How I Spent the last six hours

[Hook]

1/4 inch poplar, not a great wood for work that requires much more detail than this (dont' ask me how I know) :nah: Oh, and the reflection of the flash off the saw makes it look like a break in the wood. This is not the case - not broken, just poor picture taking skills.



Time to clean up and go to the store for some AHEM "pop" ccasion1

 

[DaveO]

WOW, that's outstanding. I don't know how y'all scrollers keep them things together. I would look at it funny and it would implode on me :roll:

Dave

 

[TracyP]

Super talented, ditto what Dave said, I would not even have to look at it.

 

[cskipper]

I like it! Where did you get the pattern? How thick is the wood? What kind of blade did you use?

 

[TBone]

Very nice work. I think I would have gone nuts because I don't have that much patience

 

[RayH]

Greg,

I think you have figured out how to use that scroll saw better than I ever did.:icon_scra

Looks like a fine piece of work .:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

RayH

 

[Ncdawgs1882]

Thats great work Greg! Are you gona paint or stain? I like the detail of the flower!:jiggy:

 

[Hook]

Ray, I think it was the saw, not the user. I found myself at the hardware store today buying some bolts to replace the quick change pin that was stripped on the topside. At 20 cents each, I can spend $1 and be sure that about 5 small projects will get completed depending on how quickly the quick change process strips each bolt. Also, this saw's slowest speed is still rather agressive compared to my Craftsman. It's taking a lot of getting used to. The difference maker for me, and HUGE time saver, is the quick release levers and being able to thread and top load every cut without having to ever release the bottom of the blade. That same project on my Craftsman 16" SS would have taken at least twice as long just due to blade change time.

Cathy, I have a couple books full of patterns. That particular one came from a book called 300 Religious and Inspirational Scrollsaw Patterns that I think I got off of Amazon several years ago. The wood was 1/4" poplar and I used a #2 blade at 23 tpi. 3 different drill bits, the smallest being 1mm and that one was tough to thread, even with the #2.

Now, I think I'm going to dig some pain killers out of the medicine cabinet - between my ankle and my back (trying to figure out why scrollsawing hurts my back so much, whether I'm sitting down or standing up) I could use a little relief.

 

[Hook]

I like to leave these things natural and just spray several coats of satin poly on them. I'm not a fan of stains dyes or paints unless I'm trying to match another color or I'm making something that would really demand the color (also read - "I suck wind when it comes to finishing techiniques").

 

[cskipper]

Your back probably hurts because thesaws not at the right height. How to you top thread a blade with it still attached to the bottom clamp?

 

[cskipper]

Does the book list the designer of the pattern?

 

[Trent Mason]

Very nice! :notworthy:

Trent

 

[Hook]

At the moment, I do not know. The book is out on loan to one of the teens in our church while he decides which patterns he wants to cut under my direction. Pray that I will have patience with the boy. He's supposed to be here tomorrow to learn some scrolling techniques.

Right height - how is this determined?

I've removed that adjustable height blade guide (if that's what it's called) to make threading the piece much easier without ever having to undo the bottom clamp. Blade flexibility and size of the piece are factors here but the last two pieces I've done this way and I haven't had issues with the piece flopping up and down on the up stroke of the machine.

 

[Hook]

Thanks y'all for the encouragement.

 

[Tar Heel]

Wow, very impressive. I don't think I have the patience for that type woodworking.

 

[cskipper]

I meant the physical height of the table of the saw compared to your height - are you bending over while you are working? My shoulder was bothering me and I raised the height of the stool I use and do not have the same problem. Another consideration is the height of the light you use, especially if it is a magnifying light. At one point I found myself bending to look through the magnifier- arched not really bent. Try to get everything adjusted so you are standing/sitting as straight (or your usual posture).. Does that make more sense?

 

[LeftyTom]

A fine example of your precise handiwork, Gregory. :icon_thum

 

[sawduster]

Bravo Greg !! :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap Very nicely done !! :icon_thum
We need to get you some of this 1/4" Baltic Birch that I have . The stuff scrolls beautifully and is strong enough for fragile cuts
Being a person who is also " finishing challenged " I am fond of dipping my fretwork in BLO or Danish Oil to make the grain pop , then finishing with Deft spray. Pretty much idiot proof and the results are excellent
There is a thread in this section where I explained it to NCdawgs ....sorry I don't know how to link it :no:

Cathy's advice on posture is spot on. Another thing to consider is how tightly you're holding your shoulders . When I first started I tended to " bunch " my shoulders and use a death grip while feeding . Once I relaxed and let the wood feed itself I had less pain in my back and shoulders . It is so easy to do when concentrating and getting intense with the close cuts

You've done a great job on this piece man .....keep 'em coming ! :icon_thum

PM me if you are interested in some 1/4" BB I have a ton of it and it is dirt cheap :mrgreen:

 

[cskipper]

I'll vouch for the 1/4" BB he has - it's great!