Horizontal Router Table

[Joe Scharle]

I've been wanting another of these for awhile. I made my first sometime in the '80s with a Sears 1/4" router for mortising & tenoning. Still have it, but don't use it after I got a Woodrat. I've been looking at the MLCS horz table but think the table is too small..........
$189.95

........so I built this. Table is 37" X 14".



Scrap + $31.56

 

[Glennbear]

Frugality + great design = great job Joe :wsmile:

 

[Kicbak]

When it comes to jigs I always read your threads. I've been meaning to build a horizontal table as well. The design I'm working on is almost identical to yours. A couple questions for ya..
1) What did you use going through the cross piece for the threaded rod?
2) Did you think about putting the knobs for locking the router plate on the back? I thought about using T-track as well but didn't want to knobs on the front side of the fence. I may embed the tbolts on the front size through a slot on the fence.
3) Use 3/8" acrylic for the plate?
4) Did you know the TPI on the threaded rod? So you can raise it a certain amount per turn, etc??

Looks great! Next time you plan on making some other cool jigs I'd like to come over and make on too. :gar-Bi

Wes

 

[PeteM]

Hey Joe - What does that do that the wood rat doesn't do?
I thought that the feed system on the rat let you do all that stuff.
Just wondering . . .

 

[Joe Scharle]

When it comes to jigs I always read your threads. I've been meaning to build a horizontal table as well. The design I'm working on is almost identical to yours. A couple questions for ya..
Thanks, I hope they have been helpful

1) What did you use going through the cross piece for the threaded rod?
a piece of 1/4" flat steel; bored & tapped for 1/2' threaded rod

2) Did you think about putting the knobs for locking the router plate on the back? I thought about using T-track as well but didn't want to knobs on the front side of the fence. I may embed the the bolts on the front size through a slot on the fence.
No, but I have ordered more of the smaller, round knobs. And I anticipate moving them up an inch to clear my push blocks better. Your idea may work better as reaching around the back is not a problem.

3) Use 3/8" acrylic for the plate?
This is some 1/4" my neighbor had laying around. Who, BTW made the yoke for me.

4) Did you know the TPI on the threaded rod? So you can raise it a certain amount per turn, etc??
It's 1/2 X 13. I use a Wixey digital height gauge to set cutter heights now, so I count cranks to get close to marks on the yoke.

Looks great! Next time you plan on making some other cool jigs I'd like to come over and make on too. :gar-Bi
You're always welcome.

Wes

Joe

 

[Joe Scharle]

Hey Joe - What does that do that the wood rat doesn't do?
I thought that the feed system on the rat let you do all that stuff.
Just wondering . . .

The Woodrat (I have an early edition) is tricky for bit profiles over 3/4" at the extreme OUT position which is fine for any DT bit I have and mine is limited to 31 inches of power feeding. You know what happens when you stop feeding wood past a router bit! However, these vertical panel raising bits I have are well over an inch in dia. And also I had some problems keeping large panels under control on my router table in the vertical.
Then, one of my girls needed a 4ft panel door and that iced it. Rotate the vertical 90deg and let gravity do some of the work.

 

[dpanda]

Nice Router Table! I have a crown molding bit that I've had for years but havn't used. I believe it would be much easier to make the molding with a horizontal router table.

 

[PChristy]

Great job Joe:icon_thum

 

[Trent Mason]

That is awesome Joe! :thumbs_up:thumbs_up

But my neck hurts from trying to look at it. :gar-La;

 

[Canuck]

Really slick, Joe!!!:eusa_danc:eusa_danc

You gone 'n done it again!!!:wsmile::wsmile::wsmile:

Sure looks a lot more substantial than the MLCS version. (And a lot less $$$'s too.)

I'll be by soon to see a demo.:gar-Bi

Wayne

 

[Joe Scharle]

Nice Router Table! I have a crown molding bit that I've had for years but havn't used. I believe it would be much easier to make the molding with a horizontal router table.

Bring it by and we'll test it out.

 

[skysharks]

Great Job Joe!!:notworthy:

I like your feed direction indicator. I would need that for sure. I would be so used to feeding in the opposite direction, that I'm sure I would have a panel being launched across the shop:embaresse.

Every time I am in the shop and have to make a new jig or table, I think of how you would do it.
I do thank you for the trips that I have made to your shop and what I learned.
Just wish that I didn't live so far away.

 

[JimD]

Looks great. Mine is much simpler. I took a sink cutout, put a hole in it for bit clearance, drilled some holes to mount one of my PC690 routers, drilled one hole for a stationary pivot, and cut an arced slot for the other side. I mount it to the back of my mainly vertical router table. I had to shim it a bit (with old business cards) to get it square to the table but it works well now.

Jim

 

[Joe Scharle]

Great idea Jim. How 'bout some pics?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Thanks for the kind words, Mac.
And YES, I almost did IT. However, I was prepared to claim it was a safety test!