Upgrade + Downgrade = Same, But Better

[CommGuy107]

Got the new Rikon 10-325 14" Bandsaw assembled and setup (thanks to some helpful tips on NCWW).
The electrician is coming tomorrow to inspect the wiring to see if it's adequate for 20-amps, and install a separate 20-amp run if it's not.
The Shopsmith (one of them) is cleaned, tuned and prepped for a buyer.
When it's all said and done, I get a great bandsaw upgrade, some extra space, and it's going to cost next to nothing out-of-pocket. Nice.

 

[Charlie]

You will love the new saw. If you ever need blade guide bearings, they are 608ZZ (unless they have changed since I purchased my saw). Inline skate wheels, which I use on my lathe steady rest, use the same bearing. Get them at Amazon, pack of 10 for 5-6 bucks.

 

[ehpoole]

Dan, the wiring will be adequate for 20A if the wiring is #12 copper. If #14 copper, or if the wiring is aluminum, then the circuit is 15A only.

However, your new 1-1/2HP bandsaw should be fine on a 15A circuit so long as it is the only device on that circuit (with no other loads, such as lighting or a vacuum, etc.) -- I would expect the motor's runtime load to be 12-15A, which is ok for a 15A circuit provided it is the only load when running, worst case would be a possible breaker trip if you overloaded the bandsaw during very heavy resawing. If you use an extension cord with this bandsaw you will want to use heavy duty #12awg cord if it is more than about 15ft or #14awg, or heavier, if shorter.

 

[CommGuy107]

You will love the new saw. If you ever need blade guide bearings, they are 608ZZ (unless they have changed since I purchased my saw). Inline skate wheels, which I use on my lathe steady rest, use the same bearing. Get them at Amazon, pack of 10 for 5-6 bucks.

Good stuff, Charlie. I'll have to compare the part number...I actually have some of those bearings left from when I built some camera dollies using inline skate wheels.

 

[CommGuy107]

Dan, the wiring will be adequate for 20A if the wiring is #12 copper. If #14 copper, or if the wiring is aluminum, then the circuit is 15A only.

However, your new 1-1/2HP bandsaw should be fine on a 15A circuit so long as it is the only device on that circuit (with no other loads, such as lighting or a vacuum, etc.) -- I would expect the motor's runtime load to be 12-15A, which is ok for a 15A circuit provided it is the only load when running, worst case would be a possible breaker trip if you overloaded the bandsaw during very heavy resawing. If you use an extension cord with this bandsaw you will want to use heavy duty #12awg cord if it is more than about 15ft or #14awg, or heavier, if shorter.

Thanks, Ethan. I was able to run the saw with no problem or even the slightest dimming of the lights on a 15A circuit, but my dust collector is on the same circuit. I'm pretty sure we ran copper wire when we built the shop, but I'd rather had them come check, and I'm willing to run an additional line if needed.

 

[ehpoole]

Thanks, Ethan. I was able to run the saw with no problem or even the slightest dimming of the lights on a 15A circuit, but my dust collector is on the same circuit. I'm pretty sure we ran copper wire when we built the shop, but I'd rather had them come check, and I'm willing to run an additional line if needed.

A DC running on the same circuit is really too great a load for one circuit to be handling safely and reliably, it is generally best for DCs to have their own circuit altogether as they are typically run concurrently with other equipment.

Ideally, your shop lighting should not be on the same circuit as any of your power tools (preferably a dedicated lighting circuit), the reasoning being that if you trip a breaker while operating a dangerous tool you can find yourself in the dark (and not necessarily aware of where the dangerous bits are relative to you).

 

[Ken Massingale]

You can also use Cool Blocks.

 

[red]

I use the cool blocks. Nice stuff.

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