Supplies - picture (one you have permission to use), 1/4" BB or Finnish (similar dimension) plywood, saw blades (FD puzzle blades or 1/0 or 2/0 reverse tooth), some type of adhesive (see discussion below), sand paper, top coat if desired.
Steps to cut jigsaw puzzles:
There are several types of puzzles - tray puzzles which require two pieces of wood, 3-D puzzles or regular interlocking puzzles.
1. Choose a photo. I am using some of my own pictures. Remember copyrights if you use pictures from calendars or other publications. Don't completely crop the picture - you will want some edges to aid in handling the photo between applying the glue and applying the picture.
2. Choose your paper. I prefer photo paper because it is more durable than regular copy paper. I have used card stock paper, mostly with success, but it can separate while cutting due to its construction. Copy the image (if you don't want to use your original).
3. Sand both sides of the plywood. Several puzzle cutters prefer Finnish ply to BB because they feel it is constructed better. I happen to have a lot of BB, so I will be using that. Today was the first time the I experienced the layers splitting. Examine the wood and pick the less desirable side to glue the picture to - remember the back of the wood will be seen and the front will not. Cut the wood larger than the picture so that you have room to hold the piece while cutting the pattern.
4. Adhere the picture to the wood. I've used spray adhesive, craft glue and with ModgePodge (I haven't cut these two yet). So far I like the spray - spraying both the back of the picture and the wood. If you use the spray be sure to get the air pockets out as you apply the picture. if you use any glue be sure to watch for air bubbles that might form for about 20 minutes. Here's the difficult part - wait 24 hours for the glue to completely dry.
5. Optional - spray a clear coat finish to the uncut puzzle. It can be matte, satin or gloss. If you are using card stock you probably need to use a coat. Photo's optional. The risk for uncoated photo's is that they can get scratched torn...
6. Cut the puzzle. There are several methods available - choose one or several:
a) Cut the puzzle free-hand (my preference). Start at a corner and cut the first couple of pieces on each side and at least one that helps tie them together. Try to keep all pieces interlocking, which is more difficult than it sounds. I recommend practicing on paper before you cut your puzzle to get a handle on the "locks".
b) Use a pattern for the design of the pieces. I don't exactly know how you would attach it (you have to cut from the front so the reverse teeth on the blade keeps the front of the picture neater and helps prevent the picture lifting off the wood. Patterns generally steer you to cut a consistent puzzle - organized into rows and/or diagonals.
c) You can also pick some specific shapes from the picture whether they interlock or not. You can add shapes into some specific shapes (e.g. dolphins, stars...) that you can make into your own style. Keep these to a small number. The surrounding interlocking pieces should hold these shapes in place.
7. Make each piece "lock" into its surrounding pieces.
8. Sand each piece (and look for paper lift-up) as you go. You can wait and do this when you're done, but if it's a large pattern you need to allow the time to put it back together.
8. Sign and date the back of the puzzle. Apply some type of finish (e.g. Tung oil finish) to the backs and edges.
Steps to cut jigsaw puzzles:
There are several types of puzzles - tray puzzles which require two pieces of wood, 3-D puzzles or regular interlocking puzzles.
1. Choose a photo. I am using some of my own pictures. Remember copyrights if you use pictures from calendars or other publications. Don't completely crop the picture - you will want some edges to aid in handling the photo between applying the glue and applying the picture.
2. Choose your paper. I prefer photo paper because it is more durable than regular copy paper. I have used card stock paper, mostly with success, but it can separate while cutting due to its construction. Copy the image (if you don't want to use your original).
3. Sand both sides of the plywood. Several puzzle cutters prefer Finnish ply to BB because they feel it is constructed better. I happen to have a lot of BB, so I will be using that. Today was the first time the I experienced the layers splitting. Examine the wood and pick the less desirable side to glue the picture to - remember the back of the wood will be seen and the front will not. Cut the wood larger than the picture so that you have room to hold the piece while cutting the pattern.
4. Adhere the picture to the wood. I've used spray adhesive, craft glue and with ModgePodge (I haven't cut these two yet). So far I like the spray - spraying both the back of the picture and the wood. If you use the spray be sure to get the air pockets out as you apply the picture. if you use any glue be sure to watch for air bubbles that might form for about 20 minutes. Here's the difficult part - wait 24 hours for the glue to completely dry.
5. Optional - spray a clear coat finish to the uncut puzzle. It can be matte, satin or gloss. If you are using card stock you probably need to use a coat. Photo's optional. The risk for uncoated photo's is that they can get scratched torn...
6. Cut the puzzle. There are several methods available - choose one or several:
a) Cut the puzzle free-hand (my preference). Start at a corner and cut the first couple of pieces on each side and at least one that helps tie them together. Try to keep all pieces interlocking, which is more difficult than it sounds. I recommend practicing on paper before you cut your puzzle to get a handle on the "locks".
b) Use a pattern for the design of the pieces. I don't exactly know how you would attach it (you have to cut from the front so the reverse teeth on the blade keeps the front of the picture neater and helps prevent the picture lifting off the wood. Patterns generally steer you to cut a consistent puzzle - organized into rows and/or diagonals.
c) You can also pick some specific shapes from the picture whether they interlock or not. You can add shapes into some specific shapes (e.g. dolphins, stars...) that you can make into your own style. Keep these to a small number. The surrounding interlocking pieces should hold these shapes in place.
7. Make each piece "lock" into its surrounding pieces.
8. Sand each piece (and look for paper lift-up) as you go. You can wait and do this when you're done, but if it's a large pattern you need to allow the time to put it back together.
8. Sign and date the back of the puzzle. Apply some type of finish (e.g. Tung oil finish) to the backs and edges.
