piece.
Chopping straight down instead of sliding into the wood (for a sliding miter saw) also reduces the movement, especially if you have the wood clamped.
Putting a zero clearance fence insert (straight piece on the fence secured on both sides and then cut through at the angle wanted) will give better support to the work as its cut by filling up the gap in the manufacturer's fence, especially if it is narrow or thin wood.
This "sliding" can also occur with a table saw miter gauge (even an Incra, Osborne, etc), so an abrasive surface on the fence helps with that also.
Just some ideas. Hope they help.
Go
Chopping straight down instead of sliding into the wood (for a sliding miter saw) also reduces the movement, especially if you have the wood clamped.
Putting a zero clearance fence insert (straight piece on the fence secured on both sides and then cut through at the angle wanted) will give better support to the work as its cut by filling up the gap in the manufacturer's fence, especially if it is narrow or thin wood.
This "sliding" can also occur with a table saw miter gauge (even an Incra, Osborne, etc), so an abrasive surface on the fence helps with that also.
Just some ideas. Hope they help.
Go
My vote goes for making a dedicated miter sled for your table saw. There are many plans out there. If you want a prepaid one, I suggest the Dubby from In-Line Industries (in-lineindustries.com). Jerrry Cole, the inventor, demonstrates them at the Wood Working Show. I resisted buying one for years, and finally bit the bullet and bought one. Wish I had done it years earlier.
Actually, with respect to the Incra 1000SE/HD (which is what I own), the 'sliding' described above is not an issue when utilizing the fence stops. There is no need for an abrasive to be attached to the fence in normal operation (incl. miters). For cuts longer than the primary fence, the end portion telescopes out for extended lengths of 30+", so the stop can still be properly engaged.
It can be an issue if you dont bother to set the stop(s), but it is my normal SOP to secure each board against the stop to ensure consistent part lengths -- why invest in a good miter gauge/fence if not to take advantage of its capabilities. Accurate miters only fit together properly when the individual sides are of uniform length!
I know some consider these aftermarket miter gauge/fence setups to be costly, but they can often be found on sale for considerably less (the Incra 1000SE can often be found for as little as $100-120). If you routinely cut angles with your miter gauge, then a good quality miter gauge can be a lifesaver. Added features like builtin fence stop [blocks] and telescoping fences for longer cuts help ensure uniform parts lengths -- even for 90deg crosscuts. The repeatable accuracy of these miter gauges can also be a lifesaver if you accidentally ruin a prior workpiece and need to create a duplicate part -- the repeatability allows you to create a perfect replacement piece without a lot of fuss or setup time.
For those who prefer to build jigs instead, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that -- there are a lot of wonderful jig designs out there these days. Some of us don't have a lot of room for storing jigs and the functionality provided by these commercial miter gauges fill a niche that would typically be filled by numerous individual jigs.
Just my $0.02
This is my favorite. Won't twist at
the pivot point, no racking in the miter slot and the work is clamped solid. With a good adjustable right triangle, I can set the miter exactly. From Wood Magazine plans.
the pivot point, no racking in the miter slot and the work is clamped solid. With a good adjustable right triangle, I can set the miter exactly. From Wood Magazine plans.
It's called the ' Universal Tablesaw Jig' or sled. I loaned the mag copy a couple of years ago...
Chris.
I built the same jig (w/Joe's help) awhile ago.:icon_thum:icon_thum
It was in the December 1996 issue of Wood magazine.
Wayne
(PM sent.)
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I was given a super sled by the previous owner of my Craftsman tablesaw which he had made. I am making to stops and hold downs now and will use it for my miter cuts if it works as well as they say it does. It's large and very heavy for my hands but made very well. It's a tight fit going across the table so I guess that will need some attention. I will let you know how it turns out. I would never have put the time needed into this jig but time will tell if it's a keeper.
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