What is a “planer blade”

[NCJim]

I have some ¾” thick and some 2”x2” cherry to cut and want a smooth cut using my table saw. Someone told me to get a “good planer blade” for my table saw. I went to Lowes and Home depot and they both try to sell be blades for a planer. Google search bring the same results. So what is a planer blade?

I have 10" table saw.

 

[Raymond]

Jim, I have never heard of a circular saw blade called a "planer blade". they might mean a fine tooth blade 60 TPI or 80 TPI. However, others with more CSB knowledge may have more info. I will be following this closely.

 

[KenOfCary]

I've not heard that terminology for a table saw blade either. I've heard of blades described as producing 'glue-line' cuts or joints, which means no prep work is needed after cutting before going straight to glue-up.

This is likely what they are talking about. And a high tooth count like Raymond mentioned is usually the way that these blades are distinguished from other 'more normal' blades. They are also expensive, relative to a 'normal' blade.

 

[Rwe2156]

They are talking about glue line rip blades.
I've heard people call them that.

 

[Mike Davis]

In the old days before carbide blades got to be so common there was a planer cut tablesaw blade. The difference was the blade was ground at a slope thinner near the center of the blade so that only the outer edge of the teeth touched the wood/kerf. In effect it was very much like the glue line rip blades of today.

 

[NCJim]

I want to make glue line cuts. So should I get a not use a carbide tipped blade? If not what should I get?

 

[Mike Davis]

Yes, and build a sled to carry the boards straight through the saw instead of following the opposite edge on the fence.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Google "glue line rip blade" and you'll find everything you ever wanted to know.

Also, as Mike suggested, don't use the rip fence. Use a sled.

 

[chris_goris]

Im thinking if youve never heard of it, you probably dont need it!

 

[Joe Scharle]

In the darkness of time BC
(before carbide), they were the top of the line blades.
I still have 2 to remind me how much better we have it today!

 

[CrealBilly]

My FIL took a self sticking round sanding disk and stuck it his TS blade. Talking about smooth cutting :lol

 

[AllanD]

Agree with Mike and Joe. The terminology I remember was a "hollow ground planer blade" I still have mine stashed away somewhere. The teeth were wider than the body of the blade, like the concave hollow ground knife blade, so the body of the blade never touched the work piece. kind of the same theory as the teeth set on a handsaw. I wouldn't use anything but a carbide toothed blade these days.

 

[sawman101]

25 years ago, when my tools were of the lower cost variety, I used planer saw blades frequently, particularly for making raised panels for doors. I had an 8" direct drive Craftsman saw. The blades were hollow ground, the tooth area being thicker than the rest of the saw plate. These blades were HSS, and resembled the combination tooth blades. They made an excellent, smooth cut, needing no sanding. You can achieve the same results with the Freud Glue Line Rip. Be aware that the glue line rip blade will only rip, with the grain, it will not cut true, or smooth, across the grain. Look for 10" planer type blades only in HSS (high speed steel). Try Sears...

 

[golfdad]

May I recommend the Freud Fusion. Cuts beatifully in both directions

 

[Rwe2156]

Also, as Mike suggested, don't use the rip fence. Use a sled.

What am I missing here?
Are you talking about an unjointed board?

 

[Howard Acheson]

"Planer Blades" are old fashioned non-carbide circular saw blade that are designed with a thin, tapered plate. They produced a very smooth cut but they have been replaced by high tooth count carbide blades. Compared with today's top-of-the-line carbide tooth blades they require frequent sharpening. I doubt you could find one in a store these days.

Buy an 80 tooth carbide blade. Freud makes a good one.

 

[Mike Davis]

What am I missing here?
Are you talking about an unjointed board?

Yes, he does not have a jointer and wants to joint on the table saw.

 

[Willemjm]

We use to call this http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker-2-ripping-saw-blade-for-table-saws/ a planer blade.

What is important though is the quality of your saw, the fence, vibration etc.

I get a glue line cut with a normal combination blade that I use for everything. My saw is solid though, and I use a vibration damper (disc with an O'Ring in it) to hold the blade.

 

[Pop Golden]

I have an old "hollow ground planer blade" that I bought with my Sears RAS in the 60's. I had a terrible time with it. Years later I discovered that it IS NOT for RAS use. The real use of this blade is cutting with the teeth high out of the stock so that the cut stock feeds into the hollow area. I use it from time to time on thin (1/2 to 1/8 in.) Dulls very fast compared to a carbide blade.

Pop

 

[danmart77]

I have some ¾” thick and some 2”x2” cherry to cut and want a smooth cut using my table saw

If I understand you.. this is only 2" long? If so a couple swipes with your plane should give this a clean edge. Pushing 2" long wood past any tablesaw blade is dangerous. Be careful.

If this is my mistake in reading, you need a Rip blade for the TS to get the best edge.

dan