Looking for tips on insulating gagage doors

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John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
I am slowly improving the garage/workshop. It is a two car garage and I want to insulate the two roll up garage doors. They are 9' wide segmented roll up doors. There are 4 panels per door about 20" tall and 9' wide. The inset seems to be a thin MDF that does a poor job of insulating.

I have thought about the Styrofoam like SAPWOOD has in the inside of his shop doors (if I remember right). The 4'x8'x2" sheets are $24 at Lowe's or BORG. I have also thought about fiberglass stapled on with the paper out.

Anybody got any good or bad ideas?

Thanks

John
 
T

toolferone

I would go with the Styrofoam wrapped foil. It will help reflect heat back in the shop. I think it would hold up much better then fiberglass.
 

John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
Thanks Tom. It would also reflect the heat from the afternoon sun back out in the summer. Where can I get this?
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
My Dad used the pink sheets of styrofoam as well with pretty good results. I've never seen it foil lined before but it sounds like a good idea.
 

thrytis

New User
Eric
My doors had a 1.5" space in them, so i went with 1" of blue styrofoam and 1/2" of foil faced styrofoam. Together it should be about R7. If i could have found 1.5" styrofoam to start with i probably would have just done that, but i think it was better with the two pieces because i could bend them easier and get a tighter fit. These are just held in by pressure - no adhesive needed.

This does add significant weight so i'm going to have to get my spring adjusted, and possibly replaced or augmented because there is only one on there now. I haven't looked into that part yet as my wife will be able to park in my shop once i get it adjusted. :eusa_whis

Another thing i considered was the foil covered "bubble wrap". It may not have require adjusting the spring. It would have been quicker to put up and cheaper for the materials too.

Does anyone know if there is a building code concern about styrofoam on the door since it isn't fire resistant?
 

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sapwood

New User
Roger
. . . .
I have thought about the Styrofoam like SAPWOOD has in the inside of his shop doors (if I remember right). . . .
Thanks

John

Good idea John! But my door interiors are sheetrock with R-??? (cheap) insulation stapled in. :eusa_whis

But don't worry, I'm sure your memory is fine :cool:

Roger
 

sawman

New User
Albert
With regards to fire codes, if this is a private residence it is not required. The majority of fire codes for doors, structural steel and walls/ceilings are for commerical and idustrial buildings. When I built my detached garage with an apartment above it (never do that,it limits your time in the shop ) I had to install 5/8 fire rock in the ceiling of the garage and the stairwell walls to meet the code.

Albert

:saw:
 

Douglas Robinson

Doug Robinson
Corporate Member
As the photo below shows I used the blue styrofoam from Lowes. I thought it was less than $24/ sheet. (Like 1/2 that). It has worked well keeping the shop warm this winter. I'll let you know next summer how it does.

Doug

 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
With regards to fire codes, if this is a private residence it is not required. The majority of fire codes for doors, structural steel and walls/ceilings are for commerical and idustrial buildings.
<snip>
I am not sure that this is true, although I could certainly be wrong.

My understanding is that res. building codes require that foam insulation be covered unless explicitly rated for exposed applications.

For example, Owens-Corning says this about residential use of their polystyrene foamboard product:
"NOTE: Although it does contain a flame-retardant additive to inhibit ignition from small fire sources, if exposed to fire of sufficient heat and intensity, FOAMULAR Insulation will ignite. Do not expose the product to open flame during shipping, storage, installation or use. In most applications, a code-compliant thermal barrier must be used to separate FOAMULAR Insulation from the building interior. See “Conditions of Use” section of ICC ES Report 96-24 for application covering recommendations."


I too am planning to add foamboard to the garage-doors in my shop and home, but will use either rated foamboard e.g. Dow Thermax or paint the insulation with a fire-retardant coating.


-Mark

 

wayne

New User
wayne
I'm with Mark on the fire rating, most foam boards should be covered with fireproof material if used in residential settings also. you should check with your local building inspector to be sure. Could be an issue with insurance coverage if ever have a fire.

Wayne
 
J

jeff...

Duct Tape - you know the saying if you can't _ _ _ _ it, duct it :icon_thum
 

thrytis

New User
Eric
I too am planning to add foamboard to the garage-doors in my shop and home, but will use either rated foamboard e.g. Dow Thermax or paint the insulation with a fire-retardant coating.

Mark, do you have a product name or link to the fire-retardant paint coating? I've heard it referenced before, but i haven't been able to find any information about it.

Thanks!
 

John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
I ended up using the foil backed foam board from Lowe's. I used the 1/2" thick (about $9) and cut it so it would fit in the panels in the door. Fastened it with construction adhesive, ran out and used latex caulk. I did put the foil side out, against the door to keep the harsh summer sun from heating the garage/shop so much.

Then I used a duct wrapping over the top of it all with the foil on the inside. I stapled through duct tape as the foil does not hold a staple well. I was able to make a continuous run from top to bottom by leaving a fold where the panels separate when the door goes up. I taped the edges together to keep out the air. It has worked well. Also hot water wrapping may work well also. It has foil on both sides but you may need two or more for a garage door.

The foil on the inside should handle any code issues.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
I ended up using the foil backed foam board from Lowe's. <snip>The foil on the inside should handle any code issues.
" Notice: Thermal plastic insulations are
combustible and should be protected
from flame and other heat sources. They
should be installed with code —
acceptable, thermal barriers or used in
approved alternative constructions.

Insulfoam shall not be liable for incidental
and consequential damages directly or
indirectly sustained for any loss caused
by application of these goods not in
accordance with current printed product
instruction or for other than the intended use."
..from the Insulfoam R-tech website, makers of the foil-faced polystrene foamboard sold at Lowes.

I thought foil-facing might do the trick too, but it isn't rated for exposed applications. And that's printed right on the material.

FWIW Insulfoam (and others) makes a garage door insulation kit - it can probably be special ordered through Lowes.

All that said, I doubt few if any will ever have a problem using unrated material in this application. I am probably just overly paranoid.

For coatings, I was looking at something like Rosco Flamex or Flamestop IIA.

-Mark
 

John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
Thanks Mark,

I wish I knew about the garage door insulation kit earlier. Where did you find that information?

John
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
There is a product out there called Tiger Foam (tigerfoam.com). It is closed cell poluurethane (no formaldehyde) spray, cames prepackaged with nozzle etc.
Seems to be pretty cool product. I am planning to order some and try it for hard to reach places. Up to very recently, that type of product was only available through installers.

Bernhard
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
Thanks for the lead, Bernhard, That is probably what I will use when I insulate the shop, considering drywall was hung, and painted, before I bought the house 12 years ago, not looking forward to tearing out to insulate. With the Slow-rise version of TigerFoam, my shop will be better insulated than the house!

Tiger Foam Insulation
 
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Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
Pete,
Another option is blowing in cellulose into finished walls. No need to tear out sheetrock. Just drill 2, 3" holes with a hole saw (1 top and 1 bottom, blow it in and cap the hole. It's about 1/6th the cost of the foam, fireproof and Lowe's and Home Depot will loan you the blower.
 
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