Wood bodied plane repair question

[Kicbak]

I went to loosen the depth stop on the fillister plane and the screw just came out. A bunch of fine sawdust came out so I know the threads inside the plane are toast. What would be the best way to fix it? I was thinking about turning a dowel to the size of the hole and gluing and redrilling the hole. I could also use epoxy, I guess. Does anyone know a better way?

Wes

 

[froglips]

I'm going to assume since you mentioned historically period accurate epoxy, this is not a collector plane

You might want to try a trick I read about somewhere. Mix up very fine sawdust and something like a thin epoxy (that wood hardener comes to mind or a slower setting CA/Superglue).

Wax the screw to prevent the "glue" from adhering to the screw.

Clean out the hole as best you can. Maybe a pipe cleaner or some round brush.

Coat the screw and/or the hole with the mixture and reset the screw.

Depending on the glue, it'll take a little while or a long while.

This assumes there is some thread left in the body.

Its not a perfect fix, but it might be good enough to delay a more invasive procedure.

Jim

 

[Kicbak]

This is for me to use, so I just want to get the depth stop working. I can push the screw in and take it out without twisting it, So I think it needs something more then trying to fix the threads.

If I glue in a dowel would the grain direction being parallel to the length of the screw be a problem?

 

[ehpoole]

This is for me to use, so I just want to get the depth stop working. I can push the screw in and take it out without twisting it, So I think it needs something more then trying to fix the threads.

If I glue in a dowel would the grain direction being parallel to the length of the screw be a problem?

I'm not a plane expert by any measure, but these have been my solution for similar issues elsewhere:

1) Tap the holes to the next largest bolt size. If it was an 8-32 re-tap to 10-32 or 10-24 and upsize the bolt and you will have good threads.

2) Use a brass or steel threaded insert for the bolt to thread into and you will never have to worry about stripping wooden threads ever again. To prevent any mushrooming of the surrounding wood when driving in a threaded insert, pre-tap the insert hole with an appropriate tap (they match standard bolt taps) to precut the threads for the insert. To really hold the insert securely you can precoat the hole with some glue which will soon harden around the insert and prevent it from ever backing out accidentally.

3) If you must re-tap the existing hole to work with the original bolt, don't forget that you can use a plug and tenon cutter to create a replacement dowel with grain oriented anyway you wish. I know I have cutters that can create dowels up to 3" in length and it is my choice how the grain will run within the resulting dowel.

 

[froglips]

Yeah. Plus, you won't have good glue surface, very little side to side grain contact. Plus, you will end up with shrinkage in short order further weakening the connection.

If you want to go with a wood patch, I'd consider chopping a mortise parallel to the soul of the plane. Then glue in a plug with the grain running parallel to the plane. You'd get great glue surface on 3 sides. Lastly drill and tap.

Another thought is drilling the current hole a little bigger and tapping for the next size up in screw.

I'd also be tempted to look at a helicoil.

Lastly, best not to put 6000 foot/pounds of torque on the screw

Jim

 

[Kicbak]

What if I epoxy in some threaded rod, then I can use a wing-nut instead of having to use a screw driver to adjust the depth?

 

[froglips]

Don't see any reason not to, unless the wings could interfere with use or holding of the plane.

If you want to be a real "creative" sort, how bout one of those destaco/toggle clamps or maybe a hydraulic clamp!

We've gone long enough, I now much demand a picture!!

Jim