Grizzly spiral cutter versus bryd Shelix cutter

[jonnyfontaine]

I own a grizzly 8" jointer and I can't square the edge of a board, I think some of the knives are higher on one side quite a bit. And since the gibs seem welded on I'd rather not go through the nightmare of adjusting the knives. I ordered a bryd Shelix cutter head a while back but they say, contrary to what they told me when I placed the order and Monday, that they will arrive at soonest late August early September, being impatient I was thinking about getting the Grizzly cutter. Unfortunately it's like a $100 more. I ordered the Byrd because the cutters are at an angle so skew cut, the Grizzly spiral the cutter are all straight just spiraled. What do you guys suggest? Thanks

 

[striker]

I have a byrd in a 12" jointer and Grizzly in 15" planer. they both leave a little scallop but compared to straight knife you'll wonder why it took so long to make the change. Between not messing with blades and no tear out, the spiral is a winner. just leave a little to scrape or hand plane out the scallop if thats objectionable. no preference between byrd or griz

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I have the byrd head on my jointer and the girzzly spiral head on my planer as well. I don't see any noticeable difference between them. The byrd should be better in theory, so I definitely wouldn't pay $100 more for the Grizzly head.

 

[ehpoole]

Jonny, adjusting the knives is a normal part of jointer setup when using straight knife cutterheads, so I can promise you they are not welded in place, though I still suspect that you may be turning the lockbar bolts the wrong direction coupled with the possibility of some initial threadlock to prevent loosening in shipment (though I have never encountered threadlock on such bolts). If they really can not be removed for whatever reason, or have become so overtightened that they can no longer rotate, they are just hex head bolts and can be cut loose and then replaced with new bolts of the same type and length (or have the manufacturer send you new bolts under warranty, with or without replacement lockbars).

You are fortunate to be in a part of NC where we have many members, please consider reaching out to our members and asking someone more familiar with jointer setup and maintenance to drop by and help you get your jointer setup. Not only will that get you up and running much sooner but you will make a new friend to boot.

But that will be your fastest route to getting a jointer up and running.

 

[Rwe2156]

Not much advantage to a helical head in a jointer for edge jointing. Big advantage for face jointing.

If your buying a helical head ok, but if you're buying one because you think what you have isn't useable, hold on!

Because the blades (and the fence) are adjustable. Have you checked your fence for square?
.

 

[jonnyfontaine]

Yeah the majority of what I'd be doing is face jointing highly figured wood, and very dense and hard woods. Yeah I was exaggerating when I said the gibs were welded but it seriously took me a torch and vise grips to loosen then gibs on one knive and it seems like the gibs are made of a soft metal because they get rounded over if you try to use the proper size wrench. So aside from the benefits of less tear out, the idea of not having to adjust the knives is just a bonus.

 

[NTCook]

Yeah the majority of what I'd be doing is face jointing highly figured wood, and very dense and hard woods.

Like many others have posted I have a Byrd in the jointer and Grizzly in my planer. I would say for highly figured wood the Byrd wins out by being able to make a slightly better cut with less tearout. When I ordered my Byrd I was told the wait would be longer than I expected but it wound up arriving much sooner than I had been told. Maybe they exaggerate lead times to prevent missing dates? For me personally, knowing how both perform, I would be more than willing to wait that time for the Byrd.