Walnut Coffee table w/pic / finish question

[owen299]

I have completed a coffee table for a family hunting cabin in the Mts.
I thought it would be easier to finish before attaching to the trestle base.
I 'm wondering:eusa_thin if a simple finish of several applications of Danish oil and then some wipe on poly (satin) would stand up and still look natural?

 

[DaveO]

Danish Oil is basically a wipe on varnish. You can make your own by combining 1 part MS, 1 part BLO, and 1 part gloss polyurethane. It is a complete finish in itself. You can either use it or just a coat of BLO, and many coats of wipe on Polyurethane. But for a coffee table I might consider either Waterlox Original sealer/finish, as the amber color really adds a lot to the Walnut and it is easily repairable. Or Behlens Rock Hard Table Varnish, for the same reasons as above, plus it is a very tough finish that can take the abuse a coffee table might see.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[jeff...]

nice table there - is that steamed walnut I see?

 

[jeff...]

Danish Oil is basically a wipe on varnish. You can make your own by combining 1 part MS, 1 part BLO, and 1 part gloss polyurethane. It is a complete finish in itself. You can either use it or just a coat of BLO, and many coats of wipe on Polyurethane. But for a coffee table I might consider either Waterlox Original sealer/finish, as the amber color really adds a lot to the Walnut and it is easily repairable. Or Behlens Rock Hard Table Varnish, for the same reasons as above, plus it is a very tough finish that can take the abuse a coffee table might see.
MTCW,
Dave

Dave I put that Sycamore slab coffee table that you joined in storage a few weeks ago - If you remember I sprayed it clear polycrylic? It's been in service for over a year and didn't see one scratch on it. - Just a thought... For this walnut table I think I would go with a dark toner then something clear again just a thought.

 

[DaveO]

I just used General Finishes Polyacrylic for the first time, and I am quite impressed with it. Really does a good job if you don't want to impart any additional color to the piece. Personally I think an oil based finish really helps to warm up Walnut. But on a light colored wood, I would choose the water-based.
Dave

 

[Howard Acheson]

I may be raining on your parade but it looks like you have a solid wood frame around a solid wood panel and the frame appears to be glued to the end grain at both ends. If so, you are headed for trouble. The solid wood inside panel will want to expand and contract with changes in relative humidity. The cross grain end strips will want to impede that movement. The result is that something will have to give. Either the glue line will fail, the panel will develop a split or you will get some severe warping.

Solid wood panels must have ends like breadboard ends which allow the panel to freely expand and contract.

As to a finish, if you want a "natural" finish, the traditional finish for walnut is an oil. It will leave a soft glow and leave the "look and feel" of the wood. That being the case, I would use the oil/varnish mixture described above. Unless the table will get lots of abuse, an oil/varnish finish is perfect.

 

[owen299]

I clipped the solid end peice off without any problem I had plenty of length without looking stubby. That should take care of the end grain problem (thanks for the headsup :icon_thum Howard) The table is meant for a seasonal use home/cabin so I don't see alot of hard use or mistreatmet in its future. I think a oil finish should do it Thanks for everyones 2 cents