Which TS blade

Wilsoncb

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
Corporate Member
A sharp one. Technically a 40 or 60 tooth is probably best, however yesterday I needed to cut a piece but didn’t want to change my blade. It was a 24 tooth CMT rip blade full kerf and the cut was perfect with no splintering.

Just do a test cut on a non-critical piece and see how it works.
 
H

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
I am in the '1 blade does it all' catergory (mostly), especially if we are talking about a single cut. For me this is generally a rip 24T blade on a 10" TS (Klingspor brand); this is primarily because I mostly rip with my table saw. I can slow feed if I want 'smaller bites' on a cross cut. Yes I know that tooth configurations can be different for various blade types, but that's is what I do.

It is also relatively rare for me to cut plywood on my TS - most of that happens with a tracksaw if I need to cut plywood.
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I use an 80 tooth full kerf Amana crosscut if I want it really sweet, 60 tooth otherwise. I like CMT flat grind 24 for RIP. Ridge blades are said to be good but I only had a combo so sold it. good. I hate those "red" ones. Cut OK, but had teeth fly off and chip. Blue tape and ZCI are your friends. No combo and multi-purpose are more for carpentry. I have never bought a specials melamine blade but I probably should. 90% of the time my rip is on the saw as I mostly only use the TS for rips. I make it a point to never be in such a hurry on the TS that I won't change a blade. A quick cut I have my BS, miter saw and often, quickest just to grab one of my trusty Distons.
 
Ricksmi

Ricksmi

Rick
Corporate Member
I have for years changed out blades on the TS several times a day from rip blades to cross cut blades. I switched to the Ultra Shear thin kerf (.094) 48 tooth and full kerf 2 months ago and been very happy, plywood as well as hard wood are cut clean. Before that I been using the Klingspor blades. For breaking down plywood I prefer my track saw just easier IMO.
 
J

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I agree with those that commented on using a track saw for sheet goods - particularly large pieces. I have used most brands of table saw blades but the one I keep coming back to is Freud. I think CMT blades are just as good. I have not purchased a Ridge blade but I did have them sharpen a Freud and it came back better than new. So I'm sure their blades are a little better than my Freud blades. But not enough to be worth roughly twice the price to me. Freud diablo blades are their consumable low end blades but even those give clean cuts in the church's track saw and my circular saws. I don't think I've used one on a table saw. On my table saw I use the ones that cost around $50. They can be resharpened but it costs about what a new blade costs so I normally do not bother. Especially with a SawStop which has a limited range of diameters it's safety system will work with. I usually have a 50 tooth made with 40 ATB teeth and 10 rip teeth for a total of 50 teeth on the saw. It is not the best at ripping or crosscutting but it does both fine for most of what I do. I also have a higher tooth count all ATB blade for best quality cross cuts and a 24 tooth ripping blade.
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Forgot to mention, IF you have the horse power for the stock you are cutting, a full kerf blade will give a smoother cut. True on TS and on a miter, less of the dreaded curve on a compound miter. Sheet goods and 3/4 stock a contractor saw is no problem. Try to rip 8/4 maple full kerf with a full kerf combo blade is a burnout city. 3 HP cabinet can.

Yea, I run Diablo as disposable blades in my Skillsaw. I think I have an Irwin Hardi-blade too. Tried a cheap one and it lasted only a few cuts.
 
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