Walnut Slab

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Wyatt Co.

New User
Bill
Ok, so you'll start that new discussion thread with the tangential content that's irrelevant to the original question from the OP? Just my opinion too!

And you get the pass because you're a monetary contributor.

How much do I need to contribute to be ash too?
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
Any chance that Epifanes has been updated over the last 20 years?

I know my softdrinks were, and according to the commercials, my laundry detergents get updated every episode of my favorite shows.

Yea but you have to wait 20 years to see if its true.

The Epifanes I use on boat hulls that look great years later with heavy use is more meaningful to me than some sales pitch about something I have not tried. Now Scott may be using this GF stuff and that's important to know. Next thing is how long ago to see if it lasts.

I don't mean to sound like a stick in the mud but many of us went thru the polyurethane or its worthless years. Now 15 years later you can't get the stuff off and people are rethinking this glue based varnish.

Something to consider I guess
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
+1 on iron legs. I would go with black square tubing.

Issue with slabs is movement/cracking/cupping/warping/twisting -- EVEN WITH FINISH ON ALL SIDES. Nuff said, be careful how you attach legs allow LOTS of room for movement. A slab this wide could fluctuate as much as 1" seasonally if left outside any restriction will cause cupping.

Whatever you do, don't allow direct sunlight it may turn out to be a twisted mess.

No expert on finishes, but I like the epoxy idea.

No matter what you do, there may be issues keeping this slab outdoors.
 

Bugle

Preston
Corporate Member
+1 on iron legs. I would go with black square tubing.

Issue with slabs is movement/cracking/cupping/warping/twisting -- EVEN WITH FINISH ON ALL SIDES. Nuff said, be careful how you attach legs allow LOTS of room for movement. A slab this wide could fluctuate as much as 1" seasonally if left outside any restriction will cause cupping.

Whatever you do, don't allow direct sunlight it may turn out to be a twisted mess.

No expert on finishes, but I like the epoxy idea.

No matter what you do, there may be issues keeping this slab outdoors.

As I understand it, cupping/warping is caused in part by changing moisture content in the wood. Wouldn't the finishes mentioned here waterproof it enough to not allow a change in MC (it's currently between 5 and 6 percent), especially since it will not be exposed to direct sunlight?
 

Bugle

Preston
Corporate Member
If it's destiny is a bar top, why not give it a bar top finish? Or is that to much common sense?

http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/epoxy/

This was actually my first thought. I went to the link you provided (thanks!) and chatted with a sales rep. I explained what I would use their product for and here is his reply:

"Epoxy by nature is not UV protected and if used outdoors, it can yellow over time in direct sunlight. We have customers that have used it outdoors with indirect sunlight and they report back that works fine. Also, extreme temperatures can effect the epoxy as it is a plastic when it hardens so it is possible that it can warp or crack in extreme heat or cold climates. You can put a high-gloss UV Urethane or Varnish over the top of the epoxy once it is cured. We recommend spraying it on as it takes an artist’s touch to put it on smooth with a brush. We do not recommend one specific product over another as our epoxy is mean to be a standalone product. This information is solely for you to "use at your own risk" meaning we have not tested every product on the market to know how well they will work together with our epoxy. I would recommend sealing your surface with another product prior to the epoxy. The epoxy is only for the top surface and cannot be used on the bottom. You would need to do an oil based polyurethane or water based stain."
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
As I understand it, cupping/warping is caused in part by changing moisture content in the wood. Wouldn't the finishes mentioned here waterproof it enough to not allow a change in MC (it's currently between 5 and 6 percent), especially since it will not be exposed to direct sunlight?
No. Finish will not prevent movement.
 

Bugle

Preston
Corporate Member
Update: Thanks for all the good advice. Going with Epifanes for the finish. Great find at the Raleigh flea market for the base. I'll repaint it black, but keep the medallion the""aged brass" color:

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gmakra

New User
George
I wont comment on the type of finish but I like old barn wood framing timbers made into a trestle table with a slabtop.
 

Bugle

Preston
Corporate Member
Walnut slab bar is done! Used Epifanes for the finish (thanks danmart77 for all the info). Using the manufacturer's recommendations, the finishing process took 2 weeks (7 coats per side)...but it turned out great.

I cleaned, sanded, painted the legs. Since the screened porch isn't level (so water doesn't stand), I used screw-in t-nuts and leveling legs to get it level.

I also found some bar stool bottoms online that will match the metal stand. I have some 5/4 walnut boards with live edges that I will use to make the stool seats...just have to decide on design/shape.

All in all, a fun project.

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