Hardening the surface of wood?

[hockey1]

Now I'm not looking for a miracle here, just curious if there is anything out there that can harden the surface of yellow pine (even if just a little bit) without applying a film finish. I am using glued pine (its what I have on hand) for an outfeed table that will occasionally see double use as a workbench/assembly table.

 

[Howard Acheson]

No, there is no "wood hardener" you could use. Even if you were willing to apply a film finish, any finish applied on top of a soft wood like pine would still be very subject to dings and scratches. If you are committed to the pine, use a exterior/marine poly varnish. Exterior finishes are formulated to be more flexible and softer. This allows them to remain adhered when subjected to rapid and large changes in temperature and humidity. Given that your wood substrate is soft, you want a finish that will "give" under a ding without cracking or crazing. A harder and less flexible interior finish will not maintain its integrity when dinged.

 

[CDPeters]

How 'bout surfacing with some laminate or 1/8" masonite hardboard? Or 1/8" plexiglass?

 

[bobby g]

How 'bout surfacing with some laminate or 1/8" masonite hardboard? Or 1/8" plexiglass?

+1... or 1/4" MDF. I just apply shellac and renew it as needed.

bobby g

 

[merrill77]

Now I'm not looking for a miracle here, just curious if there is anything out there that can harden the surface of yellow pine (even if just a little bit) without applying a film finish. I am using glued pine (its what I have on hand) for an outfeed table that will occasionally see double use as a workbench/assembly table.

Is it SYP (Southern Yellow Pine)? Because that is frequently used for workbenches without any special treatment. If you want it harder, your best bet is to overlay something that meets your needs - a layer of IPE should do it! Personally, I prefer my workbench to be softer than what I'm working on. I don't mind dents in the bench, but hate them in the leg I just finished tapering and mortising and then dropped on the edge of the workbench!

Here is one (of many) ranking of wood hardnesses:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

 

[hockey1]

Thanks to all that have replied. Your answers are what I had assumed them to be. Sometimes ya just got to take a shot in the dark. :wsmile: The thought of purposely having my table softer than my projects had never occurred to me. In fact the more I think about it, I like it more and more. If I don't like how the pine is working I will probably cover it with MDF cause its cheap and easier to renew than laminate (I think).

 

[Bas]

Another thought is to use some leftover laminate flooring. Click it together, trim, and fasten to your outfeed table. It's cheap and super durable. You could also use some laminate, but that's not cheap unless you can find a bargain sheet because it has a damaged corner.

 

[Glennbear]

I would consider a removable overlay of hardboard. It has a dense slick surface for outfeed use and wood glue does not adhere well to it. I used a sheet on my main workbench fastened down with countersunk deck screws and when it gets too dinged up I can just change it. :wsmile:

 

[hockey1]

All good ideas coming in. When I read about the laminate floor, I immediately thought my animals trying to beat feet across the floor. :rotflm: If it can handle their claws as well as all of the dirt and sand from the bottom of my shoes and still be slick and unscathed. It may make for an excellent fence face as well.

 

[Truefire]

you could build a small form around this newly built top and pour a bar top epoxy about an inch or so deep into your form that would be around for eons

something such as clear coat bar top epoxy

it would be cheaper though i believe to install a sheet of Medium Density Fiberboard upon it and glue that baby down really well

chris

 

[Truefire]

you could build a small form around this newly built top and pour a bar top epoxy about an inch or so deep into your form that would be around for eons

something such as clear coat bar top epoxy

it would be cheaper though i believe to install a sheet of Medium Density Fiberboard upon it and glue that baby down really well

Also make some phone calls to your local countertop installers, you might be surprised at what you can get your hands on in regards to faulty corian scrap that could be used...i have came across some fairly large pieces from time to time that were simply going to be thrown in the local county landfill....sad

Chris

 

[Howard Acheson]

Remember, if you apply a plywood, MDF, masonite or plastic laminate on top of a solid wood substrate you will end up with warping or other damage. The solid wood will want to expand and contract while the other materials will be stable.