How to estimate 2x4 for framing walls?

[Douglas Robinson]

Anyone know a guide or quick rule to estimate the amount of wood to frame internal walls. Obviously the height and length of the walls matter and the distance between studs is crucial (16"). Plus whether there are doorways. I am wondering if there is a rough way to estimate the number of boards with an assumed amount of cut-off waste.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[DaveO]

I have alway heard to get 1 l.f. of 2 x 4 studs per every square foot of wall. I have never put that theory to test...so YMMV.
Dave

 

[walnutjerry]

Anyone know a guide or quick rule to estimate the amount of wood to frame internal walls. Obviously the height and length of the walls matter and the distance between studs is crucial (16"). Plus whether there are doorways. I am wondering if there is a rough way to estimate the number of boards with an assumed amount of cut-off waste.

Thanks,

Doug

Doug----------take the length of the wall and convert to inches, divide by 16, add 1, that will give you the number of studs for a solid wall. If you need top and bottom plates (which you probably do) multiply the length of the wall by 3-------that will give you linear footage for a single bottom plate and double top plate. You may be able to do with a single top plate if it is going in an existing building with a ceiling and is not a load bearing wall. Add 4 studs for each door to use for jack studs (studs that come up under the door header) and doubling the jamb studs that go full height. All these pieces will be 2x4. I like to use at least a 2x6 for the door header, if it is load bearing I use a 2x10 for the header. Headers can be made like a box beam from 2x4.

Hope this helps-----It may be good to check your local building code also.

Jerry

 

[Joe Scharle]

1 per linear foot (allows for corners)+ 2 for each opening (allows for king/jack + waste). Get the longest offered for top & bottom plates and stagger the joints if double plating. Plates meet on a stud, so some waste is unavoidable. Studs will have bow and twist, so if you're buying by the bundle order 10% more.
Joe

 

[Ray Martin]

Doug----------take the length of the wall and convert to inches, divide by 16, add 1, that will give you the number of studs for a solid wall. If you need top and bottom plates (which you probably do) multiply the length of the wall by 3-------that will give you linear footage for a single bottom plate and double top plate. You may be able to do with a single top plate if it is going in an existing building with a ceiling and is not a load bearing wall. Add 4 studs for each door to use for jack studs (studs that come up under the door header) and doubling the jamb studs that go full height. All these pieces will be 2x4. I like to use at least a 2x6 for the door header, if it is load bearing I use a 2x10 for the header. Headers can be made like a box beam from 2x4.

Hope this helps-----It may be good to check your local building code also.

Jerry

Doug,

I think Jerry gave you good instruction on counting the sticks. If you have a penetration (e.g., door, window) that is 6 feet or more, you have to have two jack studs under each end of the header.

If you are installing a non-bearing wall / partition, the door headers can be made from a pair of 2 X 4s. Make sure you continue the 16" on center rule above the header by adding cripple studs between the header and the top plate.

Ray

 

[Gotcha6]

Being a builder myself I usually allow 1 stud per foot. A quick way to estimate studs on an uninterrupted (no openings) wall is to multiply the length by 3/4 & round up. But for regular walls 1 stud per foot will give you enough for jacks & jack studs, headers, & the occasional crooked stud. For shoes & plates order lengths of 8, 12, or 16 feet to avoid waste & join on the stud. Just double the length for single plate top & triple it for double plate top. Remeber - round UP. It'll save you a trip back. I'm assuming since you said interior walls that you're going to be framing in an existing space. If that space has trusses and the wall isn't load bearing then no structural headers are required but it still pays to double the studs at the doors to avoid a wall rattle every time you slam a door.

 

[Nativespec]

Use 1 stud per linear foot.

David