What can I cut with my scroll saw besides wood?

[Berta]

I bought a new book that explores the different things that a scroll saw can cut. I was amazed by how versatile it can be. I have tried some of them.
Plexiglass, Leather, paper, metal. The plexiglass Angel is painted on the backside. The leather is a piece of an old belt, the paper angel on the card is card stock the metal necklace is a 50 cent piece. The green paper is a tablet.

 

[ScottM]

Don't forget coins.

 

[bob vaughan]

This made me re-think plexiglass (acrylic) cutting. My scroll saw is generally set up for wood cutting. When I try to cut acrylic the plastic heats and seals right behind the blade. I do know that a lot of modern scroll saws run the blade very slowly. Maybe this is the ticket to successful acrylic cutting. Oddly, Lexan type plastics are absolutely no problem when being cut at wood cutting speeds. I also use a rather larger blade because most of my wood cutting is from 5/8" to 3/4" thick.

 

[Berta]

Don't forget coins.

Coins are metal. The necklace in the photo is a 50 cent piece. A coin.

 

[Berta]

This made me re-think plexiglass (acrylic) cutting. My scroll saw is generally set up for wood cutting. When I try to cut acrylic the plastic heats and seals right behind the blade. I do know that a lot of modern scroll saws run the blade very slowly. Maybe this is the ticket to successful acrylic cutting. Oddly, Lexan type plastics are absolutely no problem when being cut at wood cutting speeds. I also use a rather larger blade because most of my wood cutting is from 5/8" to 3/4" thick.

I attached the plastic to a piece of plywood. Ended up with 2 angels, one plastic, one wood.

 

[Martin Roper]

Hmmnnn...

I need to make some cuts on a piece of aluminum for a jig. I was thinking band saw, but the scroll saw makes much more sense. Better to risk dulling a disposable blade.

 

[ScottM]

Hmmnnn...

I need to make some cuts on a piece of aluminum for a jig. I was thinking band saw, but the scroll saw makes much more sense. Better to risk dulling a disposable blade.

For real thin metals it is best to sandwich it between two pieces of thin wood (1/8" or 1/4").

 

[Martin Roper]

For real thin metals it is best to sandwich it between two pieces of thin wood (1/8" or 1/4").

It's going to be about 1/8" thick, the width of my table saw blade. It's going to be an indexing tab for a box joint jig. The hard part is getting exactly 1/8". I might have to use epoxy or CA glue to laminate a couple bits together and if it's too thick, sand it back down to an eighth.

 

[Berta]

I sandwich most things between 1/8” plywood. To be sure where the center of the piece and pattern line up, I put a piece of blue tape on the bottom layer, mark a center line, use double stick tape to place the workpiece centered, use whatever indexing you need. Tape the top piece down securely, then apply the pattern. Drill a starter hole. Then you have control.

 

[ScottM]

It's going to be about 1/8" thick, the width of my table saw blade. It's going to be an indexing tab for a box joint jig. The hard part is getting exactly 1/8". I might have to use epoxy or CA glue to laminate a couple bits together and if it's too thick, sand it back down to an eighth.

Pike Jeweler's scroll saw blades are the best I found for cutting metal.

 

[bob vaughan]

Berta, thanks for starting this thread. For me, its been a game changer in terms of cutting acrylics. Yesterday I needed to cut some 2mm thick acrylic disks. I cranked the scroll saw's speed down to as slow as it would go. There were no heating and melting problems at all. Its nice to learn a new method. I may start experimenting with other things at that slow speed. Actually the feed rate wasn't all that much slower as I expected. I can only hand feed so fast following a line within the limits of my ability.