TS Dust Collection Help
- Thread starter JackLeg
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Speaking of DC. I am trying to narrow down my selection for a DC. I was looking at the Delta 50-760, but have been intrigued with the HF setup that I would replace the filter with the Wynn model. (after reading from our local experts I would also add a separator to whichever one I finally get). Any thoughts ?
It depends on whether you plan to run it as a portable unit, or if you want to add some duct work, and what kind of equipment you have. A drum sander requires much more suction than a jointer. Duct work for an 800sq.ft. shop requires more oomph than for a 400sq.ft. shop
For the money, you can't beat the HF / Wynn filter combo - $300 to go. That's what I have. I ran my first board through my planer, saw the chips come out, and bought this thing the next day. I added the filter later. It's nice when you can do upgrades in stages. It gets most of the chips and dust, but I'm still doing some cleanup with the shop vac afterwards.
For $500, you can have the Grizzly G0548 delivered, but it requires 220V. It has a canister, with flapper cleaner. Real 2HP, not Harbor Freight 2HP.
The Delta is a decent unit, it has a little more power than the HF. But, I don't like bags. They get dirty real quick, restricting airflow. You can wash them, but it's not pleasant and what are you going to do while it's drying? A canister is the way to go. Adding a canister to the Delta brings you close in price to the Grizzly or JET.
Oh, and you're going to want to get a remote. Those are $40 - $50. You can delay the purchase, but eventually, you're going to want one
For the money, you can't beat the HF / Wynn filter combo - $300 to go. That's what I have. I ran my first board through my planer, saw the chips come out, and bought this thing the next day. I added the filter later. It's nice when you can do upgrades in stages. It gets most of the chips and dust, but I'm still doing some cleanup with the shop vac afterwards.
For $500, you can have the Grizzly G0548 delivered, but it requires 220V. It has a canister, with flapper cleaner. Real 2HP, not Harbor Freight 2HP.
The Delta is a decent unit, it has a little more power than the HF. But, I don't like bags. They get dirty real quick, restricting airflow. You can wash them, but it's not pleasant and what are you going to do while it's drying? A canister is the way to go. Adding a canister to the Delta brings you close in price to the Grizzly or JET.
Oh, and you're going to want to get a remote. Those are $40 - $50. You can delay the purchase, but eventually, you're going to want one
I thought about getting one of those for my Felder. How do you like it? How did you suspend it?
I got a question... Where is the dust coming from?
The teeth at the back of the blade or the teeth at the front of the blade?
If the back teeth are producing the dust on there way through the open kerf then they must be cutting wood, and if they are cutting it seems like the workpiece would be lifting. If the front teeth are producing the dust as they cut then some of the chips and dust must be remaining in the blade gullets all the way past the bottom of the blade arc and then up through the rear kerf and being released at the top of the arc.
I would think a simple test could be run by placing a compressed air nozzle in the cabinet and blowing a jet of air perpendicular to the blade in order to blow the dust from the gullets.
If this doesn't change the dust amount then it might be evidence the dust is being produced by the rear teeth as they pass the open kerf.
I'm curious.
The teeth at the back of the blade or the teeth at the front of the blade?
If the back teeth are producing the dust on there way through the open kerf then they must be cutting wood, and if they are cutting it seems like the workpiece would be lifting. If the front teeth are producing the dust as they cut then some of the chips and dust must be remaining in the blade gullets all the way past the bottom of the blade arc and then up through the rear kerf and being released at the top of the arc.
I would think a simple test could be run by placing a compressed air nozzle in the cabinet and blowing a jet of air perpendicular to the blade in order to blow the dust from the gullets.
If this doesn't change the dust amount then it might be evidence the dust is being produced by the rear teeth as they pass the open kerf.
I'm curious.
I think some of the topside dust is coming from the face of the teeth, but most is likely from the gullets. If if was coming from the board/edges of the kerf, you would get topside tearout. Compressed air blowing on the blade below the table might be a solution that would obviate the need for an over-the-blade dust pickup. It would likely take a lot of air. Who wants to do the experiment?
I have been following Alan's TS dust collection thread and was thinking along these lines. I have a TS that I will be working on shortly and intend to experiment with under table air jet. I intend to use the "air knife" concept whenever possible on all my machines. With pressure pushing dust towards whatever collection point I have dust pickup should be enhanced. I will post pics/ results when I have them :wsmile:
PS - Like Alan, I am a "multi-media" tinkerer so steel, aluminum, Lexan and whatever else works are utilized in my projects :wwink:
PS - Like Alan, I am a "multi-media" tinkerer so steel, aluminum, Lexan and whatever else works are utilized in my projects :wwink:
M
McRabbet
Why push it with compressed air when your could pull it with a shroud around the blade below the table to pull the dust from the gullets on its first pass after to cut -- I suspect the force of cut moves the chips/duct into the gullet with the cutting action and then centrifugal force pushes it back out as it comes back around. The key to locating the shroud (aside from essential obstructions) is to determine where in the rotation those two forces are neutral or positive to rejecting the chips and into a DC shroud. Just a guess, but might help design it.
The best way to do it with the existing shroud/deflector, without-compressed air, might be to always use a zero clearance insert and to tightly seal the cabinet, except for one or two air inlets. This might be a little hard to do around the height and tilt adjustment wheels. The inlet pipes would be smaller than the DC outlet so the velocity is high, and be located somewhere very close to the point where the dust and chips are most easily separated from the blade/gullets, wherever that occurs. Plumb the DC pickup for suction at both the bottom of the cabinet ramp AND at a point near and behind where the blade is being hit with the incoming air.
Another idea is to design a blade shroud that completely encapsulates the entire blade below the table. You would need a flexible (soft) attachment from the trunnion to the underside of the top so that the blade and motor could go up and down, and tilt. Again, you would make it so the take-up air blows directly on the blade.
Another idea is to design a blade shroud that completely encapsulates the entire blade below the table. You would need a flexible (soft) attachment from the trunnion to the underside of the top so that the blade and motor could go up and down, and tilt. Again, you would make it so the take-up air blows directly on the blade.
I'm REALLY enjoying following all the "design" thought processes on this thread. :lightbulb:lightbulb:lightbulb
You guys are something! I'm looking forward to being the beneficiary of all this "armchair engineering" and brainstorming! :icon_thum:icon_thum
Thanks for ALL the input! Keep it coming!
:notworthy::notworthy:
You guys are something! I'm looking forward to being the beneficiary of all this "armchair engineering" and brainstorming! :icon_thum:icon_thum
Thanks for ALL the input! Keep it coming!
:notworthy::notworthy:
Good idea Alan,
What we might find is that flow across the blade is the best way to pipe a TS for DC. Might just have to put a port in the side cover on my uni and see.
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