Finish for Ash table

[weelis]

Have just finished an end table made out of ash. I am new to the finishing part of woodworking so I need help. What would you all out there recommend for a finish? Am open to any and all suggestions. thanks to all.

 

[Larry Rose]

The times I've used ash I found it did not take stain very well as it blotched quite a bit. A clear finish like poly will bring out the grain and darken it a little and it looks good.

 

[fergy]

I just did some veneering with some tamo ash, and it's got an incredibly open pore/grain structure. You might really want to consider a filler for it after the first color treatment, unless you're leaving it natural. I finished it with sealcoat and clear pre-cat lacquer and it looks great. If coloring it, I would consider spraying a NGR dye instead of a wiping finish.

 

[Gofor]

For a very durable finish, consider Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Finish. It is a phenolic varnish that levels well with brush application and forms a tough flexible finish. The downside is that it will skin over in the can quickly after initial use, so don't buy a larger container than you need for this project.

I used this on my walnut kitchen table and it has held up quite well now for a little over 3 years. IIRC I did a 50:50 mix of mineral spirits and Behlens wiped on for the first three coats, and then a full strength Behlens wet brush coat for the final.

JMTCW

Go

 

[bluedawg76]

ash is like oak so the same applies. if you want a light stain, like a honey color. i'd use thinned coat of blo 50/50 (blo/ms), flood it, let it soak in for about 20-30min keeping it wet, then meticulously wipe it dry and keep doing this for the next day or 2 cause it'll seep. let it dry for several days. then follow with any wiping varnish. The blo will really enhance the grain and will leave a nice warm honey color. i don't like to fill the grain but that's just my preference

if you want a darker stain, then you'll definitely need a wash coat first otherwise it'll be blotchy. alternatively gel stains are generally pretty easy to do as they don't tend to be blotchy. then follow with any topcoat varnish.

Sam

 

[Jeff]

Because the grain pattern/structure of ash is variable and open (like cherry and pine) you have a couple of options to minimize the blotchiness.

1. Pre-seal the grain with a 1 lb. cut of 100% dewaxed shellac in denatured alcohol (Zinsser Seal Coat is a 2 lb. cut in the can). Slosh on with a rag (don't brush) because you want a very light coating. Then topcoat with your intended finish.

2. Try a gel stain with or without the shellac sealer and see if it works for your intended appearance. Topcoat.

Experiment with representative size scraps and record each step and what you did for each of those.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Another option which makes for an interesting finish is to apply a dye followed by Briwax Liming Wax. The liming wax will fill the grain and leave a whitewash look. The next phase is to apply a poly top coat. I have not tried this approach but photos of items finished in this manner look very unique.