Well.. for his Father In Law actually. I asked what he was like as I had never met him. I was told he was a tough, strait laced, no frills man. He did not like "fancy". O.K....let me see what I can do with that.....This has NO finish on it in these pictures. The tenon is left long so that the lid can sit non a flat surface and be picked up properly - not by the knob only. It has been sanded and burnished. Next the Odie's Oil will go on it.
An urn for my son.
- Thread starter teesquare
- Start date
Wow, really no finish? There is an amazing amount of gloss in the last picture for a piece with no finish. What are the wood species? What was your sanding/burnishing process?
I very much like the straight-forward simplicity and elegance of this piece - a lot! Nicely done.
Thank you Henry. The body is Osage Orange. The top is Peruvian Walnut. This particular piece of wood was really hard, and sanded to 5000 - which at some point goes from what we think of as sanding - to "polishing" in that the particles removed and the scratch marks are so small that SOME woods - will take on a sheen that really looks like there is a finish. I do not get this from Ash, Cherry, or most Maple. Hard figured Maple can tho...
Thank you. And I agree.
Gorgeous!
Please post more picts after finishing it. Curious what Odies Oil will bring out.
Please post more picts after finishing it. Curious what Odies Oil will bring out.
Thank you - sorry for the slow response... Been turning a lot to fill commissioned work orders.
Odies's did not change the look of it other than to make it a little shiny -er. It shipped off before I thought about more pictures, sorry.
Ah - those are from Niles Bottle Stoppers.They are nicely machined brass inserts that you can epoxy in place to create a threaded connection.
There area some rules - that vary from state to state sometimes, but most insist on a threaded connection or an otherwise provable secure closure for cremation urns.
Truthfully - I do not like the brass inserts. The male portion has a "boss" or thickened portion that protrudes up above the finished surface of the urn. THAT makes you have to adjust the angle of the finial base - and often - that adjusted angle interferes with the aesthetics of the overall lines of the urn with the finial.
Note the dramatic change in direction caused by the steep angle on the base of the traditional type of finial. The next 2 pictures explain why this occurred. The brass insert projecting up above the shoulder of the urn, mandates that you will need to leave enough wood in the finial to cover that. The third picture shows just how deep into the finial you have to cut to accommodate that brass projection. There is not 1/8'' of wood thickness on the finial base - above the brass. So, the only real solution is to trash this finial, and create a more "domed" type as use on the urn for my son'e father in law.
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The urns that I have made are loaded from the bottom. This opening is sealed with a wooden disc, gasket and screws. The urn top is non-removable. I never felt the need (nor wanted the hassle) to use threaded inserts. In most cases urns are filled once, never to be opened again. The bottom disc can be easily removed if required.
Interesting concept Charlie!
No, but I will take photos next time a make an urn. I hope to never make anymore because when I make them for friends I tell them that they can't use them. But 5 friends have in the past 2 years.
O.K.
I probably have not thought this through, but what about turning it around?
The external threaded portion on the "lid" and the internal threaded portion on the vessel?
Th boss on the male end is larger in diameter- and heavier than I want to install in the opening of a vessel.Might be more difficult to glue it in place too. I had a few of them - and now that they are gone, I will now just thread wood to make the connection. I just did not like most of the aspects of any "pre-made" piece of something I normally make as "all hand-crafted". A wooden vessel - with he threads cut into the wood just makes for a more premium feel to me.
I think it does Phil. Easy to apply, and - I lake adding a little dry grind pigment powder to it when I want to "amp-up" the grain. Like in the below ash bowl.
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