ZCI Material

[cpw]

In my ongoing battle to get my shop up and running I am now looking at doing ZCIs for the TS and my SCMS. I'll probably do ply for the TS in the short term, but I'd like to make one that will accept replaceable inserts like this one.

Any recommendations for material? For long term stability I was thinking polycarbonate, phenolic, or UHMW, which seems to be a little cheaper. Any advantage of one over the other? Any better ideas?

Also, any problems with using hardboard as the replaceable insert material? Years ago a fellow told me that the stuff can be pretty hard on blades and sometimes will even have metal scraps in it.

Thanks,
Charles

 

[Mark Gottesman]

can't see image if not a member.

Norm Abrams use to show on with a long dovetail so you could slide in a new plate.

Should be easy enough to fab one up.

I just refill the slots with bondo when they get out of sorts. Ain't purty, but it works. I made 6 or 8 inserts one day so I could use them in rotation.
I've used Ply and UMHW when I could find it at a good price. Cheapo plastic cutting boards from the dollar store are serviceable.
They all work fine for me. However, I am a low volume wood dorker at best. YMMV

I use hard board for bench tops. It lasts a long while unless you hammer op it. Don't know about cutting it but it is dusty.

 

[Glennbear]

Since it was the right thickness and I have a granite topped TS I used a piece of synthetic stone backsplash to make a ZCI. Here is my thread with pictures:


http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33157

 

[CDPeters]

I use phenolic faced 1/2" plywood

 

[HMH]

Nothing too fancy, but I've had good luck w/ plain 'ole 1/2" Ply.

I rough out the shape w/ my bandsaw/ jigsaw, then use double sided tape to attach 2 or 3 blanks to the original insert, w/ a 2" flush trim bit, (and a starter pin on my router table), I can turn out batches of 3 ZCI's in very short time, (15-20 min.). I use small screws in the corners to level to the surface of the TS, and bore a finger hole for easy removal.

I keep several on-hand for regular, thin kerf, and my most used dado thicknesses. Cheap and easy.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

Currently I am using 1/2 melamine covered particle board in white since it was the right thickness for my delta contractor saw and since it is cheap... I only made up one so far but I it it working well.. I bored and pressed regular nuts in hole on the bottom that they adjusts ride on... plus this way all my hardware is reusable

 

[MarkE]

I used ~1/2" plywood for my Grizzly 1023. You can make a whole batch in a couple of hours, so I never saw a need to make one with replaceable inserts. I had one for each kerf blade and one each for the common dado sizes. Small screws in the bottom for leveling and a brad in the back so it wouldn't lift out. I drilled a couple of 1" finger holes to help pull them out and for a little DC help.

 

[terry1166]

I use 1/2" MDF with an iron on melamine surface that I apply. I drill holes for the leveling screws and install 4 allen head set screws to level. I trace the original steel insert several times on the MDF, cut rough with the bandsaw, then use double sided tape to affix the original insert to the rough cut MDF. I then go to the router table and use a top bearing pattern bit to trim the MDF to the exact shape. I do several of these at a time when I have nothing else to do. It takes less than an hour to make 5 or 6 blank inserts. I then iron on melamine for durablity, drill a pair of finger holes with a forstner bit and the blanks are ready to be cut on the table saw with whatever blade width, angle, etc. I need at the time. To me, this is as easy as making replaceable inserts for the steel insert that comes with the saw.

Terry

 

[junquecol]

I'm with Terry on this one. I use 1/2" MDF. A 4 X 8 sheet will make 84 ZCI's, so be on the look out at HD for a damaged sheet, or partial sheet. I made my first and got it as perfect as possible, and then labeled it MASTER. Using the MASTER, I band saw and route out as many as I want. For leveling, I use 10-24 set screws that I buy by the hundred from either ENCO, or Reid Industries. Wilders in Raleigh is about the same price on set screws. Fasten All should have them also. Lowes sells a tap and drill bit combo for the 10=24 threads. Getting the initial cut in a ZCI is a problem on most saws, so I made a jig to do that (trade secret.) My jig even allows for cutting a splitter kerf, and best of all (for you guys with a new saws) the riving knife slot. Rockler sells a two pack of phenolic. Peachtree also sells such. There is a thread over at Wood Central, in the Shop Shots on making the aluminum ones. WoodSmith made one from HDPE several years ago.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I'm also happy with 1/2" MDF. I made these in just a couple of hours. Rattle can paint dries fast and a dozen set screws levelers are self threading in MDF. Pix show some in various stages.

View image in gallery​

Here's some ideas with your SCMS.

 

[Mike Camp]

I'm also happy with 1/2" MDF. I made these in just a couple of hours. Rattle can paint dries fast and a dozen set screws levelers are self threading in MDF. Pix show some in various stages.

I really like the rattle can paint idea on MDF. Do you wax them at all once they are cured?

 

[CDPeters]

I really like the rattle can paint idea on MDF. Do you wax them at all once they are cured?

I'm curious about this too. My big gripe with the factory inserts is that the red paint rubs off on my workpieces and then I have to sand it off. It's not a big deal, just one of those little shop things that annoys the @#** out of me for no apparent or logical reason :dontknow:.

C.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Yep, I spray all sides and wax 'em all next day or so. But, first I make a blade relief cut using a combination of fence, short 2X4 and dbl side tape.