I was using the belt sander Sunday and screwed up. I didn't realize it, but I was trying to sand 1/4" off of a board in a single pass with the platen in the thing. The belt got hot and it self destructed. The platen had a tear in it, but seemed ok, so I put it back in and a sanding we went.
Sorry, no pics, but I was having a lot of fun sending the stuff through to Doug Robinson and Shamrock. Otherwise, I was a bit tired and wasn't a lot of fun. My apologies to Doug and Mike on that.
Then it hit. The sander quit..... I tinkered around with it and finally got it going again, and a sanding we went.
Then it quit again..... We called it a day.
Of course, my first thoughts are the worst and most extreme. Phase converter is shot. Nope, it works all the other stuff.
Next thought - phase converter isn't big enough. Too much strain. Need a BIGGER PHASE CONVERTER. Reason I was thinking this was that maybe I was putting too much strain with a small converter and that it was causing the thermal overload to trip. The more I thought about it, the more I figured that was wrong. Start up is the biggest load and it had been starting......
I read the manual some. What a bunch of gibberish. For what this machine cost, I would grade the manual as "fair". It is thick, but it has a bunch of stuff about OSHA, laws, etc that really didn't do a lot for me. It did have a mediocre wiring diagram, and a below average parts breakdown. I have never seen pneumatics, electrical, and mechanical drawings laid out separately on a machine before.
After taking the electrical panel off the machine, I believe I have an electrical issue. The red light on a relay is why I believe this. Looking at the relays, there are 3 that are the same. I swap the one with the light on with one that the light isn't on, and the red light stays in the original relay slot.
This relay thingamajig is labeled right below it as RM. No where can I find RM in the electrical drawings. I do notice that the second relay thingamajig lights up when I open the door. Seems like a safety/sensor relay thing to me.
Since I think it is a safety, and looking at the drawings it appears initially to me that this is the belt tension sensor. This sensor/relay prevents the machine from starting if the belt is under tension.
The sensor is on the top and fits between a set of forks. Up it is closed, when it goes down it is tripped. Right below it is a pneumatic piston/cylinder that is really kind of neat. More on that later.
So I check this switch and it works and is triggering properly, so that one is out.
I see if the belts and the motor spin. This motor is HUGE.
I take the front off and try to spin the belt. I can, but it is a bit stiff.
I pull the platen back out, and oops...... The graphite on the platen is destroyed. Not good. I screw around and realize the contactor has a reset. It appears the contactor was tripping due to the platen being screwed up. I remove the platen, reset the contactor, red light goes away, and it runs!! Now I get to replace the graphite on the platen.....:BangHead:
More pics and details to follow.
Sorry, no pics, but I was having a lot of fun sending the stuff through to Doug Robinson and Shamrock. Otherwise, I was a bit tired and wasn't a lot of fun. My apologies to Doug and Mike on that.
Then it hit. The sander quit..... I tinkered around with it and finally got it going again, and a sanding we went.
Then it quit again..... We called it a day.
Of course, my first thoughts are the worst and most extreme. Phase converter is shot. Nope, it works all the other stuff.
Next thought - phase converter isn't big enough. Too much strain. Need a BIGGER PHASE CONVERTER. Reason I was thinking this was that maybe I was putting too much strain with a small converter and that it was causing the thermal overload to trip. The more I thought about it, the more I figured that was wrong. Start up is the biggest load and it had been starting......
I read the manual some. What a bunch of gibberish. For what this machine cost, I would grade the manual as "fair". It is thick, but it has a bunch of stuff about OSHA, laws, etc that really didn't do a lot for me. It did have a mediocre wiring diagram, and a below average parts breakdown. I have never seen pneumatics, electrical, and mechanical drawings laid out separately on a machine before.
After taking the electrical panel off the machine, I believe I have an electrical issue. The red light on a relay is why I believe this. Looking at the relays, there are 3 that are the same. I swap the one with the light on with one that the light isn't on, and the red light stays in the original relay slot.
This relay thingamajig is labeled right below it as RM. No where can I find RM in the electrical drawings. I do notice that the second relay thingamajig lights up when I open the door. Seems like a safety/sensor relay thing to me.
Since I think it is a safety, and looking at the drawings it appears initially to me that this is the belt tension sensor. This sensor/relay prevents the machine from starting if the belt is under tension.
The sensor is on the top and fits between a set of forks. Up it is closed, when it goes down it is tripped. Right below it is a pneumatic piston/cylinder that is really kind of neat. More on that later.
So I check this switch and it works and is triggering properly, so that one is out.
I see if the belts and the motor spin. This motor is HUGE.
I take the front off and try to spin the belt. I can, but it is a bit stiff.
I pull the platen back out, and oops...... The graphite on the platen is destroyed. Not good. I screw around and realize the contactor has a reset. It appears the contactor was tripping due to the platen being screwed up. I remove the platen, reset the contactor, red light goes away, and it runs!! Now I get to replace the graphite on the platen.....:BangHead:
More pics and details to follow.