basics of finishing

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daver828

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David
I am afraid I do not understand the basics of finishing wood. Can someone, or everyone help, please?

I understand that finsihes will be difference if staining, or coloring in some way. What I'd like to understand is the basic theory, seal, color, finish? What is the reason for sealer and why in whatever order? Are the processes similar for fine furniture as flooring or rustic furniture? Can someone walk me through the basics? Thanks so much.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
I think even the basics would cover many, many pages here. This podcast might help you get started with oil-based finishes. That still leaves stains, dyes, shellac, lacquer, water-based finishes and a host of other options, but it's a start.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
I second recommending you get one or both of the two books suggested. They will answer you basic questions as well as any you ask in the future.

On one point, the first coat of ANY finish acts as a "sealer" in that it fills and smooths the surface of the wood. There is almost never a need for a separate sealer.
 

Bryan S

Bryan
Corporate Member
David I am by no means a finishing guru but do have Bob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing, it is helpful. Here are 2 links to some podcast that will offer some helpful information.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/11/12/podcast-28-oils-and-varnishes/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2009/11/11/podcast-43-12-must-have-finishing-supplies/


There is some good information I believe in the links library on different oils posted by Howard. I do not have the time to find it but it is there somewhere.
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
David -- Your best bet is to get a few books from your public library and read up on the subject. In particular, I would recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner or Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing by Jeff Jewitt. Use InterLibrary Loan if they do not have it on their shelves. You can also get great advice on Jeff Jewitt's website at Homestead Finishing Products.

HTH.

I'll second Rob's book recommendations. Jeff Jewitt has been a guest speaker at meetings of the Triangle Woodworkers Association. He's a nice guy and VERY knowledgeable on finishes. You might contact the TWA to see if they have him on one of the meeting agendas for the upcoming year.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Ditto on the two books mentioned. I have almost 40 years experience applying coatings to metal surfaces, (some which are subjected to Mach 3 abuse as well as space-shuttle exhaust deterioration) read papers on oligomers and polygomers, know cross-linking and leafing of pigments, understand resins, binders, solvents, etc, but the world of finishing wood furniture left me cold. I quickly found out I did not know squat about it.

I have as yet only glanced through Jeff Jewitt's book (it is on my wish-purchase list), but have the one by Bob Flexner. With it, you can go direct to the type coating you are using and get the "how-to" for applying it, but later you would be well advised to go through the chapters on the "whys".

It took me many years to really comprehend the characteristics and limitations of the different types of coatings, and I am still learning, but I feel either book will give you enough info to produce a good looking finish on your work.

That said, you will not do it well the first time unless you are lucky. If lucky, it won't happen the second time in a row. As with any skill, practice helps, so save those scrap cut-offs from your project to experiment on.

(Just another reason why most here have a problem with getting rid of the scrap wood until it pushes them out of their shop :rolf::rolf:)

Go

PS: Finishes are really one area where it is very difficult to cut costs of you want a good end product. Good prep, good brush (or application equipment), good quality coating, and a lot of patience sure helps.

PPS: You also may want to do a search and read all the posts by Howard Acheson. If he wrote a book, that is one I would definitely buy.
 

mlzettl

Matt
Corporate Member
David,

I would certainly agree with all of the advice that has been offered. In over 30 years of woodworking I have talked with countless other woodworkers, and I don't think that there are any two of them who use the same finishing process. It varies from piece to piece, person to person. In time, with experience, you will find a method that works for you and your work.

There is one part of good finishing that all of the best woodworkers have in common, though, and that is surface preparation. This is the one step that ruins more finishes than any other in my opinion. I don't know know of any woodworker that likes to sand. Smoothness of the surface, whether sanded or scraped, is paramount to a good finish. Get it as smooth as you think you can, then sand or scrape some more. The finish magnifies any imperfections. After your sealer coat, or first coat of oil, look over the whole piece carefully again. You will find areas that need more attention before proceeding.

Time spent in surface prep is well rewarded. I have always said that good work is easily ruined by a bad finish, and conversely a good finish can hide (to a certain extent) some shortfalls of craftsmanship. Did I mention that surface preparation is the most important part of finishing?

I'll get down off my pulpit now.:wink_smil

Good luck,

Matt
 

Tom Rioux

New User
Tom
Hi David,

Great questions. I couldn't pretend to have all of those answers.

I'd like to offer a basic idea or theory on sanding sealers and pre stain conditioners that has worked in stuff I've done. And then I'm going to let my 3 year old son pick a bunch of Icons for this post since he's sitting on my lap so patiently.

The first substance to come in contact with the wood fibers often has the greatest chance at illuminating the grain.

I view wood as a living, breathing being. Each piece with it's own personality. Milling, sanding and finishing all combine to make it come alive and show off it's true glory. No man could make such natural beauty but it's nice to be a part of it coming alive and a part of someones home. By saturating the wood fibers with high surface density resins in the first pass, the grain pops alive. Even if trying to reduce stain blotchiness in softer woods like pine, I like to get as much resin into that wood as possible, in the FIRST coat. You see the difference immediately but after 10-20 years it gets real apparent because the wood doesn't dry out and loose it's luster like it has with low solids, high solvent sanding sealers I've used.

Ok... now it's Emersons turn...

:embarrassed::kamahlitu:realmad::eusa_pray:qleft7::qright5::3dblob3::XXfridge::saw::kermit::banana::notworthy::thumbs_do

Best wishes,

Tom
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I'll third Bob Flexner's book, but if you prefer something more accessible, Mark Spagnuolo has a very good knowledge and is a good communicator in video form: Wood Whisperer Finishing Videos.

David,

I just watched Marc Spagnuolo's video #107 (Basics of Oil Finishing) and thought it was a very informative overview of the topic. We all continue to learn, but we each have our little whims and preferences for how a finish should look so this is a good start.

One suggestion that I can offer that's helped me a lot: Begin thinking about finishes as you are milling your wood for the project. Save the off-cuts and use them as test pieces for your finish (including final sanding, etc). OBTW, despite a lot of the hype about sanding I don't go above 120-150 grit on the raw wood whether it's hard or soft wood. After 2 primary coats of finish I'll LIGHTLY sand with 220 and wipe off the dust with a mineral spirit dampened cloth or paper towel. After that 0000 steel wool, Scotch-Brite gray on their nifty hand held sanding pad (about like 0000 steel wool, but less abrasive) or white (very fine and much less abrasive than wool) works just fine for me. They can be used in between coats if you wish, but often not necessary. A final waxing with Liberon "Black Bison" paste wax is also purely optional. Your choice and tastes dictate that.
 

SGalley

New User
Scott W. Galley
By saturating the wood fibers with high surface density resins in the first pass, the grain pops alive. Even if trying to reduce stain blotchiness in softer woods like pine, I like to get as much resin into that wood as possible, in the FIRST coat.

Probably a stupid question. I've never tried this. What kind of resin and what do you apply after?
 

Trog777

New User
Trog
Personally, I think it has something to do with a mix of planet alignment, the Illuminati, and voodoo. Sooooo many options and techniques... Hurts my widdle bwain. I've found that when I find a regimen I like for a certain type of wood, I'll stick with it as opposed to experimenting as some do. I realize that is limiting, but at this point, it's what I'm comfortable doing. Anything beyond that, I usually sic the wife on. That way I have someone to blame.:gar-La;
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
1) Get a rag and some gloss oil base poly.
2) pour poly on rag
3) rub poly into wood
4) wait a few mins wipe excess poly off wood.
5) wait 30 mins
repeat 1 ~ 4
6) wait one day

wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
sand with 320
wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
sand with 400
wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
Finish good enough? if no
sand with 600
wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
Finish good enough now? if no
sand with 800
wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
Finish good enough now? if no
sand with 1200
wipe with tack cloth
Load spray gun with poly acrylic and spray
wait 2 hours
Finish good enough now? if no dynamite works wonders
 
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