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Is that the 14" model that uses a 93 1/2" blade? Delta numbers can sometimes be a little difficult to pin down, so I'm not positive, but I think that's the same one I have.
Does it have a 1/2, 3/4, or 1 h.p. motor. Mine had the 1/2 h.p., and it was a little underpowered, so I switched to a 1 h.p. Better now. If you want resaw capacity, this probably isn't the best choice. I think the max resaw is 6", and you're kinda taxing the machine at that. Adding the riser block is an option, but that causes other problems: the saw is difficult to keep in alignment.
I upgraded to a Rikon 14" to use mainly for resawing, and kept the Delta 14" to use for curved work. It works fine for that.
Bill
Does it have a 1/2, 3/4, or 1 h.p. motor. Mine had the 1/2 h.p., and it was a little underpowered, so I switched to a 1 h.p. Better now. If you want resaw capacity, this probably isn't the best choice. I think the max resaw is 6", and you're kinda taxing the machine at that. Adding the riser block is an option, but that causes other problems: the saw is difficult to keep in alignment.
I upgraded to a Rikon 14" to use mainly for resawing, and kept the Delta 14" to use for curved work. It works fine for that.
Bill
Yes it does take 93.5" blades. It has a 1HP Marathon motor in it. I went ahead and got it.
I posted the same question over at lumberjocks and update it with some pictures - take a look if you want.
Thanks for you help.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/28029#reply-295017
I posted the same question over at lumberjocks and update it with some pictures - take a look if you want.
Thanks for you help.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/28029#reply-295017
For $325 I'd say you got a good deal, Steve. If you plan on doing any resawing, I'd get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware, are a comparable high quality blade from someone else.
Some of the post on LumberJocks encouraged you to get the riser block. Everything I've seen or read says they are trouble. When you add that extra link in the spine, it is very difficult to align the top and bottom halves, and keep them that way.
You might send a PM to Bob Vaughn and see what he says about the riser block. He has a lot of experience w/ equipment.
Bill
Some of the post on LumberJocks encouraged you to get the riser block. Everything I've seen or read says they are trouble. When you add that extra link in the spine, it is very difficult to align the top and bottom halves, and keep them that way.
You might send a PM to Bob Vaughn and see what he says about the riser block. He has a lot of experience w/ equipment.
Bill
Delta's riser blocks (available from Ittura Design) work well. I have two saws equipted with them. Just be sure and scrape all paint off mating surfaces. Before buying more blades, decide if you are going to add riser block, as you will then need 105" blades. For blades, check out woodcraftbands.com. My "go to blade" is a bi-metal 1/4", 6tpi, hook pattern. Use it for everything!
Original owner trashed the blade because he never set it up correctly. He had the guides in front of the gullets so it wore down the blade. And the thrust bearing was 1/4" behind the blade. Blade is so shot it won't even cut 1/2" mdf! My buddy has a jet that he added a riser block to so he's going to give me his old 93.5" blades since they don't fit anymore. No idea what he has but anything will be better.
I plan to take a closer look at the guides and keep them if they are cool blocks but if not I think I'll try some of the ceramic blocks. Then well see about any blade purchases.
Thanks for the help.
I plan to take a closer look at the guides and keep them if they are cool blocks but if not I think I'll try some of the ceramic blocks. Then well see about any blade purchases.
Thanks for the help.
I wouldn't get too excited about ceramic guides. The original metal ones work very well. You can make your own out of most any hardwood, or Corian. The thrust bearings most likely need to be swapped out for SEALED bearings. Look at online sources for these. Expect to pay about $2 each, plus shipping. For dust collection, look at Wood (#198) July 2010, page 8.
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