Correcting blotched cherry

[BburgBoy]

I should know better. I know that cherry will blotch and I have, in the past, used thin shellac coat as a sealer before finishing. But I got a bit too comfortable with Osmo wood wax oil (I love this stuff). Even though I tested a very large section of the underside of my project, obviously I didn't test the part where it has very noticeable blotches.

As I understand, this is a penetrating oil. Thus, my question is: can it be sanded off? I'd like to re-sand, seal with thin coat of de-waxed shellac, and cover it again with Osmo. A related note, since shellac is a kind of penetrating film finish, am I going in the wrong direction? Should I seal with a pre-stain wood conditioner before the wood wax?

But most importantly, will I be successful in removing the Osmo finish with sanding?

 

[mdbuntyn]

One man's blotch is another man's figure.

I've heard that the finer you sand, the more you can reduce blotch.

Alternatively, you can try a blotch control/wood conditioner product—Marc Spagnuolo came up with a DIY version:

 

[areevesnc]

Before going too far, I suggest trying another sample/scrap piece with shellac and Osmo. I did an experiment with dewaxed shellac and Rubio Monocoat (a similar finish to Osmo). It worked, kind of, but the resulting color was much lighter than Rubio alone. This makes perfect sense, but may not be the effect that you want.

When I’ve had to remove a penetrating oil finish, I’ve found a card scraper or a hand plane to be much more effective than sanding.

 

[BburgBoy]

One man's blotch is another man's figure.

I've heard that the finer you sand, the more you can reduce blotch.

Alternatively, you can try a blotch control/wood conditioner product—Marc Spagnuolo came up with a DIY version:

Thanks so much. I enjoyed the video. Not sure I’ll go to all that effort, but it was interesting nonetheless.

 

[BburgBoy]

Before going too far, I suggest trying another sample/scrap piece with shellac and Osmo. I did an experiment with dewaxed shellac and Rubio Monocoat (a similar finish to Osmo). It worked, kind of, but the resulting color was much lighter than Rubio alone. This makes perfect sense, but may not be the effect that you want.

When I’ve had to remove a penetrating oil finish, I’ve found a card scraper or a hand plane to be much more effective than sanding.

Yep, I agree. That is my concern. I have never done a pre-treatment that did not lighten the finish coat. Since I’m trying to match other Cherry wood in the room, I may just live with this. Still, I think I’m going to test this by taking scrap, applying Osmo, and sanding it off again. I’m just curious.

 

[jlwest]

I have used much cherry and my experience indicates much of the blotching disappears as the cherry ages.

 

[Ricksmi]

I have to agree with Jeff over time as cherry ages the blotch mellows out.

 

[JimD]

I don't know that figure ("blotch") in cherry will be less as it darkens due to sunlight. My most recent cherry project was a stock for one of my airguns. I used a piece left over from a bed I made for my oldest grandson and I picked it because it had a little figure in it. I've had it on the dining room table "getting a suntan" and I think the figure is now a little more noticable. The finish I used is Osmo polyoil. I used that same finish on the dining room table it is sitting on and the 10 chairs that surround it. I have used this finish on multiple projects based upon it's effect on appearance and the ease of application. But it also seems pretty durable.

I hope you will not consider this a rant but I think a lot of cherry furniture gets ruined in the finishing process to even out the color variation that cherry normally has and also to hide figure. The effect of the dye and/or stain is a lot like a semi-transparent paint. I am not a fan at all of this type of finish. Cherry is beautiful in my opinion and the color variation is part of the beauty. I do select boards with similar color to combine in a project but often I do not have enough matching pieces. I even permit sap wood to show a little. I am not suggesting the OP wants to do this but I think objecting to figure starts people thinking in this direction.

People pay a lot of money for highly figured gunstocks (usually of walnut). I think you should just appreciate it. It's a good thing. Figure is also more common in walnut and maple too. It is always a good thing from my point of view. I would admit that when I featured some figured maple on a drawer front for my daughters dresser she asked about it in a way that suggested she didn't love it. Her daughter now loves that dresser, however.

 

[Rwe2156]

Sure looks like curl to me.................this isn't blotch, it's curl

Don't mess with it!

 

[drw]

Larry, I have seen cherry blotch far worse that what is evident in your pics. The piece looks beautiful...if it were me I would consider leaving well enough alone and let the color even out over time.

 

[Graywolf]

Blotching is usually encountered when applying dye or stain. What I’m seeing in your pictures as stated by others is grain or curl.

 

[BburgBoy]

Larry, I have seen cherry blotch far worse that what is evident in your pics. The piece looks beautiful...if it were me I would consider leaving well enough alone and let the color even out over time.

I’ve pretty much come to the same conclusion. Thanks.

 

[BburgBoy]

I don't know that figure ("blotch") in cherry will be less as it darkens due to sunlight. My most recent cherry project was a stock for one of my airguns. I used a piece left over from a bed I made for my oldest grandson and I picked it because it had a little figure in it. I've had it on the dining room table "getting a suntan" and I think the figure is now a little more noticable. The finish I used is Osmo polyoil. I used that same finish on the dining room table it is sitting on and the 10 chairs that surround it. I have used this finish on multiple projects based upon it's effect on appearance and the ease of application. But it also seems pretty durable.

I hope you will not consider this a rant but I think a lot of cherry furniture gets ruined in the finishing process to even out the color variation that cherry normally has and also to hide figure. The effect of the dye and/or stain is a lot like a semi-transparent paint. I am not a fan at all of this type of finish. Cherry is beautiful in my opinion and the color variation is part of the beauty. I do select boards with similar color to combine in a project but often I do not have enough matching pieces. I even permit sap wood to show a little. I am not suggesting the OP wants to do this but I think objecting to figure starts people thinking in this direction.

People pay a lot of money for highly figured gunstocks (usually of walnut). I think you should just appreciate it. It's a good thing. Figure is also more common in walnut and maple too. It is always a good thing from my point of view. I would admit that when I featured some figured maple on a drawer front for my daughters dresser she asked about it in a way that suggested she didn't love it. Her daughter now loves that dresser, however.

Thanks for your input, Jim. Most others on the thread seem to agree. At this point, I’m leaving well enough alone. I’ll lay on a coat of wax with 0000 steel wool and turn it over to my wife. As the family seamstress, she’ll make the padded cushion.