Walnut Finishing Problem...

[cpowell]

I assembled a floor lamp in walnut a few days ago. Walnut was KD, steamed. 2 Coats of clear Watco Danish oil, lightly sanded with 320 grit between.

I am leaving for a business trip tomorrow and decided the fastest approach to get it into the living room today (which would make LOML happy) would be to apply Johnson's paste wax until I get a light sheen.

I can't seem to get any shine after three coats. What have I done wrong. Now, I'm wondering if I've screwed it up. It doesn't look terrible but the exterior is very flat looking, especially the base.

I have been rubbing the wax in, waiting a few minutes then following with a clean cloth. Do I need to wait longer? More coats?

I'm beginning to think the problem is that either the grain is too open for this approach or I should have waited a few days for the oil to dry a little bit more, although it felt very dry to my hand. It has been drying for two days, the last 24 hours in the house.

Chuck

 

[michaelgarner]

well friend time wasnt on your side, the oil takes some time,,and its not the best to try and polish up after it is dry, my two cents

 

[cpowell]

I've put on an addl coat since posting and most of the lamp is starting to take on a satin sheen now.

I've used BLO and Dansih oil quite a lot but this is the first time I tried waxing atop the finish. Guess next time I'll be more patient. I believe it's gonna look okay but it has been a heckuva lotta work to get there.

If that was a genie lamp I'd have a million wishes by now!! :lol: :lol:

Chuck

 

[Travis Porter]

I think you are supposed to wait a week or at least until you smell nothing anymore.

 

[JohnsonMBrandon]

So what was the general consensus of the problem here? Anyone know? I would be intersted to know, because it sounds like something a lot of people would be tempted to do much of the time? Did the oil just need more "dry time" before trying put wax on it?

 

[michaelgarner]

in my experiance you need more time for the oil to dry,,I have never had much luck using a past wax over oil. it will work it just takes lots of applications. I normally would use shellac then use an automotive wax to really really shine it up. I have a buddy that is a turner and he uses automotive clear coat for the top of his tables,,lookes like deep water, I know its not traditional, but when the client wants that look you give it to them. be blessed friends

 

[cpowell]

I had read about the approach online. I believe I should have simply sanded and applied a final coat of danish oil before going on my trip then planned on wax a week later.

My searches at various WW sites indicated Michael's approach is the most common. I will certainly keep that in mind when I do the walnut dining table!!

I'll try to add coats of wax today. I'll post pics when it looks close to what I want.

FWIW the lamp really looks pretty good. LOML is very happy with it...or so she says!! :lol: :lol:

Chuck

 

[William Bender]

If you are using something like Briwax or anything that goes on top of watco, which is a great coating, you need to allow up to 2-3 weeks of drying. If you do not and you seal it you will have a dull finish forever. You can call the Briwax people, there customer service department is easy to get ahold of and very knowledgable about watco since they are used together often. You can however if you need to cheat a little, watco for color and then laquer and then use wax to shine and add even more depth. You can get away with it but you are not going to have the best end product. So what you might want to do if strip any wax off, put a coat of watco on and let it sit in an open area while you go on vacation. Even if it is dry to touch it is not cured and will react adversly, finish sheen wise. Been there made that mistake :eusa_shhh But enough clear Briwax and tlc will save a project if you don't have the time. Up to you though

William

 

[4yanks]

I think the big problem may be the wax you are using. It is true that you should wait a week or two before waxing, but I have done it in less several times without "significant" problems. Johnson's paste wax is great for protecting tools surfaces. However, it is too soft to buff out well. I would recommend you purchase wax made for finishing furniture. Some examples are Briwax (already mentioned), Liberon, Moser's, even Minwax makes one that is often available at home centers. Hope this helps.