Everyone favorite wood glue

[taandctran]

I was woundering what everyone's favorite wood glue was. I use Titebond III for most of my projects and gorilla glue for cocobolo, african blackwood ect.. just want to know yalls' opinion

 

[4yanks]

I use either Titebond or Elmers yellow glue for most of my work. I don't see much difference. But, I love Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for complicated glue-ups due to the extended open time. I have also used it for split turnings due to its reversible qualities.

 

[Oakwood]

My favorite glue is Titebond Original. I would use Titebond II or Titebond III if I needed exterior performance. I would not use a urethane for any application. The Titebond Liquid Hide glue is great if your are working with a long assembly time or think you may want to disassemble the part at a later date.
I must be honest here. I have worked for Franklin International ( Makers of Titebond Brand Glues ) for 42 years. After coming out of the polymer research lab at Franklin I have devoted most of the fourty plus years to the woodworking industry. So, I have a lot of experience and also a fair amount of bias.

John

 

[McRabbet]

I normally use Titebond II for most routine gluing (being sure the working temperature is over 55!) and Gorilla Glue for extended open time situations. I've also used Gorilla Glue for bonding PVC pipe to plywood (blast gates), roughing up the PVC surface first with a coarse rasp to provide "teeth" for the glue. For other specialized gluing like threaded inserts or T-Track, I'll use epoxy. I use Titebond Dark glue for gluing darker woods and, when I can find it, I use hide glue for antique furniture repairs (Our local BORG and Lowes do not carry the Titebond version -- Boo-Hiss!). Overall, Titebond II is my favorite.

Rob

 

[erasmussen]

Titebound or titeboundII 90% of the time:roll:

 

[Travis Porter]

I use titebond original. I use Gorrilla glue some, and plan to try some of the powdered for laminations at some point.

 

[DaveO]

The Titebond trio is always on hand in my shop. Plus I use a good bit of CA glue for small items.
Dave

 

[cpowell]

Titebond normally, Titebond II for outside apps/cutting boards.

 

[jeff...]

Elmers Capterners (yellow) glue for me, although theres not much difference with titebond, except for the white trail titebond leaves after wiping squeeze out on red oak. Lately it's been Elmers pro bond, only because I made a late night glue run to super Walmart and they were out of Carpenters. I think Pro Bond is just as good as Capenters. My opinion only, take it for what it's worth, all of about ¢.02

 

[D L Ames]

Titebond mainly here but I am still using up some Elmer's carpenter glue that I had. I normally manage to pick up a bunch of free samples when ever I find it offered at woodworking shows. Lately most of the freebies have been from Titebond.

D L

 

[mshel]

* Mohawk Super Resin Glue for most anything
* Old Brown Glue ( hide glue made by Patrick Edwards in Ca.) for use on antiques
*Gorilla Glue for anything outside or near moisture
*Epoxy for hard to glue things
* CA for quick grip apps


Just my drip on things

Mike

 

[Ken Weaver]

Using Titebond right now for most projects, although I can't tell the difference between it and Elmer's Carpenter glue. Gorilla glue for exterior applications.

 

[Steve D]

Mostly Titebond I, II for some exterior, epoxy & CA for special situations. I have found that if the glue line is visible, like on a large panel, II, III tend to show glue creep. You can actually feel the glue line after a short period of time even though it was sanded smooth before finishing. It still happens with I and Elmers carpentry but to a leeser degree. I have switched to PRG for these applications or when I need a lot of open time for a complicated glue up.

 

[yellofins]

I use tite bond 2 and tite bond for trim for my indoor work and West system epoxies for anything for the boat or outside.
ron

 

[Ray Martin]

Nothing surprising here... I use Titebond II for most things and III if there might be a bit of moisture. I've tried Gorilla with some good luck but you do have to consider the foaming / staining / cleanup. I bought a bottle of Titebond's stainable but used it for a set of jigs for house construction so I have no idea if it has enough wood fibers to accept color. The stainable did seem to be a bit thicker and the open time seemed a bit shorter but I didn't have any real problems with it.

Ray

 

[DavidF]

* Mohawk Super Resin Glue for most anything
* Old Brown Glue ( hide glue made by Patrick Edwards in Ca.) for use on antiques
*Gorilla Glue for anything outside or near moisture
*Epoxy for hard to glue things
* CA for quick grip apps


Just my drip on things

Mike

Generally TB II, but what's the Mohawk Super Resin Steve?

 

[SkintKnuckle]

I was wondering about the Mohawk Super Resin Glue myself, I've never heard of it. Soooo, I did a Google search, and it shows a Mohawk Super Grip Glue. Their Techncial Bulletin lists it as no VOC, but when you read down on the next page it states that it releases flammable vapors! There was an msds available and is describes it a a polyvinyl acetate emulsion, which could be equivalent to a lot of things. I'll do a few inquiries with some contacts I have and will get back to the group on it.

 

[mshel]

Generally TB II, but what's the Mohawk Super Resin Steve?

David,

Here ya go http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=261

MIke

 

[Oakwood]

Steve D reports "glue line creep" on exposed glue lines. This situation is usually caused by one of two things. The first is machining the glued up joint to quickly after gluing. If the glue line is machined to soon the wood adjacent to the glue line is still saturated with water and the wood swollen. If you plane the surface at this point you smooth the swollen wood and then in a day or two the the wood shrinks after the water has disapated and you get a sunken joint which looks very much like an open joint or glue line creep.
The second cause is gluing boards of differing moisture content. For example if you glue a 12% moisture board to a 5% moisture board, over time both boards will reach equilibrium moisture lets say 8%. This means that the 12% board has shrunk and the 5% board has swollen and you get a condition called planking where the glue line looks open or appears to show creep. In Fact the two boards you have glued up have changed dimension.
Generally you should wait at least 24 hrs before surfacing a glued up panel. The wait may be longer if the amibient humidity is high. The only cure for planking is to be careful that the stock you glue has fairly uniform moisture content (Within 2%).
John

 

[NCPete]

Thanks John, that is good stuff to know about creep, and how to prevent it.