Are all router bits created equal?

[Will Goodwin]

Ok for my first official question: (drum roll please...)

I have a Ryobi router/table combo http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=16937

I don't however have any bits. This makes routing a bit challenging.
Before I go out and buy the Ryobi starter set at my local store, I wanted to check with y'all. I shouldn't need them right away as my first project doesn't involve any routing, but I thought I'd ask and then I'd have time to shop around.

Should I buy a more expensive set at Rockler/Klingspor/HF/Lee Valley/Etc.? Or would the Ryobi bits be fine for now?

Will

 

[Tar Heel]

The problem with buying a set of router bits is that it is (depending on the size of the set) unlikely that you will ever use all of them. Woodcraft periodically puts some of their bits on sale for $5 each. They are very decent bits for the money. I suggest that you not buy a large set. I also suggest that you buy them as you need them. There are a few you will need many times and you will soon find out which ones they are,

 

[b4man]

Glad to have you join us Will and that's a good question. I agree with Stuart completely. Buy only bit's you use either on a project or for standard uses like rabbeting or dado's. Straight bits in 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 are what I use most and for those I try and get good quality like Freud. Also, there are bits made especially for cutting the widths of plywood.
Good luck and share pix with us.

Barbara

 

[Bas]

There's three sides to this.

(1) Don't buy an expensive bit if you're only going to use it once or twice
(2) Invest heavily in bits you use a lot
(3) You can't learn without trying

I suggest you buy an affordable set. That way, you have most of the bits you'll need right away, and you can try things out. Ever used a keyhole bit? Or a box core bit? Nothing more fun than 'xperimenting. But don't go overboard. Something with 15 or 20 bits is fine, I wouldn't go for the 400 bit set just yet.

Before too long, you'll wear some bits out. Like your flush trim bit, and your straight bits (1/2", 3/4" etc.). Replace those with high-quality bits from Freud, Amana, Whiteside etc. I've never used Ryobi bits, but all the bits I've seen at Home Depot & Lowe's are overpriced for the quality. I bought a nice set from MLCS Woodworking for very little money.

What size bits does your router take? There is nothing wrong with getting a cheap 1/4" shank set, but buy your good bits with 1/2" shank.

When I first started, I had no clue, and bought a 20 piece Skil 1/4" set. This would send any self-respecting tool snob into anaphylactic shock. But you know, for light hobby use, those bits cut just fine! Making deep plunge cuts for my workbench holes...that's when I brought in something better.

 

[JackLeg]

I agree with Bas. Start with the inexpensive bits, then move on to the better stuff for the most used stuff.

I personally like Whiteside, they ship promptly and their bit selection is vast. Quality is good. FWIW.

Good luck getting started. Can't live without the darn things!

 

[clowman]

I would definitely go for the $5 woodcraft bits when they go on sale. You can beat them for 5 bucks. They have some of more commonly used ones in that set, and you can buy em 1 at a time if you want.

As for all bits created equal. Of course not. High Speed Steel ones are not as good as carbide ones. It really does depend on how much you will use it that could be a big factor on how much you spend on them. If you are learning, I would not recommend buying an expensive set till you know which you will use more often.

 

[scsmith42]

There are also different grades of carbide. On my sawmill, the times between sharpening the blade bits is much longer if I use "steel grade" carbide as opposed to "wood grade" carbide when replacing inserts.

The tradeoff is that it takes a few more passes to sharpen the harder "steel grade" carbide, but it's worth it.

I suspect that the higher quality Freud, etc router bits use a better grade of carbide, but this is a presumption...

Scott

 

[LeftyTom]

Yeah, what they said.

 

[Travis Porter]

FWIW, I definitely would not buy an expensive set of bits to start out. Like Bas said, a decent starter set gets you going and gives you an idea of which ones you use and which ones you don't. One other bit that I would recommend buying a good one from the start is a 1/4" roundover. It is the bit I use more than any other.

 

[erasmussen]

I agree I am always using a round over, and get what you need as you go:icon_thum
I have had good luck with bits from Price Cutter and they always have some on sale.

 

[lottathought]

Actually, you ask a very good question.
In a word...NO..all bits are not created equal.
And it is not always the most expensive bits that are best.
I saw a comparison where Whiteside Machine had one of the best bits in the industry.

I also want to echo...the $5 bits that Woodcraft have are very nice. I actually asked the guys there when the next sale will be when I was there today.

Also....just make sure you get the correct shank. I think that router only takes a 1/4".......unless I am mistaken.

 

[junquecol]

I have used a lot of bits from MLCS. Most bang for my buck. They are my first choice. Also Woodline has good bits. The Woodcraft bits are very good when on sale for $5.00. Go to the Charlotte show in March, and you can do a side by side comparison of more than one brand. I own a MLCS 1/2" solid carbide spiral bit and the same from Jesada (no longer in business) The Jesada cost fifty bucks, but it is ten times the bit that the MLCS is. Generally you get what you pay for. It's a question of what you want. I wouldn't stock up on anything other than a very basic set.

 

[Will Goodwin]

Also....just make sure you get the correct shank. I think that router only takes a 1/4".......unless I am mistaken.

You are correct. 1/4" only.

 

[Will Goodwin]

I have used a lot of bits from MLCS. Most bang for my buck. They are my first choice. Also Woodline has good bits. The Woodcraft bits are very good when on sale for $5.00. Go to the Charlotte show in March, and you can do a side by side comparison of more than one brand. I own a MLCS 1/2" solid carbide spiral bit and the same from Jesada (no longer in business) The Jesada cost fifty bucks, but it is ten times the bit that the MLCS is. Generally you get what you pay for. It's a question of what you want. I wouldn't stock up on anything other than a very basic set.

I'm leaning towards MLCS...I went online after Bas suggested them and the 15 bit starter set is the same price as the 8 bit Ryobi set at HD. Then once I get the hang of things and start wearing them out, I'll check out the Woodcraft and Whiteside bits. Thanks for all the feedback!

Can I add a new question? How do I know when the bit is worn out?

Also just a side note: I think lottathought is right down the road from me. I'm renting a house for the time being off of Lake Wheeler Road. (Sadly that means no serious shop work yet. I'll probably build a bench -BTW nice job on yours Bas, but no permanent dust collection systems.) When we first moved here, we were in an apartment on Creedmore Road in N. Raleigh. My wife got tired of our 4 bedroom house being crammed in the 2 bedroom apartment. We moved to the rental house in October, so still settling in to this part of Raleigh.

Will

 

[Splinter]

I bought this set from MLCS about 6 years ago in 1/2" shank and I am still using it. The set was cheaper 5 years ago. All but two have seen some use and only two have been sharpened. Several have seen heavy use and are still in great shape. I this is a good starter set. But for heavy use like cabinet door sets, etc. Freud is my choice. The $5 bits at Woodcraft are also a great buy and I have a few of them. You can use a small hand held flat diamond stone and touch up the bits to help keep them sharp.

 

[Bas]

ICan I add a new question?

Sorry, no. Only one question per thread

How do I know when the bit is worn out?

That's easy.

1. Buy a new bit
2. Run it through the washer and dryer
3. Put it in a box of nails. Shake for 20 minutes
4. Take a hammer and bang on the shank for five minutes

Now inspect the bit. That's what it looks like when it's worn out

Seriously though, it's not an exact science. Over time, you'll see small knicks appear on the carbide. You can get rid of the high spots with a hone, but the cut will become less and less smooth. Finally, you'll start tearing the wood. That's when it's time to get them sharpened, or if it's a cheap bit toss it out.

If you're like me, you probably have difficulty throwing anything out, including bent nails and dried up glue. You can always make a bit box for "rough work". I've routed channels in a fence outside, always the chance you hit a nail.

Keeping your bits clean will help extend their life. There are only about a million posts on what kind of cleaner to use, so that should be good reading for the rest of the week.

Good luck with settling in and finding shop space. Building a workbench is definitely a good project to tackle early. It's amazing how much my woodworking skills have improved in just a few weeks (it helps of course if you were marginally hopeless to begin with )

 

[DavidF]

I would agree with the MLCS route, I buy almost exclusively from them; the free shipping helps! and find the bits just fine. As has been posted many times, regarding almost all the tools we use, unless you are a professional shop where time is money, and big heavy cuts are part of the game, you really won't see much benefit from spending a huge amount of money on a bit, taking light cuts will stop most problems. Don't even bother with plain HSS bits, go carbide on everything. You might read that HSS takes a sharper edge than carbide, but in the world of router cutters that difference lasts about 10ms. Get a small diamond stone and you can touch the edge up for years. I didn't buy a set when I started out 20+ years ago and haven't regretted it. After all this time and many projects I still have only about 40 bits, each one bought as required. Spiral bits are my current new find and if possible I would buy all my new straight bits in spiral. just my 2d worth.

 

[cpowell]

Will - take very light passes with those 1/4 bits. It's much safer and easier on the router. Enjoy!!


Chuck