Water Line issue for shop

[DSWalker]

I cut into a ¾ inch water supply line to the frostless hydrant in my barn so that I can add a ‘T’ fitting to run an additional line to a new enclosed room in my barn. I’ve done a good bit of this type plumbing work around the farm, so this isn’t anything new for me, but I'm certainly not a professional. I got a plastic grey connector fitting and I am using the stainless steel ‘screw type’ clamps. I heated the hose up a little and the connector slid in very easy and put everything back together. I feel like the connection was a little 'too easy', but all materials are confirmed to be 3/4".

I waited 15-20 minutes before turning the water back on and every single one of them is leaking. This is a first for me. Never had leaking connections before. I did use my impact drill to tighten them up and I think this is the issue. I think a couple (or all) of them may have stripped. I’m guessing this is the issue. Is this a hand tighten only job? I can’t recall if I ever used the drill before or not when tightening the clamps. UGGH. Not a good time to have exposed water lines. I have everything all covered up in horsie blankets and saddle pads but my daughter says the horses need their blankies tonight with temps in the low 20’s. lol

Suggestions??

 

[Jack A.]

What type of pipe is this? Pictures might help.

 

[DSWalker]

What type of pipe is this? Pictures might help.

160psi black poly. I'll see about getting a couple pics later when I go to the barn.

 

[Oka]

Is it the thin poly or the heavier duty type. ? If the connection is too damaged you may have to cut a section out and splice in.

You can check the connection with a heavy wire gauge clamp. Because they are thinner than the flat hose clamps it can exact a tighter torque on the connection.

 

[DSWalker]

What type of pipe is this? Pictures might help.

Photo attached. Didn't take time to wipe them down for a better view.

160 psi rated black poly. The boards will be removed. Original location of hydrant was in the area that concrete was to be poured. Boards were to temporarily hold dirt in place for the concrete pour.

 

[Oka]

YEah, Farm pipe what my dad used to call it. You can test this method and see if this works for you. Get boiling water, the fitting and a piece of pipe.

Get Hot tap water. Take fitting and put it in the hot tap water, then take the pipe end and put it in the boiling water , once it if softened then take the fitting and insert into the pipe, you can lube it with vegetable oil if desired. Finally then put the hose clamp, but get the husky ones from a plumbing store, they are more robust and attach and screw down, you will see the pipe conform to the the fitting ridges, it will not leak. In the winter that is how we fixed the leaking pipes

 

[chris_goris]

It looks like the path of your line from above is probably stressing the other connections. See if you can mechanically fasten it to something above to take the stresses off the joints.

 

[ssmith]

Just a wild guess - the plastic union (and pipe) are getting deformed by a far stronger metal clamp, particularly if you apply a lot of torque tightening the clamp.

Can you use metal fittings instead?

 

[tvrgeek]

I would not trust the plastic T. Just looked at my incoming water line and it has a crimped brass fitting.

 

[DSWalker]

It looks like the path of your line from above is probably stressing the other connections. See if you can mechanically fasten it to something above to take the stresses off the joints.

A 90 degree fitting may work better here. Good catch.

 

[ChemE75]

Over tightening the clamps can crack or deform the plastic fitting hose barb portion. Try hand tightening only. I’ve only used minimal heat to soften the poly pipe and hand tighten the clamps. If in doubt or for hard to access fittings, I’d use two clamps. If you can find them, try brass fittings. As mentioned, pipe support to take weight off fittings is a good idea.

 

[Gotcha6]

I have better success with sealing by using a metal fitting and a plastic dead blow hammer or a wood block and steel hammer to drive into the pipe cold. Sometimes the problem is overheating the pipe which softens too much and stretches, not taking a bite into the barbs on the fitting.

 

[ChemE75]

I have better success with sealing by using a metal fitting and a plastic dead blow hammer or a wood block and steel hammer to drive into the pipe cold. Sometimes the problem is overheating the pipe which softens too much and stretches, not taking a bite into the barbs on the fitting.

Agree, I can attest to the ease of overheating - did that once, had to cut off pipe since it deformed too much.