z-poxy first, or shellac

[Toddler]

So I have my son's small guitar sanded to about 100. Parts of it to 180. Once I get it all up to 180 or 220, I'm going to either pore fill with z-poxy finishing resin or go strait to the tinted shellac. I have red transtint for the shellac.

The back is basswood, very soft, and I'd like to put on something now before I fret it, to give it some protection from dents and such. I'll sand and put on more shellac then spray on some lacquer as the final coat, after it's fretted.

So my question is should I pore fill with z-poxy then shellac. Use a tinted wash coat of shellac, then z-poxy, and after fretting put on shellac then lacquer? Or . . . .?

Oh, the top is maple, neck is maple/bubinga/padauk. My biggest concern is being able to get it nice and red, back darker than front, and to protect it from dents a bit.

Thanks,
Todd

 

[mshel]

Todd,

I am not a luthier but my vote would be to go ahead and do all the pore filling and sealing and leave the final finish for the last after putting on the frets. Look forward to seeing the finished product. Wish I had stuck with the guitar years ago. Always wanted to play but didn't have the dicipline to keep at it.

Mike

 

[NCPete]

yeah, I hear one can woo the ladies with the guitar.... course Fred and DaveO have clearly NOT admitted using other methods......

 

[Toddler]

My son is 5 1/2, and does have a crush on our 14 y/o baby sitter. :eusa_thin I wonder if I can use that to get him to practice . . .

Would it be worth putting down a colored coat of shellac before the z-poxy? Say a wash coat, then tint the wash coat shellac with some red transtint . . . apply a second very thin coat of this colored shellac, then z-poxy it. Shellac only takes a few minutes to dry, and I think it will bring out the grain pattern more than z-poxy.

Todd

 

[DavidF]

My son is 5 1/2, and does have a crush on our 14 y/o baby sitter. :eusa_thin I wonder if I can use that to get him to practice . . .

Would it be worth putting down a colored coat of shellac before the z-poxy? Say a wash coat, then tint the wash coat shellac with some red transtint . . . apply a second very thin coat of this colored shellac, then z-poxy it. Shellac only takes a few minutes to dry, and I think it will bring out the grain pattern more than z-poxy.

Todd

Hi Todd,

This would seem like a good time to do a test board or two before committing "the real thing" I know it's a pain to prep and sand up a spare piece, but it's better than not liking the final finish on the guitar after it's done.

 

[Toddler]

That's a good idea Dave, and in reality, sanding basswood is 5 minutes work since I won't actually shape it.
And I have some sanded maple too.

Thanks,
Todd

 

[Joe Lyddon]

That's a good idea Dave, and in reality, sanding basswood is 5 minutes work since I won't actually shape it.
And I have some sanded maple too.

Thanks,
Todd

I was getting ready to suggest the same thing... :slap:

What is this 'z-epoxy' you're talking about?

 

[DaveO]

I was getting ready to suggest the same thing... :slap:

What is this 'z-epoxy' you're talking about?

I believe it is this product -

It's often used in a luthiers finishing schedule.
Dave

 

[Joe Lyddon]

I believe it is this product -

It's often used in a luthiers finishing schedule.
Dave

Dave, thank you... I googled it and found it...

Looks like good stuff...

 

[Toddler]

There's a lot of info on how to use z-poxy, and in several threads I saw that if you do more than a wash coat of the shellac, the z-poxy won't stick well, but some recommended you shellac over the z-poxy to make sure that any nitrocellulose you finish with will bond well.

I'm not sure I need to pore fill the basswood, but I suspect the Padauk might benefit from pore filling. Still thinking . . . I also bought a book on finishing.

Todd