Veritas Mark II problem

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Man with many vises
User
Recently went to hone my beloved 1-1/4” paring chisel and the chisel slipped in the honing guide.
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I tried crubber, sandpaper, and such under the clamp to little avail.
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Then I happened to notice that the clamp bar was bowed.
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Fixed that with help from my tall vise. I over straightened just a tad and it holds pretty well now.
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Then I saw another problem. The itty bitty roller retaining rings broke years ago and enough swarf has entered the brass roller hole so that it is very sloppy (like nearly 1/16” radially) on its axle now. I made a short video but it won’t load here. Need to order a replacement roller, et.al. from Lee Valley.
 
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Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Let us know how the ordering of parts from Lee Valley works out. Sometimes manufacturers don't want to supply replacement parts, but if they do it's great.

Roy G
 

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Man with many vises
User
Let us know how the ordering of parts from Lee Valley works out. Sometimes manufacturers don't want to supply replacement parts, but if they do it's great.

Roy G
Just got a call from Lee Valley (4:50 PM on a Sat.) say the parts for my honing guide were ready for shipment. It took a few days since two depts. were involved, but I got the parts that I needed.
 

bainin

bainin
Senior User
Great find- Im gonna have to check mine as it has slipped once or twice in the past. I assumed it was that I failed to tighten the clamp sufficiently but maybe not !
 

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Man with many vises
User
Great find- Im gonna have to check mine as it has slipped once or twice in the past. I assumed it was that I failed to tighten the clamp sufficiently but maybe not !
If you overtighten like I did, the clamp bar bends.
 

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Man with many vises
User
Took a while but the repair parts arrived sometime last night.
View attachment 207698
Installing the repair parts is a good snowy day task. The roller was a bit tricky to assemble since no instructions were included. Glad that I had the cambered roller to refer to.
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This time I will pay attention to the instructions that recommended rinsing and oiling after use.
 

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Man with many vises
User
Sandpaper keeps clamped wood from moving. Rubber keeps clamped metal from moving.

Charley
I did try some rubber but that was before I realized that the clamp was bowed. If I have more trouble I’ll do rubber again. Good tips to remember.
 

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Man with many vises
User
I have made some progress against this problem with chisels twisting in my Veritas Mark II. First, I asked Dr. Google and many other users have had this problem. The general recommendation was to ensure that the clamp bar was parallel with the bed. I had not appreciated how absolutely critical this is.

First, it is easier to understand this with your chisel held like this in a vise.
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Looking just at the blade, I thought that I had the clamp bar parallel. When I took this picture, I realized that it was not.
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Rule #1, 2, and 3: look at the clamp bar ends to judge parallelism.
If the clamp bar is not exactly parallel to the bed, then the bar just has point contact at an edge of the blade rather than line contact across the blade width.
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I did make one other modification of the “ might help, can’t hurt” ilk. The bed has two recesses and I filled them with a short piece of auto vacuum hose split lengthwise.
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The rubber bulging should mean that it is helping at least some to help reduce twisting.
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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Corporate Member
Coleman kindly allowed me to return mine.
I got it and realized it was NOT a good choice for tapered socket chisels... (the eclipse version is much better, but still requires modification)

and some of the wider plane blades (#7 and #8) seem to be pushing th limits of the MarkII
 

Trey1984

Trey
User
Installing the repair parts is a good snowy day task. The roller was a bit tricky to assemble since no instructions were included. Glad that I had the cambered roller to refer to.
View attachment 207795

This time I will pay attention to the instructions that recommended rinsing and oiling after use.
Just be sure to keep check while sharpening because I almost coated my waterstone with 3n1 oil. Maybe put to much and I probably need to come up with better way of getting in there but till figure it out I jyst keep wiping off as I sharpen.
 

Rob01

New User
Robert
I've experienced the same problem of slipping. Google gave me the same answer as the OP. You must tighten the cross bar evenly to get the best purchase on the chisel.

FYI - I took the jig apart for cleaning as recommended in the manual. Be careful reinstalling the brass nuts for the cross bar. There are tiny lips cast into the jig that run in a groove on the brass nuts to capture them. The purpose is to keep the clamping cross bar from closing under their own weight. Being captured, the cross bar will remain at the height determined by the brass nut. This makes it easier to insert a blade because the gap between the clamping cross bar stays open when you flip the jig over to insert your blade. It's much harder to describe than I thought.

What I did was just reinsert the studs of the clamping cross bar back into the jig and tighten down the brass nuts. That's when I heard and felt the lips crack and bend. One side was OK when I bent the lip back up but the other side, the lip broke off. It doesn't effect anything overall but just makes inserting your blade into the jig a little more tedious.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Over tightening and not even seems to be a common issue with these. Snug is all they need. So far, I have had no difficulty, but I only use it for course bevel establishment. I have moved on to hand for the rest. I do think the cap should be stronger.

I have learned,
Bench and paring chisels don't need to be square. Rebate irons do. Router irons do. Plane irons close at least.
 

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